series axles

[tonkatoy189]

i see the word out there is that the stock axles break. i plan on wheeling my 88. i've only had it 6 months and havent sorted it enough to really take it out. i'm currently running opened diffs. if i do at some point install lockers what else is necessary? i saw that detroit makes a 10 spline locker but is the 10 spline axle strong enough? does anyone make a stronger 10 spline? I've seen that there is a higher spline count axle (24 i think). is this a good conversion?

thanks
david

[WineryRover]

Originally Posted by tonkatoy189

i see the word out there is that the stock axles break. i plan on wheeling my 88. i've only had it 6 months and havent sorted it enough to really take it out. i'm currently running opened diffs. if i do at some point install lockers what else is necessary? i saw that detroit makes a 10 spline locker but is the 10 spline axle strong enough? does anyone make a stronger 10 spline? I've seen that there is a higher spline count axle (24 i think). is this a good conversion?

thanks
david

Hey David,

There are alot of options out there, from 24 spline conversions to full axle swaps, all it takes is money and time. Unless you are running larger than a 31" tire, or doing alot of rock wheeling, I would hold off. You have only had the truck 6 months, there may be things that will warrent your attention more than an axle upgrade. I am planning on locking up my series as well, and when I get to that point will look at all the options, but there is no way I want to lock 10 splines, I think I would spend too much time replacing shafts.

[Bogatyr]

David,
Right, it's more important to get a feel for what your truck can do than to start tearing her apart.

However, I would certainly suggest inspecting your current axle shafts for any sign of the splines being twisted. It would behoove you to replace any that do show signs of wear before wheeling...much easier to replace them if they are twisted prior to sending metal shards all over your diff...

[KevinNY]

Hi Matt, how've you been?

www.seriestrek.com for HD series axle options

[LR Max]

Simply upgrading to 24 spline won't totally eliminate the problem. I've broken a 24 spline axle shaft in my rover before. The extra spline count really helps but it doesn't eliminate the problem (assuming you are using stock 24 spline shafts).

If you are truly concerned, then first check the condition of your current shafts. If you see something wrong, then go ahead and procure replacements, and keep the old ones as backups. I'd also recommend you carry a spare set of flanges while you are at it. Word on the street (though I've never seen it) is that sometimes the flange will strip out. Like I've said, I've never seen it in person but it could happen. I would think you'd be able to get 2nd hand flanges for cheap and they don't take up hardly any room in the back of the rig, why not?

Suprisingly, I've heard of more 3rd members getting destroyed than axles breaking in series. If you buy the series trek axles, then you'll put all the stress on the carrier and it'll probably explode. The only way to solve this is to install a full case-replacement locker or replace the whole axle.

I know it sounds like a loose-loose situation, but most of the time series trucks aren't being pushed *too* hard (excluding Kevin and a few others). So breaking axles isn't too much of a concern. Also the series 2s and 3s have a full floating rear axle, so a busted rear axle component won't leave you stranded. Crippled, but not stranded. I've limped in front wheel drive before. It sucks but you can get home.

[MPi-KMS-72]

Stock axles are crap when compared to more modern designs. BUT if you are just starting out though you'd be better off to wheel with them and take a couple spares with you. Despite being inferior the old Rover 10 spline axles served pretty well with stock size tires all throughout the world... Later if you find you are breaking them frequently you could consider the myriad of options out there for upgrade.

If you want a little insurance Jim Young at Series Trek is making HD 10 spline axles which will drop right in with no modification.

Right now though just inspect your current axles and drive flanges, make sure there isn't any play in their fit and make sure the shafts aren't twisted.

[Mercedesrover]

If you’re gonna wheel your truck and you want to run a locker in the rear, the cheapest way out is a 24-spline locker of your choice and a pair of 24-spline axles. For every ring and pinion that blow up in a Series, 10 center diffs go, so you’ll be relatively safe upgrading the center with a locker. In an 88, 24-spline axles and a good center will be all you need, (unless you’re really trashing hard on it, in which case 30-spline front and rears and Toyota centers are the way to go. But that’s another story).

Now, you can use my axles or someone else’s to do this. Mine eliminate the outer drive flange, which cuts down on backlash in the drive train.

If you don’t want the expense of installing a locker, my suggestion is to stick with the stock Land Rover 10-spline shafts. Get yourself a new set now and keep the old ones in the truck for spares. As for the drive flanges, I’ve only heard rumors of one stripping so I wouldn’t worry about them too much.

As Matt mentioned, I have done a lot of research on making a stronger replacement 10-spline axle that would drop in without changing anything else. I’ve spent a bit of money in the past few weeks testing stock Land Rover axles at a lab on the west coast and after tossing it around for a while; I’ve decided not to go through making them. Much to my surprise and amazement these stock axles are pretty darn good. Yup, you heard me say it here first! Land Rover makes a pretty darn good 10-spline axle!! Analysis of these axles really surprised me. I won’t bore you with the composition percentages but the alloy is very, very close to SAE-4140. They are thru-hardened to 380 on the Vickers scale, (equivalent to 36 Rockwell C) and have no case hardening. Not bad! I can make you axles that are perhaps 25% stronger, but at a significantly higher price that the stock ones. As you can see, it’s just not worth it. I’ll stick with making my 24 and 30-spline axles which I know are a vast improvement over stock.

The problem with stock axles is not in the alloy composition and hardening procedure, but simply the diameter. 1.1” does not a strong axle make! And most break from fatigue and not from the stresses of off-roading. Change them out every 25K and I’d bet most guys with an open diff 88 aren’t going to break many.

Jim
www.seriestrek.com

[LR Max]

I won’t bore you with the composition percentages but the alloy is very, very close to SAE-4140.

Nooooo wwwwaaayyyyy....

Does that go for the stock 24 splines as well outta the salisbury?? Because there is no way IN HELL I broke a 4140 axle shaft in a 109 with a 4 cylinder and 31s while doing a powerslide...

[tonkatoy189]

thanks for all the advice. for now I'll just change out to new stock axles. Atlantic British has a set of axles that are only $135 or so. does anyone know the quality of these? Someone mentioned toyota axles. are the third members bolt in? if so which ones cruser or pick up? i have much experience wheeling toyota and know they are good.
thanks
david

[Mercedesrover]

Way, Max.

I can’t say for sure about the Salisbury as I only had the Land Rover style axles tested. My guess would be that yours were fatigued over time and started to become work-hardened and cracked. One day they just had enough and broke. And this seems to be the theme with Land Rover axles generally. You here stories about guys pulling away from a stoplight and an axle will pop. You do hear about guys breaking axles on the trail as well, but really not as often as you’d think given their terrible reputation. Perhaps the guys that wheel these trucks pay more attention to their trucks and replace shafts with worn splines; a good sign that your axles have got some miles on them and should be replaced.

David, if you don’t want to install a locker and you’re going to be easy on your truck on the trail, I’d say yes, go with a new pair of Land Rover axles and keep your old ones as spares. Not sure about the ones AB sells but I’d confirm that they’re made by Land Rover. Rovers North’s are more expensive but they’re genuine. If you’re going to wheel this truck hard, my suggestion would be to install a locker and a pair of 24-spline shafts.

And no, David, the Toyota center doesn’t bolt in but can be done. I’ve got Toyota e-lockers in my truck along with my 30spline axles. Do that to your truck and I promise you, you won’t break them.

Jim

[tonkatoy189]

thanks for the info. i saw your site jim. very interesting. before my truck got stolen i ran 5.29s and lock-rights. never had a problem. ill have to see how hard i decide to wheel my rover.

david

[pickuprover]

Personally I do not have a problem with the stock axles. If you are constantly snapping them, then you probably should look at how you are driving. There is a lot to be said for finding the right lines on the trail..... As well I would rather have a half shaft snap then strip a diff.... although I prefer to have a drive flange strip first, (but unfortunaetly that never seems to happen....)

[Greg S]

Experience has shown me that Land Rover included a meter as a stock item on the older Land Rovers to determine when your axle is about to break, and so, when to replace it. I though it was common knowledge. It applies to those who wheel hard and then use the old girl for a daily driver. Just check the odometer. If you wheel hard, change axles at 20-25 thousand miles. (I was going to say 20 thousand but MR beat me with 25, so--)

[p76rangie]

Standard drive flanges do chew out. Have seen a few and has happened to me. So it you are getting slop in them, replace them.

You need power to break axles. Enough said in regard to a 2 1/4 motor.

A lot of the old series landies in Oz got converted to a GM 6 cyclinder motor and that is when they start to have axle issues.