Snagger's 109 rebuild

[Snagger]

I'm getting well stuck in on my project now. It's not a restoration; I'll be retaining the previos mods and incorporating a few others too.

The strip-down was completed a few months ago, shortly after the delivery of the new chassis (Marsland galvanised HD 1-ton with 2.5 engine mounts, extended spring hangers and mounts for 3 fuel tanks). I also got my hands on a new galv bulkhead. The twin 12 imp gal underseat and standard 18 imp gal rear tank will give a range of over 1000 miles. Twin 2-Jerrycan lockers extend this with a further 10 imp gal. All the accesories are to be refitted, the doors reskinned, the body painted in 2-pack, windows tinted and the interior redone from scratch.

The rear Salisbury axle was new 2 years ago, unused and crated military spare, the front rebuilt at the same time. The gearboxes and overdrive were rebuilt last summer. I have a mint 12J (installed prio to strip) that I rebuilt 5 years ago, and an unknown 19J (TD) whch needs rebuilding. I haven't decided on which to fit yet. I'm on the steering box at the moment, waiting for parts.

Here are some pics of the work to date. You can see the specs and details of the vehicle prior to strip down on my website.

[Snagger]

A few more:

[Lawnmower]

Glad to hear its going well!

[Snagger]

Thanks.

I got home today and my wfe gave me my birthday present (a bit early, but it's to big to hide it) - and EvansUK bulkhead removal bar, like those fitted to new 90s. That'll make the interior much better. Still got a few more smaller bits waiting for my birthday too!

[Lawnmower]

Brill, i saw a bulkhead removal bar in a 90 hardtop and it worked a treat, allowed the seats to actually move back!

Have seen them from £88 at mudstuff (i think).

I'm cheap, so I found one of those bulkhead bars as found in station wagons with the slight bends in it and intend to fit that.

As soon as i fix my gearbox and get it through its MOT

[Snagger]

Mine's from Evans UK, for about £230. Very high quality. I don't want to screw around as it's structural. The SW bar may work; it'll certainly keep the spacing between the door shuts, but as it's only horizontal, it may allow the body sides to flex, albeit in parallel to each other. The proper bars are diagonal, forming a stable triangle between floor, body side and the bar itself, and is thus rigid.

[Lawnmower]

Yeah, new it was a strucural thing, but, figure if it off one model, might work on another. May fix some extra box section lower down though if i ever even get round to doing it.

when will your build be finished?

[Snagger]

The trouble you have is that the rear bulkhead is in a different position to and is a different shape from a 109/90/110 bulkhead, and to don't have the space infront of the bottom of the bulkhead, behind the seatbox. You may be able to design something specifically for the 88 based on the Def bar, but re-engineeered to fit, and even be able to sell copies commercially. Let me know how you get on.

I managed to get the outstanding parts for my steering box, so at least that's back together now.

[Lawnmower]

Would you be fitting power steering?

[Snagger]

No - the steering is fine on Series Land Rovers, so long as everything is in good condition and correctly set up. This is particularly true of the steering box, rod ends and top swivel pins. I prefer to keep the vehicle as mechanically stock as possible. That way it's more robust, there's less to go wrong and it's easier to fix when you do have a problem, especially when away from home. It also avoids loading your insurance premium.

Apart from fitting an Overdrive, parabolics and a Land Rover diesel conversion, the vehicle is mechanically the same spec as when it left Lode Lane. Parabolics are a huge benefit, and I prefer the economy and reliability of diesels over petrols, but I think that Land Rover had most things about right when they designed the SIII. The trim is a little sparse and the heating and seating need improving if you drive any distance, but the vehicle was ideal for its task. I think LR have lost their way recently; it's all well and good having high-tech luxury flagship models, but the utilities should not be fitted with electronics (except alarms and radios), and should be bush-mechanic friendly.

[Moeras]

Hear Hear!

I agree. You can fix a Series landy with any tools at any place. No need for plugin computers or any fancy equipment.
I once replaced the diaphrame on my Petrol pump this a piece cut out from a Truck inner tube. Only lasted the 200km's but got me home!
THAT is bush friendly!!!

No electronoc fuel-injection & timings and such for me thanx. Sure the chance of someting goining wrong is littl.(click)..littl.(click)..littl.(bang)..(smoki ng!!)....
But if it does you are deeply embeddded into that gooey stuff that stinks!

[Snagger]

4 things electronics hate: moisture; dirt; heat; vibration.
4 things Land Rovers have: moisture; dirt; heat; vibration.

So, in the middle of nowhere, would I drive a Series vehicle (or non-electronoc Defender), or a new Discovery...

[Moeras]

What Diesel enjin are you using?

[Tango]

Well your not wrong about the plentiful amounts of moisture; dirt; heat; vibration but I still would keep my 2.25 petrol as she will keep on turning aslong as she has something vaugly combustible in the tank. I think the point about keeping it series as much as possible (i.e. keeping it simple) is so much the better less to go wrong and better to fix.

Tango

[Snagger]

As you can tell from my avatar, I'm not terribly cocerned about originality. My 109 was built in 1982 as a standard 2.25p hard-top. Nothing historic or unique about it. It does break my heart, though, to see Series Is being used for trialling, as these are now historic.

I do, however believe in keeping things simple, so when the very worn out 2.25p (5mb) came out, and a diesel went in (for better economy), I wanted to keep it Land Rover. It may have less efficiency than a Ford 2.5d, and less performance than the Nissan 2.8, but the LR 12J 2.5 nad is tough, reliable and simple. I can still get all my parts come from one supplier, rather than going to several manufacturers, and everything fits properly without any dodgy fabrications.

I have just ordered a new rocker set from Turner Engineering, as they were the only moving parts not replaced when I rebuilt the 12J a few years ago and the old pads have had it. Otherwise, the engine is in fine fettle, and pulls the 109 along at 65mph on level ground, dispite all the extra drag created by the roof rack and spots.

I have a 19J engine (2.5td) on the garage floor which, except for the exhaust, will be a direct swap. Approx 33% more power and torque, but not too strong for a SIII transmission (unlike the better Tdi). However, it has done 100,000 miles and uses a fair bit of oil, according to the owner of the broken 110 it came from. It'll need a full rebuild, which I'll entrust to Turner's at a later date and when funds permit. My only concern is the 19J's reputation for reduced robustness than the 12J (particularly in cracking pistons, which I suspect of my unit).