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#1 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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All the cmopanies I've called (all three of them) do not want to galvanize my 109's frame because they say it'll warp beyond repair.
So how are new frames galvanized??? Or is the steel galvanized BEFORE they make a new frame?
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JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Nut Futzer
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Hot dip is not the same as the crystalline structured stuff you see on your garbage can.
Or on your rover parts. That is electroplated... as far as I know and what it looks to be. Hot dipped is literally immersed in molten zinc at 850 degrees F. Yea.. there's a good chance it will warp your frame horribly. I would think that might even re-crystalize the steel making it harder or (if possible ) softer. I am not sure on the temps anymore. I've never seen a zinc'd frame up close. It could be plated as a whole... most likely is. If it was dipped I would imagine that's the grey globby stuff you see on nails and thicker pipe and fittings. If you're worried about your frame rusting. I would definitely recommend the por-15 or silver bullet etc. I love that stuff. They want a really clean surface..but i've found its ok on "mostly clean". You could get it dip cleaned or just not worry about it. The greasy parts don't rust anyway. For the interior, you could spray up in there with .. well anything from grease to wax to roof tar to a purpose built product.. like .. rusty jones.. I know rusty jones isn't around anymore.. but there are waxy products and companies that apply them. I was going to just get like a wand sprayer and go to town with whatever I could come up with... I like napa rubberized undercoating. Just think.. It lasted 30+ years as is. Any product should do another 30. If its already failing. paint won't rebuild it. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: near Altanta
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It's not galvanised before. Besides having to grind off the zinc before welding (which would defeat the purpose), zinc fumes are highly toxic.
The galvanized chassis you buy, like Marsland, Richards, etc., are assembled then hot dipped. I've had metal coaters tell me that before, but I suspect they may be thinking of your typical truck/car chassis that is u-channel, not box beam like a Land Rover. Unless they use a different process in the US than in the UK, which I doubt.
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Tom Rowe Atlanta, GA Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. 62 88 reg 67 NADA x2 74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666) 95 D1 - R380 95 D90 - R380 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Thanks guys! This paints a clearer picture for me. I'm a few steps away from having a bare frame so Im going to get it Sand Blasted once its there and I think I may just HAVE to go the POR15 route.
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JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
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They'd probably hot dip it for you if you agree it's at your own risk. Or call someone who sells a lot of galv chassis, like DAP or RN and ask them their experience. Or even Richards or Marsland.
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Tom Rowe Atlanta, GA Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. 62 88 reg 67 NADA x2 74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666) 95 D1 - R380 95 D90 - R380 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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94 Defender 90
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chester, NH
Posts: 1,070
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It should be fine as long as they air dry it.
The D-90 Source - Thoughts on galvy chassis? The D-90 Source - Bulkhead Questions The D-90 Source - galvanizing questions It has been done many times before. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Cornwall Ct.
Posts: 59
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It won't warp. I just did mine a couple months ago (along with a bunch of other stuff) and it was fine. The reason no one will do it for you is they're tired of dealing with Rover people. Too many people bitching about the finish or giving them aluminum pieces and complaining when they disappear. It happens, I swear! Get friendly with a galvy shop and get them to believe you're not going to break their stones and they'll be happy to do it for you.
Here's a picture of my frame that was done a couple months ago and a picture of the breakfast that was just done yesterday. ![]() ![]() jim
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#10 (permalink) |
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MISSING THE HELL OUT OF SEATTLE
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Just curious...how much does it cost to have a chassis galv vs. buying a galv chassis alreeady made?
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82' series III 109 safari prepared 2.25 pet.WILL NEVER GET RID OF!!!!!! 91'Range Rover classic 3.9L V8!(sold) 98' Land Rover Discovery with a MOD wolf 300 tdi(sold) 97' Defender 90 300 tdi (sold) 99' p38 Range 4.6 autobiography (sold) 2007 Porsche GT3..faster than the 109! |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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MISSING THE HELL OUT OF SEATTLE
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Quote:
![]() BTW your Dog does not seem to be too concerned at the new chassis!
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82' series III 109 safari prepared 2.25 pet.WILL NEVER GET RID OF!!!!!! 91'Range Rover classic 3.9L V8!(sold) 98' Land Rover Discovery with a MOD wolf 300 tdi(sold) 97' Defender 90 300 tdi (sold) 99' p38 Range 4.6 autobiography (sold) 2007 Porsche GT3..faster than the 109! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Cornwall Ct.
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This was a brand new Marsland Stage One frame that I modified a bunch of stuff on (New motor mounts, different power steering, different tranny x-mamber, etc.) and had re-galvanized. Galvanizing is incredibly cheap and really the only way to go for a frame. This frame along with about 100 other pieces cost under $300 to galvanize. I just had a whole bunch of stuff done yesterday. 2288lbs. worth of steel and the bill was $886.00. No, it doesn't pay to paint.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Jim!!! Thank you VERY much for your response. To be on the safeside, I've got a few more questions...
1) How long does the process take? Is it a drop-off one day pick-up the next type of thing or is it a oneday thing. 2)I know that there are two general ways of Galv-ing, did you use the hot-dip method (800-850 deg.)?
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JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Cell,
Thanks for your response as well...those threads are all helpful! I feel more confident about having it done now!
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JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Cornwall Ct.
Posts: 59
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Quote:
I waited for them to do mine, though it takes the better part of a day. They unloaded my at 6:00am and I think I was out of there by 1:00. Yes, hot-dipped. Typically the bath is 830-850 degrees. There are also a series of chemical/cleaning baths that the piece is run through before the final galvanizing bath and cooling bath. Yes, it's run through a cooling bath and no, it didn't do any harm. Most harm, if any, will simply come from handling these pieces, especially the larger ones. Most of the guys that work at these places are, ah, non-Americans and don't take the greatest care with some things. It pays to stick around and look like a hard-ass when they're working on your stuff. They broke and dropped a 700lb. ramp on me yesterday (I sent a kid with the stuff). He didn't notice until he got back to the shop. Not the end of the world but I wished they had been more careful. By the way. Clean, clean, clean!!! Sandblast, acid dip, whatever you can do. It needs to be as clean as it would be if you were painting it, including the inside. If there all sorts of crap on the inside of the frame, it'll blow out all over the outside and you won't be a happy boy.
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