1995 Classic- Newbie with Questions!

[Bevan]

After deciding my '98 4.0SE wasn't a practical car I sold it and bought a BMW. We had weather that was less than kind to us last year and I decided I didn't want to face another winter without an all wheel drive vehicle so I bought a soft dash classic as a winter car.

It has 150k mi on the clock so it has been driven, but is in decent shape. I just took it on a 600 mile trip and it had a few teething issues. Mostly the fact that it has the "death rattle" when going over bumps at 70mph. I also had a leaking heater hose that gave a decent fright for a few minutes until I realized it was a hose and not something worse. On the way back the rig obviously decided it was too refined so the exhaust is now making a horrible sound (haven't crawled under to look yet)

I have done a fair bit of reading on these respective questions I just thought I would post and get to know everyone and hear some more opinions.

Firstly, I am Canadian and I purchased this vehicle in the USA so I have a few odd questions. Here in Canada we believe in DRL's so in order to pass inspection I need to figure out how to get the lights on with the key. Are there any Canadian members who can tell me if how their rig's lights work? Do all the lights come on or just the marker lights or highs at a reduced brightness? Do you think I should find the original relays and try to do it that way? Where could I find these to order and which fuse box are they in? I downloaded the RAVE and I can see reference to them but I haven't exhausted all the detailed views yet. My other option is a universal DRL kit from a store like Canadian Tire.

Also I need the brakes done pronto. They for sure will not pass inspection. I have priced out a few kits from the usual suspects online and the prices seem reasonable but the shipping scares me a bit. I would probably ship to WA and go pick them up. Anyone in Seattle area who has figured out the cheapest option for brake parts? I need all rotors and pads and sensors.

The truck has new driving lights but they work only sometimes. I am thinking it's the switch as I have better luck getting them to come on whilst jiggling it (for about 20 mins haha!) Can I rebuild that spring switch with success or am I better off getting a new one? I also had the thought maybe I could rig up the driving lights as my DRL's for the sake of the inspection.

Also a number of my switches are burned out. I am assuming there is a bulb in each one? Is this replaceable? Cruise doesn't work which isn't a huge issue... the PO said it worked though so maybe I can't figure out how to set it? The dash light comes on when the switch is pressed but if I pull the 'set' button on the steering wheel it won't hold the speed at all.

I ripped out the nineties car phone that crowded the passenger space and when disconnecting the phone wires I saw a huge box unplugged under the passenger seat. It is a black plug with many prongs. I didn't know what it is for and didn't plug it back in as I am thinking it was unplugged for a reason...

The rear screen defogger switch doesn't illuminate at all when pressed and the light on the front screen defogger doesn't come on when the switch is turned on but randomly illuminates while driving. I have checked many fuses and the such in the car and all seem good. I must be missing some boxes though... is this a common issue? Maybe with a common fix? If only.

Fuse 12 in the front fascia was pulled so that explains why no warning chimes worked and the lights didn't light with the door, however upon replacement there is a constant beep while driving. Is this the transfer case neutral sound? I read about a purple wire needing to be cut? Where is this wire located? It is nice to have all the other things working. I was all excited when I saw the puddle lights under the doors!

My front speakers are blown, but I can fix that easily tomorrow. There is an aftermarket stereo already. Also neither seat heater works. Passenger switch doesn't illuminate even. Is this do do with the black box under the seat? Movement of all motors in both seats is good.

OK I think that covers my concerns for now... I am sure all of these topics have been covered in detail if I had the patience to read, so thank you for extending graciousness to a noob.

I have enjoyed the truck so far despite all it's issues. I have taken the headliner down to cover already and cleaned all the carpeting. It looks spiffier already! I really need to get the exhaust fixed tomorrow as it is going to be embarrassing driving around town making so much racket.

Sorry for the novel, thanks all for your insight!

[57loboy]

For brakes, the kits from BritishPacific, AB, and others aren't bad and can include everything you need for the customary brake job. You mention sensors - are you referring to the wear sensors or the ABS sensors? The ABS ones are pricey, the wear sensors most people ignore/disable by not using the wire.

For DRLs, I've got no ideas - when GM put them in everything in the late 90s, I just pulled the fuse to disable them. Not sure if any were set up that way from the factory, I defer to the Canadian Rover owners for guidance there.

The box under the passenger seat was/is the ECU for the air suspension. No harm in leaving it there. It was unplugged when your truck was converted to coil springs.

Fuse 12 and the chime is a mystery to me, though there is a chime if the Borg Warner t-case is converted to an LT230 and the conversion isn't completed by disabling certain connectors. I've not done it so I can't confirm this is the case for you.

Seat heaters fail early in the life of a Rover, usually from the lower squab. I replaced mine with universal carbon fiber ones from ebay and spliced them into the existing harness. The PS box has nothing to do with them.

If you want replacement factory speakers and the other switches such as the rear defogger, driving light switch, PM me as I have them from a '95. As for your other questions, they are all "typical" RRC issues that are entirely solvable.

Pick up the service manual on CD and you'll be set for a long time! Good luck!

[Bevan]

Thanks for your reply. I ordered brakes so that should be fine. It makes sense that the box is the air suspension controls.

So the transfer case in mine doesn't warn when in neutral? What else would cause a warning chime to sound when the truck is running fine. Startup chime plays and then just keeps a steady tone all the while when in run. I really enjoy having the lights come on with the door and having all the warning bells working again. I left my marker lights on the other day.

My exhaust issue is now my predominate worry. It seems the Y Pipe housing the cats is cracked and a local exhaust shop said it had to be replaced. Of course they don't have it! I knew what I was getting into with this one but it all is happening so fast! I see people talking about catco cats, but I need to order the entire assembly. I saw an entire assembly on a*topartswearhouse for around $400.00? Is this reasonable? I have read all the horrible things about this website but I can swallow the price easier than others.

I plan on replacing the speakers with aftermarket, thanks for the offer though. I may take you up on the driving light switch, I did find a used one locally I am just going to see how much they want for it.

DRL's still on the back of my mind, I need to get the fuel tank recall done and DRL's of some sort to pass the federal inspection, then get the exhaust and brakes done to pass provincial inspection and smog testing! Nothing like car repairs under pressure! I think I have 20 something days left before inspections have to be done.

[57loboy]

If the y-pipe itself is good, then many people weld in replacement cats. If the pipe is cracked, I'd just replace the y-pipe. That's what I did on my LWB. For a SWB model, $400 sounds about right but be sure that website is supply you the one for a Classic and not a P38...

[SeattleRRC]

I had a cat replaced yesterday, cut & weld. Very simple. No need to buy a complete system. Also, if the cost to replace a cracked y-pipe is high you might consider just doing true dual exhaust out the back... =)

If you're going to have the exhaust work welded at a shop, just have them order the parts for you. I discovered that their price on parts was within $10 of buying online but I didn't have to pay for shipping. They can usually get these parts in 24hrs from a central parts warehouse. Cheaper, then they own the problem if the wrong parts are ordered.

Regarding switches, don't both rebuilding just get new ones. Check your grounds too - the intermittant driving light issue definitely sounds like a grounding problem. The bulbs behind switches are very easy to replace, switches pop right out.

I don't know anything about converting to daytime running lights.

[Bevan]

Yeah the Y Pipe is cracked right where it bolts up on the driver's side. The exhaust place I went to who are pretty good couldn't find the Y-Pipe anywhere in their parts catalogs. The piece I found online is for sure for 100" Classic so I think I am just going to order that up and get them to put it in. The cats themselves are relatively fine I am presuming. Not too much noise from them, the problem is just that the pipe cracked for some reason. Better to have all new anyways as the truck will be getting smog tested here for the first time in a few weeks.

I will check the grounds for my electrical gremlins. Thanks for the tip. I have decided to get a universal DRL module and wire it up to the factory driving lamps. I am working on that later today. I am going to wire it up so when I turn the key on the driving lights come on, but when I turn the parking lights, the driving lights will turn off and then be operable by the switch as usual. This will also help identify the driving light issue I am having.

I found the transfer box warning relay in the RAVE so I am going to pop that out later today and see if that cures the annoying beeping sound when Fuse 12 is in. Fingers crossed.

[Bevan]

Just thought I would let anyone know if they had the same issue, my noise after start up was for sure the transfer box warning chime... behind glove box far right bright green relay on my late '95 build... pulling that allowed everything to work except the stupid chime thinking my transfer case was in neutral.

Ordered the exhaust from autopartswarehouse used coupon code so ended up being about $350. Not as cool as doing true dual exhaust I know, but it will work for now.

Trying to get a hold of local dealer to get the fuel tank recall done, not returning my calls... very frustrating!