Vibration and carburetion tips on troubleshooting

[zed]

I finally got my rover all back together. It still has the gimpy transmission in it. Wanted to shake down the rest of it before undergoing that surgery.

2 things come to my attention.

I've got an old carby in there.. says weber tipo 34 tch. I don't want to burn holes in my pistons. How can I know that its adjusted properly? I'm not a wizzbang carburetor guy. The thing misfires a bit at idle when hot. When cold it idles very smoothly.

Second, Have an intermittent vibration. Trying to think of things I need to check. It may well be in the transmission. Its sloppy and popping out of gear, replacing it soon.
The vibration comes and goes at various speeds. So far only when hot. Want to cover my bases. don't need to have the drive line lock up while at speed and flip me and the kids into oncoming traffic.

Thanks for any tips.

[jimfoo]

The idle mixture screw is underneath. Adjust it when the engine is hot. Screw it in until the engine starts to slow down, then screw it out just a little. It's been a long time, but I think it is around 1 1/4 turns out though I could be wrong. You should probably have a 165 main jet, which is under the cover. The idle jet is on the engine side of the carb, accessible by removing the brass screw. It will often get junk in it, messing with the idle. Other things to check is your valve lash. Does your spark look strong? Sometimes coils start to mis-behave when hot. Also don't forget regular tune up items, plugs, points, cap and rotor.

[zed]

YEa.. the cap and rotor points and condenser look new, I don't have a working dwell meter anymore. Going to order an ignitor or similar. Had good luck with them in the past. I've found that the plugs are wrong. They are disco plugs... the 12yc... gap is probably right.. but the electrode is bent over like mad to get it there. They are running in a nice heat range.. they are light tan. but still.. Think i'll pick up the 11yc or ngk bp5es

Worried that its a valve thing. I get no tapping. But more than anything I'm worried about burning pistons and valves. Worried about how its just when hot that it does it. It even starts idling fine if I just stop at a drive through or long red light.

The coil looks like crap maybe I'll pick up a new one with the ignitor.. Ive replaced some wires. I should continue that.

AS FOR the vibration. Was reading up.. Probably main shaft bearings. Need to get that tranny out NOW.

[jimfoo]

I forgot to add one thing, Webers are notorious for vapor locking. I ended up moving my fuel line to the bulkhead and adding a return, which helped a lot.

[zed]

I think someone already did that. It has a strange looking, what I assume to be a filter or something.. Its a pot metal pot on the firewall as High as it will go.
I haven't seen it in anyone elses rover pictures.

Took it up to costco today.. and back down the highway.. Since timing it it will indeed hit 55+ mph.
I think some of the tink tink noise I hear that has me worried is my old rusty header.

I want to get a whole new exhaust system.. Mine's loud.. think the muffler's rotted out inside. But Shipping is killing me. Need everything from the block back.

I think I'm getting a little more trusting of it. It used its first miniscule tank of gas today, and its doing nothing but running better. no change in status.. So .. it seems to be stable for the time being.. Knock on wood...

Its still missing occasionally. I'll do the valves and the pertronix ignition and see how it goes. It doesn't miss under load. Just at idle or even when held at an rpm . Nothing horrible I suppose. its old, and not all that fresh.

I also hope the guy didn't lie to me about the hardened seats in the valves. Its bad enough the thing has to try to stomach that ethanol.

[pickuprover]

Zed,
Every Rover owner should look at this site... NEATO TRICKS Pay careful attention to bullet proof points and timing tricks... they will both help prevent the burnt valves that worry you....

[msggunny]

You said "header", do you have one or are you refering to the exhaust manifold?

I have been told that a good exhaust shop should be able to fabricate everything. I will find out soon as i need exhaust done from my header collector back.

If you want an exhaust mainfold i have one that i would send you for the price of shipping, it will need to have the threads on the stud holes worked on.

[zed]

Yea.. I have a rusty thin walled bent flanged header. It leaks and it makes noise when it heats and cools. My exhaust system from there back isn't great either. But building it off that header is foolish.
I'd think about ordering a new header, but they're bigger and as heavy as a manifold. And a manifold isn't as loud.

I like quiet. Is there some giant benefit to running headers? Every car with headers I've gotten, have been loud and usually leaky.
I usually don't mind, but the rover exhaust is loud. I think the muffler rotted a baffle or something. Its quiet at idle then BLASTS when past maybe 1/4 throttle.

FIgured with a manifold, I'd be able to just order the factory shaped pipes, hopefully they'd fit. the system on there was made pretty badly. It gets far too close to things. Had to buy a new speedo cable. But can't install it till I get a new exhaust.

I'll think about the manifold. They aren't that pricey... so fixing the threads may not be worth while.

[zed]

Think my vibration is in a wheel. Turned slightly to the right (similar to last time it started) at highway speed and it started vibrating. Slowed down and straightened out and it didn't happen again. I s'pose it could even be my horribly worn tires. The thing is out of alignment.. and has been for a long time. the fronts look like claws.

[zed]

Originally Posted by pickuprover

Zed,
Every Rover owner should look at this site... NEATO TRICKS Pay careful attention to bullet proof points and timing tricks... they will both help prevent the burnt valves that worry you....

I cant believe I never ran into that before...

Good stuff.. since I have a slightly leaky webber and a slightly rusty rochester...

Was wondering if it was worth it and what jet to get.

[zed]

Hi.. I've finally gotten around to adjusting the valves, and I got rid of my misfire. The PO must have adjusted them to touch or with the engine cold. they were sitting at about .005" instead of .010" Almost tried adjusting them to .030" instead of mm. that would have been fun.
EDIT: Looks like I'll be doing it again. didn't read right.. should be .012 for exhaust.. or whatever.. I did a .010 all across.. still.. much better than before.. I need to go back in for the new valve cover anyway.

Smooth as glass at idle now. Its in pieces so I can't road test it for a while.

That being said. How "valvey" is this engine supposed to sound. I mean.. it doesn't sound like a diesel. But it clatters away like a sewing machine or GM LS2 engine maybe a 22r/re toyota engine.

I went from my hollowed out by rust turbo muffler behind a header to the stock exhaust.. and can hear the engine now. Not sure how its supposed to sound. Like I said.. its clackety. not like a bent push-rod .. just noisy. I scoped the engine with a yard stick.. the center bolt is louder than the outer.. but its also the only one surrounded by valves. I'm going to assume its ok unless someone tells me they are supposed to be honda or mercedes quiet.

[jimfoo]

They make a little valve clatter, not a lot but some.

[zed]

Originally Posted by jimfoo

They make a little valve clatter, not a lot but some.

ya.. thats my problem. There's no way to quantify that in text.

Its also hard to decide what's normal with the fenders and hood off.

Care to stop by and check mine out vs yours?

My only other land rover acquaintance likes more power than the 2.25 and has none in any of his rovers to compare.

I'll just check the measurements again. Check the condition of my rockers and decide if its normal or not based on that.


SO.. Just to make sure. I should be pressing down on the tappet and measuring above the valve.. right?

Asked this question in an aus/uk forum. "my rover ticks over silently" is the answer I get. And this constant allusion to a sound similar to that of a can full of bolts being shaken being wrong. I know "ticks over silently" is BS.. and Any engine that sounded like a can full of bolts probably has a broken connecting rod and valves in the cylinders..

[zed]

Thought I'd put this to bed.

Turns out.. that "HOT OR COLD" means HOT OR COLD.. not "kind of hot.. "

I adjusted my valves 2 times with the engine in similar.. pretty uncomfortable to touch after its been idling a while.. temps.. Thought it would be close enough to "HOT".. since I'd read in many a FAQ "hot or cold, read warm"

WELL.. I adjusted it those 2 times and checked it a third. A guy locally told me that it was too loud.. and I noticed that one was ticking louder than the rest.. so I went in and checked again.

WELL cold my valves were adjusted to .013-.015... at my version of hot (warm) they were sitting at .010-.011 checked 3 times. I adjusted it to .010-.011 cold and it sounds fine now.

So.. maybe I've got strange crazy metal that adjusts differently than others.. but I'm not going to be adjusting the valves "read warm" anymore.