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#1 (permalink) |
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You can run, but you'll only die tired.
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 16
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I'm keeping my S3 my intent was to fix it well enough to run safely this summer with the gear box on It's way out and the condition of the frame I've decided this summers S3 driving will be a big negative.
So I pose these parameters to your thoughts... I (A US Dude) need a new frame, springs, bulkhead, seatbox, gas tank, gearbox rebuild, and I'm driving a 2.25 diesel with 90K miles on it (small amount of white smoke when I rev her up.) I'm not a purest actually thinking (dreaming) of a LS1-turbo400-atlas,on currie 9" arb's.. But realistically and financially for me an overhaul from the engine to the x-fer case on the new needed items adding a few incidentals as they rear their ugly heads wil be the best approach. I'd like to come out of the situation spending only $5-6K with a safe RELIABLE rover I'll be able to enjoy on and off road for years to come. What's a guy in the Florida Panhandle to do, aside from the obvious hurricane dodging... send to ECR??? I know these are kinda vague parameters but you thoughts/ideas/inspiration are always appreciated. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 72
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I dare say that if you want to spend $6k or less, ECR will not be an option. You are going to have to do a lot of work yourself. For some parts you may check with Brittanica Restorations or RDS.
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1987 Range Rover 1989 Range Rover 1995 Range Rover County LWB 1998 Range Rover 4.6HSE |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Elephantitis penisitis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,439
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Sell her for what you can and save up until you have a good 15K, then buy someone else's resto. I know, it's hard to part with loved ones but think about it this way... your current truck is an overweight girlfriend that you want to trade up for the hot new smokin' girl on campus.
You're welcome... |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,371
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Well you could do a frame swap. If you do it yourself and you are handy, you can get away under $4000. The gear box, is it on its way out, or is it the transfer case.. either way, they are not that hard to rebuild, and usually it is just bearing that need to be replaced (unless you know it is something other than bearings...) As for the engine 90k on a deisel, it still has life in it (you say there is only a small amount of smoke when you rev.. probably slightly out of tune rather than worn out....) If you do not want to do much modifications away from stock, you can PROBABY get it done on the budget. But make sure you order from England in large orders to get the shipping deals. (ie order all your gearsbox stuff with the frame...) The bulkhead, well it is steel, so make freinds with a welder right now, and make sure you buy him at least 3 beers a week from now till summer..... the seat box, well scour the net, they are there, you just gotta hunt....
And then there is always RoverX's option.... just remember, a rebuild will probably take you more than a year anyways, so you might have a bigger budget after the significant other gets tired of you in the shop all the time and leaves....... ![]()
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Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Series Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Lake district,UK
Posts: 532
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Quote:
I really think 5k is not enough for what you want to do as its all the little things that cost the money and this is what cripples the project I have obtained dozens of failed projects over the years for very little money for example some years ago I bought a half finished 109 SW for £400 it had an brand new chassis/bulkhead wiring loom and genuine Crated gearbox and 2.25 petrol engine,all because the guys wife had had enough of it sat on the drive it must have cost him thousands. So my advice if at all possible repair the chassis and the bulkhead and it sounds like your engine is fine just sounds like your injection timing is a little retarded but its nowt to worry about. what makes you think the gearbox is on its way out? Ta ONz
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Current fleet 86 90 V8 in bits 86 RR classic Under repair 94 Disco TDI 3dr ex-police 256k and still going 80" coil sprung V8 auto Trialer in progress 71 2a Trialer V8 auto,parabolics,6" shackles,power steering awesome machine Stuff I have had at one time or another 76 S3 LWB 65 2a ex mil swb 71 2a swb safari 67 2a 1 tonne TACR 57 S1 V8 SWB 81 S3 SWB diesel 82 s3 SWB diesel 82 RR 2 dr perkins diesel 83 RR 4dr V8 84 RR 4dr V8 LPG 83 RR 4dr V8 LPG "in vogue" 88 RR gm 6.2 V8 Diesel 89 RR 3.5 mazda TDi 75 S3 LWB stationwagon 75 S3 2.6 LWB 86 110 2.5D 91 disco V8 91 disco TDi 89 disco V8 81 RR isuzu 2.8 TD |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GREAT NW
Posts: 70
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I have to agree that it may be best if you sold it outright. I know that is a traumatic thought but ti will be worth it.
I spent over 10yrs searching before finally finding what I was looking for...believe me its worth the wait. Besides there are a lot of good deal out there right now, just take your time and look at as many as you can. Good Luck in your decision.
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1973 Series III 88 Stay Alert...Stay Alive.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Guilderland, NY
Posts: 790
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You can get a used gearbox for a couple of hundred bucks, a transfer case for 100 and a galvanized frame for 1500. Then it is just wrenching.
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"The Goat",1973 Series III coil conversion, Daihatsu 2.8 Td, power steering, dual ARBs Etc. '91 RRC, bone stock |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Owen Sound, Ontario
Posts: 41
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I think you could find a solid frame good running Series for about $8000 and I think that is the way to go. If you look only at money, I should too, but to me owning my Rover has more to it than just the money.
My Rover is mostly a basket case, and it's weird, but that's why I like it. I have a 4Runner for daily driving, but will fix up the Rover, maybe one major system a year until it is a nice Rig, but I still enjoy it every day and I enjoy working on it. But like I said, I don't need to rely on it for transportation. You have to ask yourself, is the restoration important to you, or is having a reliable nice running vehicle, no matter what the make or model, important to you. Basically, do you have "Landy Lunacy"? Also, as a more or less purist, if you are planning on putting a "LS1-turbo400-atlas,on currie 9" arb's" into anything, please put it in a Jeep. It could use them. ![]() But that's just my opinion, I have been drinking. ![]()
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1964 Series IIA 88" 2.25 L Petrol some rust, not one straight panel
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 35
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Rebuild yours yourself. That way you know exactly what you have in it, what has been done and what remains to be done. I have known too many people who have layed out big $ for a series someone else "restored" only to find out there was a lot left to do.
'better the devil you know than the devil you don't' |
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#11 (permalink) |
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You can run, but you'll only die tired.
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 16
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Thanks I guess I'll be collecting the parts and going frame off to replace them I'll take a week or two off and dive in at time allows. Lot's of great advise, this will give me time to gather finances and best prices. Welding I can do on Base at our auto hobby shop for cheap, Now into this for the help.
Incidentally, for your help I'll share my secret, Sadly It's only for US folks but the "same theme" might exist in other areas. For the DIY FABB Savvy folks: If you can get on to a Military base, the base recycling center is an eden of free scrap metal, I'm talking 20' sticks of angle iron, 4'x4' sheets of thick aluminum, DOM tubing, I've found all this and more, just load it up,free.. The kicker: Only AFTER you have approached the civilians that work there and told them your a hobbyist just looking for some scrap. Don't let your redneck jeep/suzuki friends F- this up (eden remember). They are usually buildings away from others with size able scrap heap out back, and located on any unclass base map, or just ask someone. Also Air Force bases are the best as aluminum and scrap is relatively corrosion free and abundant. Also if you dig/really have your eyes peeled/have a list.. sometimes aircraft components (like three position safety switches) and the like are out there. My advise: Don't come more than once every two weeks, don't dig and wrench out parts if anyone is looking (at lest give the appearance of being safety minded), And no red neck thrashing about. Telling you folks may be to the detriment of my bonanza, but I found it. So I'd ask you keep it as your secret, and let this thread fade into obscurity. again, thanks for the advise. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GREAT NW
Posts: 70
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A case of coke or pepsi works wonders too. Heps to confuse roving eyes and creates a friendlier environment. Besides its usually hot and dusty in the scrap yard.
__________________
1973 Series III 88 Stay Alert...Stay Alive.
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