Series 3 overheating

[smackeyboy]

How can I check if the water pump is working? New to Series and need lots
o' help. Rover is dumping coolant into the overflow tank. I have a new
Thermostat and hoses and will replace on Tuesday. Just wanted to know how to
check operation of water pump. Thanks in advance.

Doug

[pickuprover]

I doubt it is your water pump.... when it is dumping coolant into the over flow (which is normal as it heats up, actually surprised it has an overflow...) where is the temp gauge? Usually on these trucks the major issues are a thermostat that is not working, or that the rad is clogged. First fit a proper thermostat, if that does not fix the problem, then fluch the rad... both directions to dislodge any scaling. A good rad flush chemical would not hurt either. As for testing the water pump, you can loosen the out flow pipe of the water pump (during warm up, never when it is hot.) , if the pump is working, then the coolant should pour out around the pipe. But as I say, usually the water pump does not fail, the only thing to go wrong with it is the bearings, and theywould let you know, either a loud squeal at the pump or the fan would not be turning due to them being seized.

[smackeyboy]

Temp gauge is not working. I have a new thermostat, hoses and some radiator flush. I will be tending to this in the morning. I also noticed today that the overflow bottle top is cracked. Thanks for the input. Any other suggestions? I'll be at it first thing Tuesday.

Thanks again,
Doug

[pickuprover]

Fix the temp gauge........ it is not worth the chance of overheating the engine. Check to make sure the wiring is okay, check current output at the sensor, then if neccessary, replace sensor and gauge, or rig up a new gauge in the cab. You do not want to overheat the engine, and the temp gauge is one of the few tools you have to tell you if there is something wrong with the engine (unless someone has rigged up an oil pressure gauge in place of the idiot light.) and if it is not working then how do you know that it is running hot... if you are guessing by the heat coming off the engine then you would be surprised... They feel a lot hotter then they are when you pop the hood.

[TerryS]

When you put the thermostat in, did you put it in right side up? Are you using the correct type for a series emgine, with the collar?

There is no "current" output from the temp sender. Check for 10 volts at the wire, disconnected from the sender. Look for a low resistance (100 ohms approx) at the cold sensor. Better yet, replace it with a mechanical temp guage.

As PUR says, give the system a good flushng with a commercial product, or take the rad to a shop and have it boiled and flushed. They use a high capacity pump with a vlave to rapidly reverse the flow, many tines. A swimming pool pump makes a good radiator flushing pump. Correct operating temp is 80C (176-180F)

[smackeyboy]

All,
Removed thermostat housing today to find no thermostat. The Radiator was all gunked up as well. Pulled the radiator for delivery to a shop for proper cleaning. I have a new thermostat and hoses for install when the radiator comes back.

Can anybody tell me where the O-ring goes that came with the new thermostat?

Hopefully with the complete brake rebuild, new clutch master and slave and the cooling problem sorted, I'll be on the road soon.

Thanks again for all the help and support,

Doug

[jaguiler]

if it is like most cars - th O ring goes between the block and the thermo housing.

not having the thermo will allow the collant to continuosly travel through the system - not allowing the truck to heat up - not sure why the collant would end up going ot the overflow in that case - but hopefully that fixes your issue - good luck