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Old 02-08-2012, 11:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Series III rebuild from B.C. *pics*

Hello all, been working on my old Series III. Bought it about a year and a half ago and been fiddling with it now and then, have too many projects so they progress slowly at times.

I picked it up running and driving but barely in both cases!



Check out more pre-op pics here

Had/Has the usual rot in the rear frame and cross member as well as the outriggers. No brakes, hydraulic or emergency. Suspension shot. Floorboards poorly patched. You know the type!

Started off by gettin the pesky body out of the way for the frame repairs.





Then I put the rear axle back over the leafs as the PO attempted to lift it to remedy the wore out leafs... Then I got what was left of the cross member off.



I removed the rear frame brackets, exhaust hangers, and spring hangers, made a cardboard template from what was left of the frame rails and rebuilt the back 1.5-2 feet of frame with sheet metal (16ga if I remember correctly). Unfortunately I lost that set of pictures to a virus so you will have to use your imagination there.

*imagine*

Then I tackled the front outriggers as they were a little light..

Cut a couple of these out.


After folding it around a piece of angle iron using violence and loud grunting, Not exact but close enough for this guy.




Found another ventilation hole!




Little bit of primer.


And some shiny marine enamel to keep it pretty.


After that it sat for the rest of the summer, between work and play it just wasnt in the cards.

Now back at it I tackled the rear cross member. I went with 10ga for some extra beef.

Got it drawn out.






The filler pieces on the sides will get welded in once it is attached to the frame so I can get in there with the welder.


Last test fit, sun is gettin low, air is gettin cold so enough for today.


Now that I have reached this point could someone please get me a measurement? I need the width of the rear cross member side to side across the top. and width in between the tail gate brackets. I think I got it close but there isnt a heck of a lot left of my old one to go by so my current measurements are a little vague...

I am also thinking about ditching the drop bracket and trailer ball mount in favour of a 2" receiver hitch incorporated in to the rear cross member, part of the reason I stepped up to 10ga. Maybe though I should I keep it original looking, thoughts?

Let me know if there is any interest and I will keep this thread updated, the other forum I was posting on is kinda light on traffic so helpful info and encouragement is few and far between.

Thanks for making it this far!
Scott
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Great thread, I love that you are rebuilding this thing outside. Crazy Canadians!

I will get those measurements you need for you today.

I would keep the hitch original.
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I agree on the hitch, except pull off the ball so you can drop in a pin for recovery. You weren't going to tow anything with this, were you?
Cool to see you are making all of the pieces from scratch. You can pick many frame pieces up from various sources, but with your approach you can certainly say without hesitation that you built it!
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Great work so far, I'm looking forward to watching the progress.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Great thread, I love that you are rebuilding this thing outside. Crazy Canadians!
Look who's talkin! Doubt your winter has been any harsher than ours this year, when it breaks the freezing point I'm outside in a t-shirt and flip flops working!

I looked around at buying patch panels but couldnt stomach paying 2-3 times the price of making them myself. That and there isn't anyone local I could find to order them in so here I am! So far I am in to it for about $100-150 in materials including steel, welding wire, and grinding/cutting wheels. I am going to need the money I save to rebuild the brakes, suspension, and rear diff in hindsight this probably shoulda been a parts truck But I dragged it home already so may as well finish it right?

Besides the series rovers are just too cool

Thinkin I will keep the rear cross member stock. Easier, and the most I will probably ever tow with it is a light tent trailer or small utility trailer so I will leave well enough alone

Got squat done today, decided I had to go put some miles on the snowmobile, tomorrow may be the same story. Short attention span

If you could grab those measurements in the mean time that would be great.

Thanks for showing some interest!
Scott
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Old 02-10-2012, 07:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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OK, these measurements are from a Series II but I think they will work?

Total length of the rear crossmember is 5' (60"). I know this is not as wide as the body tub, all my Series LR's are the same way. I don't know why? LR being cheap I suppose. If I were making my own as you are I would be tempted to make it the same width.

Distance from the left side (looking from the rear) to the tailgate mounting tab is 15".

Distance from the right side to tailgate mounting tab is 13".

The tailgate mounting tabs are 32" apart.

Hope that helps.

P.S. If you are ever in the Medicine Hat area I may be able to help you out with diff's/parts etc.
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Last edited by roverandom; 02-10-2012 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Add info
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You know I didnt even realize that they werent equally spaced, strange. Thanks a lot for the measurements I can get them in place tomorrow.

Never actually been that far south in alberta before, Going to be working near Kamloops this year so it may be a worthwhile weekend adventure to see some new terrain. I have an offer from a guy near vancouver to ship me up a rear pumpkin, we will see how that pans out.

Scott
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I love this thread, it is inspiring. I am in a similar boat. My problem is that the top of my chassis rails are great, they still have the interior paint on them. However the bottoms of the rails are nibbled upon by the tin worm. I'm hoping I get some time over my February break to cut and weld. Were you using a plasma torch your cuts look incredible. Thanks for the posting up this thread. Nate
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It is possible to keep the pintle and have a 2 inch receiver. I moved the pintle part to the 2 upper bolts then flipped it over so it mounts upside down. I then cut out a 2 1/2 inch square below then welded a piece of 2 inch receiver tube in. I made the receiver tube long enough to come fwd enough to the front side of the rear frame member where I welded a piece of 1/4 inch thick 2X2 angle then bolted it through the bottom of the rear frame member. I also welded a 1/2 inch jamb nut onto the receiver to keep things like bike racks tight. The original pin for the pintle goes in just aft of the end of the receiver tube, and to make things stronger you could weld the receiver tube to the original pintle hitch. There are many benefits to using a 2 inch receiver tube and there is actually something like this made for the Landrover, it just doesn't keep the pintle hitch.
Nice job by the way
Forgot to mention I have a 2 inch receiver on the front as well, it's great for moving trailers or goosnecks around, and you can install a hoist/boom with a winch.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverandom View Post
Total length of the rear crossmember is 5' (60"). I know this is not as wide as the body tub, all my Series LR's are the same way. I don't know why? LR being cheap I suppose.
Figured it out! My bumper ended up being one inch wider than your measurement, barely fit!



After I took the box back off I got the side panels straightened out so it would probably fit ok, gonna trim a little off each side though to give it some wiggle room.

Quote:
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Were you using a plasma torch your cuts look incredible. Thanks for the posting up this thread. Nate
Thanks Nate but all the cuts are with a 5" Zip cut on an angle grinder, works good for straight lines But I am waiting to borrow a friends plasma cutter to open the holes for the PTO drive. tried with a jig saw but it wasn't gonna happen.

I did the bottom of my rear frame rails about 3 feet up from the rear, just used a strip of 14ga sheet metal and a bunch of clamps. Left a 2" overlap at the front of the patch. Had a lot of spatter burns on my arms by the time I was done both sides. Worst part of the job so far, hate to tell ya!

I am using a cheap 120V mig welder, Running flux cored .030 wire till I get another tank of gas. Works perfect for this light steel and autobody work. I have a roll of .023 to use with gas for the really light stuff.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is what I have gotten done recently.



The 1x1x.133 square tube is to support the rail from being pinched by the front bumper bolts, a little heavy duty but it was all I have on hand, using the same stuff for the rear cross member bolts.


All mocked up, you can see where I cut under the top of the frame rail so I could hammer it down and have the new frame thickness the same top to bottom so the bumper will fit the same as original.


Just a couple holes to drill now and it is done, started cutting on the other side but it was dark by the time I gave up, arent the days supposed to be getting longer now??


My steel should be bent up tomorrow and I can get to making up the new front bumper. Gotta drop off a sample of the braces that go up in the rear wheel wells as the fronts are completely rotten and the rears are close to it. Little things at a time, some day it will be finished! (yeah right!)

Scott
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Tackled the front bumper today.



Used a friends plasma cutter to cut the radius and notched the edge with a zip cut.



Used a rubber mallet to get it bent around as far as I could then pulled it in the last bit with pliers and tacked it in place.



There it is with both ends welded up and trimmed. Nice and straight!



Next was the crank hole recycled from the old bumper, took a lot of hammering to get all four edges straight so it would match up well.



Bit-o-grindage and all is well!



I cut the mounts off the old bumper, have to finish straightening them out and once the other front frame horn is done I will mock it up and weld them on so everything will line up properly.

Also got the PTO holes and hitch bolt holes cut out of the rear cross member with the plasma cutter so it is ready for final assembly soon.

Cant wait to be finished the frame on this thing!

Here is the start of my rear body braces, dont think these ones will rot out very soon!



Scott
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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First , you are doing a great job , the front pumper looks very good.
I am doing almost the same repairs on my frame and I wish I had seen your repairs before I started doing the work.
The rear crossmember is 60.5" long if that helps.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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great thread keep it coming
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I laugh every time you post up and there is still snow on the ground. Those overpaid TV 'reality' car show guy's that do re-builds and restorations on old vehicles should take note. They work in state of the art shops with loads of equipment, blank cheque budgets and just stand around throwing temper tantrums and arguing a lot. They should come down and see how it get's done when you just quit whining and just get to work.

Nice fab work by the way, great thread.
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