1995 Range Rover 4.0 Won't Start

[troverman]

The Range Rover won't start. Relay 16 (Starter Motor Relay) gets no ground signal from the BeCM; thus the engine does not crank. Jumping those terminals spins the engine over, but does not start the engine, even with the ignition on. Traced the ground that should be appearing on the relay when the key is turned to start, and it goes to a white / red wire into the yellow plug on the front of the BeCM. There is continuity, so no break. BeCM was replaced in the year 2000. Alarm seems to work fine; locks / unlocks as usual. When attempting to start, all the warning lights come on as usual, ABS pump, etc. Fuel pump runs momentarily and then shuts off unless I jump that relay where it runs continuously. It gets the ground signal, as do the rest of the relays. Nothing else is different with the vehicle, every single other function works fine--no sign of impending BeCM failure at all. I have tried everything and need help. First--why won't the car start when the ignition is on and the starter relay terminals are jumped (car cranks over?) Is the car immobilized somehow? On the BeCM it is the yellow plug (larger one I think) terminal #2 white / red striped wire which should be sending the ground signal. Its not. What is the condition which causes the BeCM to send that ground signal? Ignition switch prob? Ignition switch operates everything else fine. The BeCM clicks when you turn the key to start. Car has 139k on it runs great. Just drove it somewhere and then home, ran fine, then it wouldn't start. Died across the street and had to use the RR Classic to drag it home in transfer neutral.

Any ideas? ETM BeCM chart?

[shiftech]

More info needed,is it a manual or auto

[troverman]

ZF 4-Spd Autobox. There is no manual option in the US. I am going to try to look at the neutral switch today, driver's side of the trans I guess. (US=left side of vehicle) It would be helpful to know which wire goes to what though, or any other ideas!

I unplugged the ignition switch yesterday-there are four wires in the plug. Three have 12V, one is a ground. I don't think there is a problem here.

[Kevin88RRC]

Did you try cleaning the starter motor relay? That was my problem a couple weeks ago.

[troverman]

Took out and cleaned entire fusebox, all conections, relays, fuses, etc. Fusebox is in good shape. I tested the relay-works fine-even swapped it. Problem is, the ground signal is not actually appearing to the fuse box terminal, which I traced to it not being sent from the BeCM terminal #2 yellow plug. Question is, why is the BeCM not sending the signal? I'm hoping it is because the neutral switch is junk and not allowing it to start.

[hamrendan]

I bought my 96 4.6 that had a new BeCM because the window. mirrors and some other stuff wouldn't work on it.. Arent these things prone to going bad.??

I wonder what it would cost you to get a used one.?? I found engine ECU's for as low as $200.00 and there are some other shops showing a BCM with no prices..but i am not sure this is the same thing ( computer box not engine)

Hmm sounds like you know what your doing as far as tracing the problem, but I know that those things may be prone to go bad and yes they are major bux!!

Good luck and let us know what you find out..

[scoobymick]

Originally Posted by troverman

The Range Rover won't start. Relay 16 (Starter Motor Relay) gets no ground signal from the BeCM; thus the engine does not crank. Jumping those terminals spins the engine over, but does not start the engine, even with the ignition on. Traced the ground that should be appearing on the relay when the key is turned to start, and it goes to a white / red wire into the yellow plug on the front of the BeCM. There is continuity, so no break. BeCM was replaced in the year 2000. Alarm seems to work fine; locks / unlocks as usual. When attempting to start, all the warning lights come on as usual, ABS pump, etc. Fuel pump runs momentarily and then shuts off unless I jump that relay where it runs continuously. It gets the ground signal, as do the rest of the relays. Nothing else is different with the vehicle, every single other function works fine--no sign of impending BeCM failure at all. I have tried everything and need help. First--why won't the car start when the ignition is on and the starter relay terminals are jumped (car cranks over?) Is the car immobilized somehow? On the BeCM it is the yellow plug (larger one I think) terminal #2 white / red striped wire which should be sending the ground signal. Its not. What is the condition which causes the BeCM to send that ground signal? Ignition switch prob? Ignition switch operates everything else fine. The BeCM clicks when you turn the key to start. Car has 139k on it runs great. Just drove it somewhere and then home, ran fine, then it wouldn't start. Died across the street and had to use the RR Classic to drag it home in transfer neutral.

Any ideas? ETM BeCM chart?

Hi TROVERMAN,
You are obviously comfortable with electrics so here goes,unbolt and carefully lift the under bonnet fusebox (risk of shorting out) locate C508 pink 8 way connector underneath the fusebox and using a voltmeter to earth,backprobe pin 1 brown/red,with ignition in crank position if you see battery voltage then the brown/red wire or starter solenoid are at fault.
Next locate C177 slate/grey 8 way connector,should be next to C508. Disconnect it and with voltmeter to earth,probe the fusebox pin that relates to the white/red terminal in the block,with ignition off you should get battery voltage. If you don't then the fault lies within the fusebox assy or the relay.
So lastly,assuming you do see battery voltage,access C113 yellow 10 way at the BeCM (front,top right). Disconnect and voltmeter to earth,probe pin 2 white/red,you should see battery voltage. If you don't then the white/red wire is faulty,if you do then test the ignition switch and the earth to the ignition switch. If they check out ok,i'm sorry to say it sounds like a BeCM internal failure.
Hope this is of use to you and that you can sort it out ok.
Mick

[John C]

Is there an inertia switch on 95 models? Just a thought.

Good luck,

John

[troverman]

OK-yes inertia switch-not tripped unfortunantly. THanks for info, Mick. I came across this on John Brabyn's RR net. I believe this is the problem: When the ignition is turned to start, 48ms delay normal before engine starts. In this time, a start signal is sent to BeCM under seat. THis then relays a security check serial signal to the Engine Management computer under the hood (bonnet.) If all is well, the engine mgt computer should send an ok signal back to BeCM under seat, which will then send that ground signal to the starter relay #16 and car wil start.

On my car, upon turning key to start, the BeCM under the seat clicks. Good. However, apparently the "all's well" signal from the Engine Mgt Comp is not coming back. Thus, the BeCm is operating correctly in not starting the car.

The info provided is also reassuring in another way. I couldn't figure out how the car wouldn't run if I jumpered the starter relay and there was power with the ignition on to the other relevant relays. Well, if the engine mgt. is not sending the ok signal back to BeCM, then obviously even though there is power to the Engine Mgt, it is not functioning. THis explains why the engine will not run of course.

One thing of interest is that if the ok signal is given by the engine mgt, the output is to the instrument pack check engine light, which under normal conditions should light momentarily during startup and then go out. When it lights, this is how the BeCM recieves the OK to Start signal, and then provides the gound at relay 16. Since owning my car, the check engine light has never come on, even though the car has run fine for 6k miles. I doubt it is burnt out, but maybe unplugged? The car has gotten 18mpg on the highway before, and has new 02 sensors and cats replced as part of a recall, so I don't know why it would be unplugged because I don't anticipate any emissions failures. Today I will check the MIL light and see if unplugged. Car looks like it has been stripped! No door panels, no console panels, shifter out, steering column apart, floor panels and finishers off, inst. pack out! The question is: cheap or $$$ fix!?

[troverman]

Well, the check engine light in the car DID have the bulb removed, as well as the Service Engine light, so this is why they never lit up during the initial startup bulb check. I put another bulb in the Check Engine spot, did not light up during start attempt. Put the same bulb in the Service Engine spot, it lit right up. So I guess this indicates a security issue in the Engine Mgt.
SO....Unless anyone has more tests to run or a way to emergency start the vehicle, it will be towed to Land Rover of Bedford, NH sometime this week. The tow will run $200, and then it will be $100 / hr for diagnostics / computer reset. Hope it doesn't take too long!

[troverman]

End of story--had the car towed to Land Rover of Bedford NH and had the car back the same day by 2:00 pm. Wallet a little lighter, but at least they vacuumed out the car and actually washed it! They did the "F-Out" procedure and reset a couple of other things. Thanks for the input. Running fine now...