Throw out bearing "plastic staple" question

[zed]

.. I asked someone else they say its an assembly part only. But the mods won't let you delete a thread.

It does seem like awful tight tolerances in there though.. as if there's no room to bolt the flywheel to the clutch and still leave play at the throw out bearing.

What kind of spacing do I need between throwout and pressure plate?

[antichrist]

I've replaced quite a few over the years and never had an issue with spacing. But I've never actually measured the space either, I never thought about it.

[TerryS]

Originally Posted by zed

.. I asked someone else they say its an assembly part only. But the mods won't let you delete a thread.

Huh? Yes, The 'staple' on the new style (Defender style) throwout bearing is only needed until you get it in place.

Originally Posted by zed

.. It does seem like awful tight tolerances in there though.. as if there's no room to bolt the flywheel to the clutch and still leave play at the throw out bearing.

I don't understand why you say this, with the engine & gearbox seperated, there's all the room needed to insert the friction plate centralizing plug, and bolt up the pressure plate.

Originally Posted by zed

.. What kind of spacing do I need between throwout and pressure plate?

When the gearbox is bolted back up, and the throwout is at rest, it's about an 1/8" away from the pressure plate.
Are you ceretain you have the correct throwout bearing? I have never seen the plastic one in a series truck.

[zed]

Originally Posted by TerryS

Huh? Yes, The 'staple' on the new style (Defender style) throwout bearing is only needed until you get it in place.

Good got it.

Originally Posted by TerryS

I don't understand why you say this, with the engine & gearbox seperated, there's all the room needed to insert the friction plate centralizing plug, and bolt up the pressure plate.

No I am/was worried about the space between the bearing and the pressure plate in an assembled condition. Will it back off enough? I think so.. but it seems so close.. but your below answer reveals..its pretty close...

Originally Posted by TerryS

When the gearbox is bolted back up, and the throwout is at rest, it's about an 1/8" away from the pressure plate.
Are you ceretain you have the correct throwout bearing? I have never seen the plastic one in a series truck.

I'm fairly certain it is correct.

It is listed on the receipt from the PO as FTC5200 bearing, clutch release. Searching on it reveals a very very similar looking product. The colluding evidence leads me to believe its correct.. but no.. i'm not certain. I have the pictured bearing.


I think i'm good to go.

I believe the plastic staple was at fault as there is a ding in the plastic sleeve of the bearing where the clutch fork was wedged onto it 90 degrees out of alignment. There were grooves in the spring fingers on the pressure plate from constant contact over a mere 200 miles. The flywheel was trashed with rust and new clutch burned. Its possible the PO (a novice at best) didn't understand the situation and replaced the clutch to solve a problem with slipping due to rust. Then reassembled wrong. I had the flywheel turned.. and ordered a new clutch plate and sanded the pressure plate. The bearing seems fine.


Thanks for your help..

I should have about 1/8" when done. Seemed tight to me.. Especially given potential for tolerance variance from brand to brand..

With no spring to actually pull the bearing back.. it kind of stays in constant contact with the pressure plate on these vehicles eh?.. albeit, not too forceful? The slave cylinder doesn't have any mechanism to return the piston. It just presses forcefully or not forcefully. Right?

Unlike an american style bearing with the flange that allows the clutch fork to pull the bearing free of the pressure plate.

any advise on an alignment tool? I usually just use a dowel or an old input shaft if appropriate size available. I've since gone mobile and got rid of all my old parts.

Thanks again.

[pickuprover]

I use a long socket of the appropriate size. An old input shaft is best, but most people do not have an old one lying around.

[TerryS]

As long as the pilot bushing is in good shape, just about anything with the correct diameters works. An old input shaft is perfect. The cheap POS the give you when you buy one brand is a little plastic thingy, with no practical afterlife use. ( Paint them red and hang them on the shop Christmas tree?)
Those pics are exactly the throwout in a Defender, or at least the same as what I put in my 110 last time the engine was out. I've just changed out a 2A and it's nothing likethat, but S3 may be.
Without getting the book out, I'm sure you should have a spring to pull the fork away from the pressure plate. Here again, 2/2A and S3 are very different.

[antichrist]

Petrol Defender/Discovery and SIII throwout bearings are the same. Though I have both the bakelite and cast iron carrier for the bearing itself for a SIII.

[zed]

SO there should be a return spring?
I don't see anything listed in the parts catalogue.

or any place to attach it. The piston rod is attached to the fork and not the clutch.. so any action of the clutch wouldn't move the fork back ...

There's no place or room behind the fork to attach a return spring.. Seems to just count vibrating away from the pressure plate.

Which makes smooth operation of slave fork and bearing imperative.
I don't mean the clutch pedal return spring. I mean the actual fork its self. It just flops around in there. Every time you would go down hill or decelerate I would think the throw out bearing would be riding the pressure plate.


Seems funny to me.


The bearing I have is inseparable from the carrier. But I think its right.

[zed]

Turns out the staple is pretty important in assembling a III. Not much chance of getting that transmission in with the bearing in place without fixing it to the fork somehow.

Just incase this pops up in someone's google search.
Hate an unfinished thread.