2" Suspension Lift, Spring Conversion & Headers - Parts & Recommendations?? *PICS*

[Jigsaw89]

Hello All,
I'm thinking about swapping out the air suspension parts from my 1995 Classic to traditional shocks & springs. In the process I'd like to also add 2" of lift and bigger tires (LT265-75-R16 on stock rims). I've seen one piece as well as two piece black as well as bare aluminum coil spacer kits available for sale on the internet. Which is better, one piece or two piece and can you recommend a spring kit to compliment new Bilstein shocks & steering stabilizer??

Is 2" of suspension lift the preferred method of raising a Classic's ride height vs 2" of body lift? How does a lifted Classic handle vs OEM? Is there anything else that requires changing when going the route of lifting the suspension or body (ie longer drive shafts)?

Also, does anyone recommend a proven header system for a stateside Rover Classic? Conforming to emissions requirements is not a concern.

Pictured below is my white 1995 Classic (with NRP stainless cat back exhaust and K&N air filter) as well as a black 1995 Classic with 2" of body lift (taken from ebay).

Your informative recommendations are much appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan

[pie4foou]

umm i dont know about the 95' but my 93' kinda handles like shit after i lifted it with big blues(on it when i bought it) and the 2 in body from rovertym.com its just kinda "loose" on the highway and stuff... and yes i had to make the steering shaft longer by 5/8" ... rovertym.com was a pretty good help to me they answered a lot of questions i had. about he handling.... its not soooooooo bad, i mean i got used to it really quick and its fine for me to drive, but when my girlfriend drives it, its a little scary.... weavyyyyyyyyyy. oh one other thing, rovertym offers some kinda thing thats supposed to restore your steering back after having a lift, but they added that after i had already put my lift on. i think you have to send something to them and they machine it down... i dont just go to rovertym.com

[Cris_RRC]

I have a 93 LWB with 2inch suspencion lift and handles very well since I have the OME HD springs and OEM shocks the truck is planted well to the ground and it doesn't roll as much on the turns ,the bad side is a stiffer suspencion going thru pot holes and bad roads is way more bouncy than air suspencion ,and with suspencion lift you dont have to mess with any other alterations ,hope this helps.

[cellulararrest]

Originally Posted by pie4foou

umm i dont know about the 95' but my 93' kinda handles like shit after i lifted it with big blues(on it when i bought it)

Not to start another debate but that's probably because Big Blues well... suck. Stick some RTE or OME's under there and you'll be a happy guy! The ride is far superior.

[Funrover]

Go with RTE or OME!!!!

[Jigsaw89]

Thanks for the responses, guys! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to receive.

Just so I’m perfectly clear on what’s the RIGHT way to go about lifting my 1995 Rover Classic SWB for 85% street use, I should purchase the following:
- 2” coil suspension spacer kit
- RTE or OME springs designed for 2” of suspension lift
- OME or Bilstein shocks
- OME or Bilstein steering dampener (might as well replace the dampener while I’m under the truck)
- LT265-75-R16 tires on stock rims to fill up the larger wheel gap

Is that it or am I forgetting something?

As for RTE springs vs OME springs and OME shocks vs Bilstein shocks… which combo is best recommended for 85% street driving with occasional (mild) offroad use and boat hauling? I’d prefer a stiffer ride like a sports car over a Cadillac-like bouncing effect. If you can share your experiences it would greatly help me to decide.

Thanks!
Dan

[cellulararrest]

Won't need spacers unless you want an insane amount of lift. Springs alone will give you enough

RTE 2" springs usually end up netting more around 2.5 - 3 inches of lift whereas OME usually is just under or around 2". (I recommend RTE).

OME shocks are stiffer and better for handling heavy loads. Whereas Bilsteins give you a cushier ride (not necessarily 7100's).

Don't get a Bilstein steering damper... Bad for your power steering. Too stiff. OME is where it's at for that.

[p76rangie]

The easiest way to get around a 2 inch lift is to put the standard rear springs in the front and then purchase appropriate springs for the rear.

I have found OME shocks very soft.

I also have a very stiff steering damper and have not had any issues with the power steering. It has taken away a lot of the vagueness from the spring lift.

[cellulararrest]

I think the issue with the bilstein steering damper is the direction of charge? Matt at Overland Engineering was talking about it. I'll see if I can find the thread.

[Cris_RRC]

Originally Posted by Jigsaw89

- LT265-75-R16 tires on stock rims to fill up the larger wheel gap

Dan

I dont know if the 265's will tug well ,you may have to think about trimming the fenders for this size ,I have the 235/85 and tug very well un full flex.
Also have OEM steering dumper and never had a problem feels perfect.

[John C]

265/75s will fit fine on the Rangie with a 2" or more lift.... you just have to trim a bit inside the rear wheel well...

As far as headers go, you can go with the HH even thought they are meatn for RHD vehicles (less than $150 shipped), you just need to bang them in a bit to clear the steering shaft or you can go with Janspeed (which are thicker and more expensive) and not have to bang them out or add O2 holes.

[cellulararrest]

Found the thread...

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12463

[Jigsaw89]

OK, here’s a summary of responses to this thread as well as a synopsis of what I’ve read in my forum search & learned from speaking to those who have limited personal experience…

Anything above 2” of suspension lift & you're opening the door for more necessary upgrades & potential problems. Stock OEM airbags are approximated at front 189 lbs/in & rear 225 lbs/in.

OME medium duty springs (front #761 @ 200 lbs/in linear & rear #764 @ 290 lbs/in linear) are best for those that do not & will not load their Rover down with a heavy front bumper/winch or wench and other accessories! LOL These springs are good for an honest 1.5” lift over stock when unloaded and perform well on the road as well as offroad as an upgrade one step beyond stock. OME heavy duty springs (front #751 @ 230 lbs/in linear & rear #762 @ 300-340 lbs/inch progressive) will yield approximately 1.5" lift when vehicle is loaded and 2” when unloaded. OME springs are on the conservative side when it comes to lift.

OME heavy duty shocks (front #N115 & rear #N44) are the favored choice to pair with either the medium duty or heavy duty shocks and are a little softer than Bilstein 5100’s. OME’s have 1” more travel which is better suited for offroad ability, but build quality & longevity of the shocks have come into question as compared to the Bilstein’s.

RTE medium duty springs (front #RR2 @ 189 lbs/in linear) are comparable to OME medium duty springs. RTE heavy duty springs (front #RR4 @ 240 lbs/in linear & rear #RR3 @ 285-325 lbs/in progressive) will yield approximately 2” lift when vehicle is loaded and 2.5” when unloaded. RTE alternative heavy duty springs (rear #RR1 @ 300-349 lbs/in progressive) will yield the same approximate 2” lift when vehicle is loaded and 2.5” when unloaded, but will have a considerable truck-type feel when driving on the road unloaded. RTE front #RR4 & rear #RR1 springs seem like the way to go for someone who will graduate from a beginner offroad enthusiast to mild enthusiast without drastically compromising their on road drivability. Beyond a mild application you will be left with no choice but to go beyond a 3” lift to accommodate your vehicle safety and offroad prowess.

The jury is still out regarding which steering damper is best… OME or Bilstein.

Please share your factual based opinions & constructive comments.
Thanks!
Dan

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by Jigsaw89

OME medium duty springs (front #761 @ 200 lbs/in linear & rear #764 @ 290 lbs/in linear)

Are you sure that 764's are 290lbs. Some references quote them as being 240 and 781's are 290.

You should note that OME do not do lifts. The springs are designed for vehicles carrying extra weight. The springs are around the same length as stock springs. Therefore your lift is at the expense of spring movement and therefore axle movement.

Landrover make a large range of springs of different weights and lengths. You have a better chance of achieving what you want with genuine springs than with the limited range offered by aftermarket places.

Originally Posted by Jigsaw89

OME heavy duty shocks (front #N115 & rear #N44) are the favored choice to pair with either the medium duty or heavy duty shocks and are a little softer than Bilstein 5100’s. OME’s have 1” more travel

It is actually 0.6 inches extra travel if you want to get technical.

Originally Posted by Jigsaw89

RTE heavy duty springs (front #RR4 @ 240 lbs/in linear (rear #RR1 @ 300-349 lbs/in progressive) RTE front #RR4 & rear #RR1 springs seem like the way to go for someone who will graduate from a beginner offroad enthusiast to mild enthusiast without drastically compromising their on road drivability.

You are getting into fairly stiff springs with the ones you have listed.

[Paul Grant]

I have to agree with Ian about using Land Rover genuine springs. I always scratch my head in wonder when I read all these threads about which springs to use. No one offers the variety and no one has done the level of testing that Land Rover has with their springs. Give Rovers North a call and they can help you select the exact springs to help you achieve your ends.

As far as Bilstein steering dampers causing the truck to pull to one side, this was an issue about eight or ten years ago. However, I haven't heard a real complaint about them in many years. It's amazing how long a story can keep circulating on the web. I've had Bilstein dampers on most of my Range Rovers over the years and have never experienced a problem.