i am seriously concidering going with 255/85 r16 bfg km2's for my next tire (spring time) and i think that i have reconciled with the fact that i will need to do some body lifting and fender trimming to make that happen but what i am not sure about is how long my axles will hold up. i understand the need for lower gearing and i would like a locker anyhow but i just dont have the cash after i purchase the tires.
so here are my questions:
1. how long will my current axles/carriers last with 33's?
2. can i just put in 24 spline stuff (arb/axle shafts) when it does break?
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Brian
1990 RRC
1996 Toyota Avalon - hers
1989 F-250
1994 Toyota Pickup
I ran stock axles for a few years with 255/85's with no issues just need to take it easy on the skinny pedal when I was off road. Also the truck was slow with stock gears.
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"If you can't stand behind our soldiers, then by all means stand in front of them." unknown author.
It is not the wheels that will kill the axles, it is if you change the gearing.
It is a lot harder to find HD axles in 10 spline. So if you are going to go all the way you should change the axles before fitting diff locks. That is if you purchase lockers for 10 spline axles, you will be up for some serious money to change them to 24 spline.
You will be fine, slower obviously on the highway, but in low box it will still be OK. You will have the feeling of less engine braking when going down steep hills though with the taller tyres.
If you stay away from serious rocks (ya, I know, how much rock action can a guy have with skinny 33's?), full power full lock turns and adopt a smooth driving style then I doubt you will break anything.
Stock and aftermarket 24 spline stuff is way easier to find here because that is what the Disco's run.
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"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" Charlie Croaker. The Italian Job. 1969.
I have been told the 95 Disco axles are a bolt it mod for our RRC. I think they are 24 spline, I hope cause I got a complete ft axle, rear axle, tranny, tcase and a drive shafts out of a 95 disco.
I have been told the 95 Disco axles are a bolt it mod for our RRC. I think they are 24 spline, I hope cause I got a complete ft axle, rear axle, tranny, tcase and a drive shafts out of a 95 disco.
Yes, they will bolt in. No, they are not 24 spline.
IIRC all the 24 spline axles, CV's and diff's are interchangeable between the DI and RRC. Calipers and rotors are different though as Range Rovers have better brakes.
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"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" Charlie Croaker. The Italian Job. 1969.
great thats just what i wanted to hear. i was finding a lot of the 24 spline stuff after-market so that makes sense. I think that i am going to do the 255's then and start to save up for the 24 spline set up for the future. what gears would you guys go with for the 33's?
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Brian
1990 RRC
1996 Toyota Avalon - hers
1989 F-250
1994 Toyota Pickup
If you want to swap over to a 24 spline setup you will need to replace the axle shafts and the diff. if you don't want to replace the diff you will have to replace the inners of a 24 spline diff (spider gears, etc).
Just remember, your next weakest link are the crosspins. On my 95 DI I've already broken 2 of them in the rear diff. I am running heavy duty axles in the rear and Simex Tires (which have good grip on rock and mud). I run 4.11s with 34" tires.
P76rangie, 90% RRC/D1 trucks in US are autos. Most of the breakage occurs when wheels spin in the air and come down on a rock or flat surface.
I have axles (front and back) for $100, diffs (front and back) for $200.... so to upgrade to 24 splines would cost around $300 plus shipping.
If I were you I'd go with 235 85 16s, requires a 2.5-3" lift and no trimming. Also keeps your turning radius.
Here's a pic of my LWB with 235 85s:
On my 94 LWB I run 235/85 Goodyear Wranglers M/T and did not trim:
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John C
1999 DI - LR HD Springs
1996 DI - parting out
1995 DI - parting out Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit
1994 RRC LWB - 3" AG lift
1991 RR - parting out (few parts left)
1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai - parting out
1989 Kawasaki KLR650
1988 Kawasaki KLR650 - parting out
1979 Puch XK
1980 Puch Magnum MKII
1980 Puch Magnum MKII - parting out
yea, i have been really waffleing around 235 vs 255. i have a 2" lift now and was thinking about a body lift between 1-2" with some trimming. i dont mind some trimming. the problem with the 235's is they are not much larger then the 245/75's that are on there now.
I have liked the performance of the RRC so far but the trails that most my buddies drive seem to need 33's or so!?! i will look at the pics of your ride when i get home (stupid firewall). but i was thinking about a detroit truetrack in the rear anyway and so my though was. save up and buy a 24 spline TT then get aftermarket 24 spline axles anyhow, then i think i will need new drive flanges also.
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Brian
1990 RRC
1996 Toyota Avalon - hers
1989 F-250
1994 Toyota Pickup
The truetrac is a limited slip, and therefore a little easier on axles, but for the bother I would go with a full locker like ARB, Ashcroft or Detroit. The stock Rover two pin diff, 10 or 24 spline is only really good for stock (or close to stock), mild wheeling.
If you are planing to wheel harder stuff run the wider, taller tyre. With a heavy RRC+winch +gear etc. aired down skinny's loose a lot of sidewall height, reducing clearance and tend to sink in soft ground. I run 285/75R16 for this reason.
I would also cut the wheel arch. Not only does it help with COG but is also cheap.
You can get away with the stock 3.55:1 gears (standard RRC/Disco gears) but 4.11:1 is a good ratio for 33's. However if you do change ratio you will likely start breaking stock axle shafts.
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"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" Charlie Croaker. The Italian Job. 1969.
Since I have the 24 spline complete axles from a 95 d is it worth the swap if I would like to run 255's or 33's someday? I have a 2in OME lift and stock sheetmetal. i want to do mild wheeling on trails no rocks etc for now. Is there someone who has a long travel kit for RRC?
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