Series 3 clutch master cyl replacement - Land Rovers Only

smackeyboy · 06-30-2006, 04:38 PM

Is it true the left fender must come off? This is a 1973 NAS 88 version. I've read fender must come off and heard it doesn't. Anyone done this?

Thanks,
Doug

pickuprover · 06-30-2006, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackeyboy

Is it true the left fender must come off? This is a 1973 NAS 88 version. I've read fender must come off and heard it doesn't. Anyone done this?

Thanks,
Doug

I believe it does (I know the danish spec 109 does..) but since the fenders are so eay to take off why would you not?

smackeyboy · 06-30-2006, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pickuprover

I believe it does (I know the danish spec 109 does..) but since the fenders are so eay to take off why would you not?

Very new to Series ownership. How easy is it to remove the fender? If it's that easy I'm up for doing the master, slave and the flex line. Let's get it all done in one shot..... All parts are on hand.

Thanks again,
Doug

TerryS · 06-30-2006, 08:03 PM

There are two ways to change (or remove/rebuild/replace) the clutch master in a LHD rover. Actually three if you consider that many, too lacking in good skills, chopped a piece out of the back edge of the fender. My first 88 had a beutifully installed piano hinged piece. So much energy but not real smart.

The first method is to just unbolt the fender. There are four bolts holding it to the bulkhead, a couple holding the inner skirt to the frame, then the few holding the front inside edge to the breakfast panel.

The second method, a little less time consuming, is to unbolt the bolts which hold the pedal box to the bulkeand. I think there are 6 3/8". Then you can tilt the pedal box on an angle to get the two bolts holding the MC to the pedal box, and unscrew the plunger shaft from the cross pin on the pedal.

I've done it both ways. Neither is easier than the other. The reason I got to doing it without removing the fender, is that I also have a Defender 110, and removing their front fenders is a major pain, what with the roll cage and inner cage supports.

s3landy · 07-01-2006, 04:18 AM

Unbolt the brake master cylinder from the vacuum assist and pull gently out of the way.Remove the vacuum assist separtely and then the brake pedal housing.This makes a lot of room to get the clutch m/c out.

Mike

Buckle · 07-07-2006, 03:05 PM

Well, thats what you get for driving on the wrong side of the road

06-30-2006, 04:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
smackeyboy Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 35 Gallery: 0	Series 3 clutch master cyl replacement Is it true the left fender must come off? This is a 1973 NAS 88 version. I've read fender must come off and heard it doesn't. Anyone done this? Thanks, Doug

07-07-2006, 03:05 PM	#6 (permalink)
Buckle Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Salisbury, England Posts: 39 Gallery: 0	Well, thats what you get for driving on the wrong side of the road __________________ Buckle `66 Light Weight

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum Advertisement

06-30-2006, 08:03 PM	#4 (permalink)
TerryS Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life. Posts: 2,062 Gallery: 0	There are two ways to change (or remove/rebuild/replace) the clutch master in a LHD rover. Actually three if you consider that many, too lacking in good skills, chopped a piece out of the back edge of the fender. My first 88 had a beutifully installed piano hinged piece. So much energy but not real smart. The first method is to just unbolt the fender. There are four bolts holding it to the bulkhead, a couple holding the inner skirt to the frame, then the few holding the front inside edge to the breakfast panel. The second method, a little less time consuming, is to unbolt the bolts which hold the pedal box to the bulkeand. I think there are 6 3/8". Then you can tilt the pedal box on an angle to get the two bolts holding the MC to the pedal box, and unscrew the plunger shaft from the cross pin on the pedal. I've done it both ways. Neither is easier than the other. The reason I got to doing it without removing the fender, is that I also have a Defender 110, and removing their front fenders is a major pain, what with the roll cage and inner cage supports.

07-01-2006, 04:18 AM	#5 (permalink)
s3landy Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: canada Posts: 41 Gallery: 0	Unbolt the brake master cylinder from the vacuum assist and pull gently out of the way.Remove the vacuum assist separtely and then the brake pedal housing.This makes a lot of room to get the clutch m/c out. Mike

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)