which series?

[D.C. Benny]

Hello everyone. At some point would like to get a series, when my classic isn't breaking the bank, but don't know much about them. I have a few questions if anyone could shed some light.
1) I am almost 6 5'', which models have most legroom and can other models be slightly modified to fit tall folks, or is that a huge operation? I drove one a while back but could barely get my legs under the steering wheel.
2)Are there any years/models that parts are harder/easier to find?
3) aside from the usual rust, leaks etc, what red flags to look out for when buying and what are most expensive things to have done?
4) Are these less costly than classics to maintain since they have less electrics and seem all over simpler to work on?
5) What is one of these in good shape going for these days, average? I saw a series 3 for 7500 and the guy had like 16 grand in receipts, but it still needed a fair amount of tlc.
thanks in advance

[jimfoo]

Only thing you'd be able to get leg room in without a ton of work is a 5 door 109. All 88's are the same.

[zed]

Well.. I've just gone through a lot of the research you're looking for...
I am 6'4". I Have an 73 88" SIII. It is more roomy than my cj-5, I am not all that thin but I'm not fat and i'm not "into" the steering wheel, like the guy that bought my CJ was.
Lifting the foot off the clutch without hitting you leg on something is easy to get used to. I was plenty comfortable (operating the car) after about 30 min of stop and go driving. Its not luxury, but its doable. If you were planning to commute in it, it might get old. For tinkering or collecting.. having fun on the weekends.. it'll do. its not cramped width wise, compared to an old jeep.
Although the early series were shorter, I believe it is all in the front to accommodate the engine and in the bed.

I would venture a guess that the III is the easiest to find. 440k of them made, and most recent series model. But most of the parts are II and IIA so it works out great, as long as you don't mind the plastic dash and shiftable transmission.

Everyone warned me about spring perch rust and rear cross member rust. But you know about rust in british vehicles...
As with all old vehicles.. as you likely know.. hardened valve seats are nice. Almost all the parts are available (mirror mounts are the only NLA i found for the SIII)
I cant speak as to what's expensive or not. It all seems fairly cheap from what I've priced out. Very similar to shopping for a VW bug in my limited experience. Has its "normal" classic car stuff price on some rare things, but most is cheap as hell by today's standards.

The prices.. I paid $4500 for mine..not knowing that the throw out bearing was jammed in the fork (remember to put in the clutch to bearing clip) good frame.. bad paint, complete but not perfect. "everything works" condition. Its likely the only running Series on the island of Oahu and wasn't getting a premium price. I have the ad that the PO printed when he bought it, he only paid 5k for it with new paint in california. I saw on classic car trader that people had widely varying ideas of what they were worth. You probably saw the SIII that was overheating or something horrible for $12k. I would guess.. its a sellers market in the US due to rarity. That being said. The frames are only 1800 bucks.. if you find a rotted one.. might be cheap and worth it.

Others can speak to reliability and upkeep. I've only had mine a couple weeks and only plan on using it to keep me busy and putt around on weekends.

[pickuprover]

My suggestion, find your local club, get out in any series trucks that you can find.... see which one appeals to you (88 or 109, series IIa or III, deisel or petrol......)

As for upkeep.... I used mine for 4 years as my daily driver in the construction industry. (always the one that had to jank out the other trucks when they got stuck in the new subdivisions before the roads were put in..) The costs really depend on you. I did all my own work (exept for shortblocking the engine when it needed a rebuild and one oil change when the temperatures were way too cold to consider crawling underneath it). My average monthly cost in repairs (not including labour) was well below what I am paying for my F150 on finance. I used to budget $200 a month for parts wether I needed them or not. At the end of the year, if there was money left over in the rover account (there was every year except the year of the engine rebuild wich also included a bunch of welding on the frame and a paint job) then an order for the usual spares was put through. I would say they are financially not that bad in maintenace assuming you can do all you own work. Once it needs to go to a mechanic (if you can find one that will work on it....) the cost obviously jumps very fast.

Oh and I am 6'1" and have a 109 3 door, I can handle the front seat, (have a honda civic highback seat for drivers side which puts me closer the the steering wheel by at least an inch and a half) but once again, get in some different ones for a bit of a drive if you can.

[D.C. Benny]

Guys. Thanks so much. Very helpful info. Seems like parts aren't going to be that hard to find, and for about 5-7k, there might be something out there that is pretty solid. I saw a series 3 parked on the street last night, rare sighting in New York. Very cool.

[pickuprover]

Where about in NY are you.. there is a 109 series III (1980) for sale in Pettawa in Ontario.

Not sure how much, but if is the one that I think it is, it might be worth a look at....

[zed]

Originally Posted by pickuprover

My average monthly cost in repairs (not including labour) was well below what I am paying for my F150 on finance. I used to budget $200 a month for parts wether I needed them or not. .

Wow .. 200 bucks a month?
Are they really that prone to breakage or are you just very conservative.
I would think that, on non rebuild years, you'd be looking at more like 2-500 a year minus consumables and labour.

[pickuprover]

Originally Posted by zed

Wow .. 200 bucks a month?
Are they really that prone to breakage or are you just very conservative.
I would think that, on non rebuild years, you'd be looking at more like 2-500 a year minus consumables and labour.

Averaged well over 50,000 km a year. It was nothing to be driving an hour and a half each way to a job site everyday. Also being a daily driver (and only vehicle in the drive which had to always be up and running), when I did something, I made sure that I did not have to do it again. (ie if I had the stub axle off, then everything up to that point was replaced). It has been a bit of a rolling rebuild. That and the PO may not have been that good on repairing. Basically all that is left is the front axle and the frame to be done (the frame is stopping me from driving it as a daily driver). As well I ended up with a spare carb, distributer, starter, front diff, transfercase, hydralic brake system, hydralic clutch sytem rebuild and ready to go, just pull the old off, bolt the rebuilt on and away I go.

[zed]

so a combination of things.

Yea... POs are a bitch...

[D.C. Benny]

Hey Pickuprover. I'm in Brooklyn. Not too well versed on the importation process. Probably going to keep an eye out for something semi-local to appear, but thanks for the heads up. Seems like these can be semi-affordable if kept up.

[pickuprover]

Originally Posted by zed

so a combination of things.

Yea... POs are a bitch...

Yep, they can be.. but on the other hand, it has given me a chance to have learned a lot about these trucks. The biggest factor was the number of miles I put on it. It never had a chance to sit for very long, and here in Southwestern Ontario if you are not doing a good chunk more than the speed limit, then you have a huge line of traffic pushing you. I ran the truck at it's upper limits, so created more work for myself. But it is a great truck, can't wait to get the time to put it back on the road.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by D.C. Benny

Hello everyone. At some point would like to get a series, when my classic isn't breaking the bank, but don't know much about them. I have a few questions if anyone could shed some light.
1) I am almost 6 5'', which models have most legroom and can other models be slightly modified to fit tall folks, or is that a huge operation? I drove one a while back but could barely get my legs under the steering wheel.
2)Are there any years/models that parts are harder/easier to find?
3) aside from the usual rust, leaks etc, what red flags to look out for when buying and what are most expensive things to have done?
4) Are these less costly than classics to maintain since they have less electrics and seem all over simpler to work on?
5) What is one of these in good shape going for these days, average? I saw a series 3 for 7500 and the guy had like 16 grand in receipts, but it still needed a fair amount of tlc.
thanks in advance

You haven't really said what you want it for. Is it just that it looks cool and you want to park it out the front.
If it is the simplisticity of the vehicle that attracts you, why not look at a 1986 or earlier classic. It will be a lot more reliable, driveable, comfortable, and a hell of a lot more capable off-road.

[zed]

He said he wants a series when his CLASSIC is done breaking..

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by zed

He said he wants a series when his CLASSIC is done breaking..

I think the comment was that he wanted a less complicated vehicle so there is not as many things to go wrong.
If you like the series vehicles and you just want to own one, that is fine. However, if you want it for a specific purpose, then there is usually a better vehicle out there.

The one good thing about getting a long wheelbase series vehicle is that you can set it up to sleep comfortably in the back when your away on a trip.

I have spent too much time in and under series vehicles. That is why I own a early model Rangie. But I wanted something for off-road.

[zed]

I think he's looking to add to a collection of "classic" vehicles.

Yes.. most vehicles would be better for any job than a series rover. I can't think of a single area in which the series rover could out perform another comparable style modern fuel injected truck, for the same price. Well.. it is easier on which to work than some more complex and compact vehicles. But they need much less work.. so it evens out.

But.. its a labour of love. Something to do on the weekends.

Oh.. water damage.. the Rover interior doesn't really get damaged by mud and water. Aesthetic durability.