1994 RRC 4.2L has a problem starting, stalling, and idling. - Land Rovers Only

brewmaster · 10-31-2009, 04:02 PM

I've just experienced a problem that is giving me the most difficult time trying to troubleshoot. It all started when the vehicle stalled while driving. It was acting like it was out of fuel. I pulled over and the vehicle started but had problems idling. No check engine light. I checked the usual: spark,fuel pump/filter for proper operation. The next day I moved the vehicle into the garage and it never started again. It cranked over but would not start. I put the battery on a charger and tried the next morning and it was extremely hard to start but it did. It would stall once I put it in gear. Then it was next to impossible to start again. When it did it would idle in park for about a minute or so and stall. When I keep the vehicle at a high rpm it will stay running. So the higher demand of fuel does not seem to be the problem.
So far I've changed the air flow meter for a good used one. I've cleaned the Idle air valve. (I did notice that the little plunger on the stepper motor only vibrates when the ignition is turned on then off it never moved forward or back is that normal?) Sometimes trying to start I seem to get a backfire from the air plenum.

57loboy · 11-02-2009, 06:55 AM

When it stalls, you need to figure out whether you still have spark and fuel. If one or the other is missing, you need to track it down from there. Common failures that can do what you describe are: cap, rotor, ignition module, fuel filter (clogged), fuel pressure regulator (have you checked the psi?). Once you've narrowed down the issue, the diagnosis becomes easier...
BTW - if you energized the stepper without it being installed, you've likely damaged it - they shouldn't be energized when uninstalled. If it's caked in carbon, just spray it with some appropriate cleaner to get the gunk off and reinstall.

OkieRover · 11-04-2009, 10:12 PM

I'm remembering my ignition module problems. Has your truck been modified to move the ignition module off the side of the distributor?

When the ignition module is on the distributor it heats up and kills the coil. Which can give you a lot of trouble.

I don't have that written up on my site but the instructions on the kits are usually good.

57loboy · 11-05-2009, 06:47 AM

actually, the heat kills the module, that's why it was relocated from the side of the distributor to the rad support near the coil. The coil has always been mounted away from the engine...

OkieRover · 11-05-2009, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57loboy

actually, the heat kills the module, that's why it was relocated from the side of the distributor to the rad support near the coil. The coil has always been mounted away from the engine...

I just re-read my post. I guess I didn't make that as clear as it could have been.

brewmaster · 11-05-2009, 12:05 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll try this next. Is the new module the same as the original? Just remotely mounted or is different. Where is the best place to purchace one?

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57loboy · 11-05-2009, 12:27 PM

If you have a 95, it's already remote mounted. They moved them mid production, but I forget which year. The usual sources for LR parts have the module, there are those that convert to a GM equivalent but I hear that leads to more issues more often than not. The test procedure is pretty well documented in the RAVE cd.

brewmaster · 11-05-2009, 04:08 PM

I checked the spark one again and I noticed the arc was yellow not blue. I decided to try a new coil. The beast started right up! Ran perfect

. The coil I used was a generic 12 volt coil. It heated up fast. So I shut the vehicle off. I'm going to get a OEM coil in the morning. Do you think I could have something else wrong that burnt out my old coil?

57loboy · 11-05-2009, 04:41 PM

they do fail on their own. Get the one specific to the vehicle to avoid the issue you described with the generic one. OEM is Bosch...