when to overhaul a transmission

[zed]

SO.. I got the SIII all running today.. Took it out for a "high speed" run.
Turns out the thing will do about 50 + a bit, in over drive on flat ground. I don't know if thats bad or good. It also blew a wheel cylinder on my "high speed" stop.

I know these things are loud.. but mine seems awfully geary.

also
It likes to pop out of 3rd on deceleration.. pretty readily. You can hold it in, but it bucks the stick a bit.

2nd will pop out.. but not all that readily.

4th gear makes a clickety noise when coasting or under light load. (i'll check the fluid level again as well).

Transmission was pretty warm after my drive.. Not so I couldnt hold my hand on it though.

So.. I was wondering if it is hurting things to run it like it is. Or can I drive it till the gears fall off.. then put new gears in. Or is this an adjustment problem?

It shifts fine. That is, it slides right into gear.

Thanks

[jimfoo]

Fix it immediately. The problem is most likely the nut on the mainshaft is loose. Remove the OD, tighten the nut (100 ft lbs comes to mind), reinstall OD. Make sure the lock washer is good, and that the tab hasn't broken off of it, or you will need to order another. There are bearings that can be damaged by running with the nut loose.

[jimfoo]

Oh, as far as speed, you should be able do do much better on flat ground depending on some things. What is your CR? A 7:1 motor will be slower for sure, especially with a lot of miles, so if that's what you have, then it may be normal. An 8:1 should do better than that. Where are you at? At higher elevations, advancing the timing helps a lot. At 7400' I ran 13 degrees BTDC. I had a shaved 8:1 head, so closer to 9:1, and had a header. Barring a head wind, I could easily do 75 or more on a flat stretch, even at my higher elevation. On the exhaust manifold, there is a valve thing inside with a spring on the shaft on the outside of the manifold. It is supposed to close off the exhaust when cold to help warm the engine up, then open when it's warm. If it's stuck closed, you will have less power. When I had a regular manifold, I just disconnected the spring so that it was always open.

[zed]

Originally Posted by jimfoo

Fix it immediately. The problem is most likely the nut on the mainshaft is loose. Remove the OD, tighten the nut (100 ft lbs comes to mind), reinstall OD. Make sure the lock washer is good, and that the tab hasn't broken off of it, or you will need to order another. There are bearings that can be damaged by running with the nut loose.

ok I'll check that..
It requires that special tool, that I read wasn't available to anyone unless you had a friendly rover service guy in the area. Which I dont.
I found them at rovers down south.. but they're kind of spendy..
anyone got one I can borrow?



I have a header on there.
It doesnt' seem to burn oil.. A tiny puff when I start it occasionally.
Its supposed to have the 8:1 engine by being a sIII but if its original I couldnt say. It has a leaky header.
I haven't tuned it. It seems to be running rich.. I've not tuned it up yet. I'll time it and check the points.. they are new.. but .. open the right amount??

[jimfoo]

Originally Posted by zed

ok I'll check that..
It requires that special tool, that I read wasn't available to anyone unless you had a friendly rover service guy in the area. Which I dont.
I found them at rovers down south.. but they're kind of spendy..
anyone got one I can borrow?

Where are you at anyway? that will probably help in case someone close to you has one.

[zed]

Originally Posted by jimfoo

Where are you at anyway? that will probably help in case someone close to you has one.

I'm in hawaii.. unlike every other series guy on here. But I'm trustworthy...
I WILL send it back.. no problem. I'll even rent it from you. 110 $ for the wrench may.. be worth it in the long run tho.. I am just trying to keep it a budget project/hobby.

Anyway..
you're my hero...
I don't know how strong my fingers are, but I do not think it is up to 100 ft/lbs. Unless I am superman it is more like 4-8 ounce/lbs It doesn't seem to be backed off that far.. but it is loose.

If it is the whole cause of my problem is yet to be seen. but it is loose.

SO.. will it being loose just a tiny bit cause it to buck out of gear on deceleration?

I mean its loose.. but there's not a whole lot of play in there.

THe shaft is fairly tight. What I would expect out of anything.. "proper end play"

The guy at rovers down south said I'd be able to see where the shaft was moving in the overdrive.. but I don't see any wear at all. Not that I know a whole lot about it. I've worked on 1 transmission in my life.. and it was a t-90 out of a willis about 20-25 years ago.

Losing the syncro or bearings are both supposed to yield play, i read. But the input and output don't seem to have much. The transmission input and transfer box output both were very tight.

Like I said... the trans output has a little play and the nut is loose as heck.. but it doesn't seem to be backed off.

Anyway.. here's a couple thousand words..
Notice anything wrong? i don't know what to look for really.
One of the tabs on the lock washer is engaged in the nut one isn't .

[jimfoo]

Well, in a pinch, lots of people use a punch or dull chisel and hammer to whack it tight again. I think it usually needs to be looser for you to have problems, but it's been a while, so I don't remember. if it still does it when tight, then it's tranny rebuild time. Don't keep driving it as some parts are no longer available(layshaft) and the more you drive, the more damage will end up being done. Since you have a Ser III, it could just be worn synchros, but the symptoms point to the nut.

[zed]

I'm thinking its syncros or or bearings. But again, I don't know all of what's involved.

I just was playing with it.
I can't wiggle the shaft much by hand.. But if I push forward on the stick it pushes the shaft back considerably.. well 1/8"ish.

THat is, if I push on 1st or 3rd gear it pushes the shaft back. (this is after tapping the nut tighter)

I am assuming this is something that a shade tree mechanic without a serious shop can accomplish? I have no press.. But I could probably bring an empty housing to a shop with a press.

Is this easier than it looks? Or a total 3 legged bitch?

I can call around looking for shops that will touch a manual transmission from a 34 year old british vehicle.. but.. i'm stricken with dismay at the moment.

At the same time not wanting to spend 2500 bucks (2000 + freight i assume 500) It would be all rebuilt. Replacing thrust washers .. gears and such can easily get to 1000 bucks...+ work.. leaving the transfer case undone.
I don't know.
Is it throwing away money to put a transmission in one of these things..
I mean from a straight fiscal standpoint.