1990 RR Classic Newbie....feeling the pain early!

[Ken McGlynn]

I just bought a 1990 RR County, 146,000 miles, extremely well-maintained (with the documentation to prove it), great looking in and out, and I can't even get it home without a breakdown.

It ran great for the first 200 miles out of a 250 trip home. Dash lights for low coolant followed by the ignition (battery icon) comes on. Pull over, everything looks sound, no hint of overheating, so continue on. Stop for gas and then the car won't start. Get a jump, car starts and get a mile down the road before all hell breaks loose. Loss of power, speedometer and tachometer stop working,and now I'm looking for a safe place to pull over. Limp in and the car completely dies.

Any help for Rangie newbie who absolutely LOVED the first 200 miles?

Thanks. Ken.

[ArmyRover]

your alternator is weak or dead replace it and make sure to check the coolant level.

[Ken McGlynn]

Originally Posted by ArmyRover

your alternator is weak or dead replace it and make sure to check the coolant level.

Geez Army, am I going to get off that easy?

[ArmyRover]

On the charging issues probably. On the coolant it depends on where it's going. If it has a leaking hose not a big deal but if it's a headgasket issue than your in for lots of fun.

[atvsmurf]

x2 on the alt... charge the battery overnight and it should run fine for a little bit, then the same symptoms will pop up again... that will confirm it...

[ArmyRover]

or pull the alternator and have it tested lol

[skucera]

I had the same problem the night we drove our Rover home after buying it. The headlights grew dimmer and dimmer, and the engine started to run rough, then finally I coasted to the side of the road. Luckily my wife was following in our trusty Olds wagon, so we used that to jump charge the Rover's battery, and we made it the last six miles home.

When I told the seller that we never even made it home without a breakdown, he refunded $100 of the sale price so we could go buy a rebuilt alternator. (That was the first and only time that anyone who sold me a car gave me money back on the deal.) Oddly enough, that one came with a bad voltage regulator, which overcharged and boiled the battery. We got the replacement alternator on warranty and it's been great ever since.

Scott

[Elemental]

Best thing you can do, if you are mechanically inclined, is Convert your bracketry to accept a GM 12Ci Alternator.

Cheap, reliable and avalible everywhere!

[ArmyRover]

I' just scored a 120amp bosch off a vw for 35 bucks so I'm heading that route

[Ken McGlynn]

Update on power issue:

Unfortunately living in an unpopulated area like the Southern Oregon coast, my options for a Rover-experienced auto mechanic doesn't exist. The local foreign car guy says its not the alternator...tests fine....maybe a belt. He'll get into it next week. Any other thoughts from the true experts out there?

[skucera]

Ken,

The Lucas alternator on the Range Rover works the same way as all other alternators with integral voltage regulators, so standard alternator testers should give valid test results. If your guy says the alternator is good, it may well be. Did he test your battery too? A bad battery will takes bucketloads of charging, but not store any usable charge. A battery tester at any auto parts store should be able to give you that answer.

Scott

[GDEclassic]

buy an alternator from checker with a warranty and keep replacing it until you get one that lasts for longer than a week. Thats my experience, but if your tac is dead. alternator. Welcome to Land Rover.

[Ken McGlynn]

Army Rover, atvsmurf, Skucera, Elemental, GDE Classic...thanks for all the input. My gut feeling is alternator, I'll find out this week and report. Ken.

[Ken McGlynn]

Originally Posted by Ken McGlynn

Army Rover, atvsmurf, Skucera, Elemental, GDE Classic...thanks for all the input. My gut feeling is alternator, I'll find out this week and report. Ken.

Lucked out on this one....diagnosis, alternator belt. New issue brewing however, see new post.