'93 RRC Won't Start - Land Rovers Only

texasdiver72 · 10-24-2009, 10:58 PM

I bought my first RRC today and I couldn't be happier with it... actually maybe I could. The previous owner sold it cheap as he couldn't get it to start. I've wanted one for a long time, so I couldn't pass it up. At $500 I consider it a good deal as the body is straight and the interior has minimal wear and tear.

A) The gearshift is locked in park
B) The engine turns over with gusto, but will not start. In fact, it doesn't even try to fire.

I've read quite a bit here, and have checked most of the possible issues I've found so far. I checked and the brake lights are functioning properly, so I don't think this is an issue with the brake switch.

Your thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

FlagRover · 10-25-2009, 08:52 AM

Do you have a little button next to the shifter that allows you to take it out of park without the brake on? Just a thought on that. Not sure if the two are related. Sounds like the brake light switch is shot.

texasdiver72 · 10-25-2009, 03:53 PM

I do have the little button to take it out of park. I can get it to switch through the gears, etc., but don't want to have to do that every time.

If the brake switch was out would the brakes lights work? They do now, so based on what I've read here I was thinking it was something else.

texasdiver72 · 10-25-2009, 04:45 PM

Also, a new development: While the truck won't start on it's own, it cranks very well. I tried a little starting fluid and it fired right up. Then died again once it burned off the starting fluid.

I'm assuming now that the not starting issue is fuel related.

daniels disco · 10-25-2009, 05:45 PM

Heres my 2 cents worth: on the shift problem- remove the shift handle cover and check the e-clip on the shaft that releases the gear lock. Also consider changing the brake light switch even if the brake lights are working properly, just to rule out the problem.

On the fuel issues, I would suggest checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. sounds like a fouled fuel filter may be the culprit.

good luck, dan

FlagRover · 10-25-2009, 06:51 PM

I do think the two are not related......Fuel filter is an easy and cheap thing to try and so is the brake light issue.

texasdiver72 · 10-26-2009, 02:54 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'll pick these items up in the morning and try to get them installed at some point tomorrow.

I haven't picked up a maintenance book yet... can you advise me as to where the fuel filter is located on the 93 RRC? I'm sure I can find it, but haven't looked and a time saver would be appreciated.

Divied245 · 10-26-2009, 06:50 AM

on the top side of the passenger frame rail just in front of the gas tank.

texasdiver72 · 10-26-2009, 08:48 PM

Well, I took the switch out and while it was still wired, I pressed the button with the key on and the shifter worked perfectly. Leads me to believe that maybe the brake pedal is not making contact with the old switch. Any way to adjust it?

The matching part (from auto zone) has a shorter plunger. I installed it, the shifter works, but the brake lights stay on. I'm leaving it in until I hear back from you guys about adjusting the brake pedal.

I'll move on to the fuel filter and pump. Picked up both today and will be able to return the pump if I don't use it. But I was able to push the truck into the garage and while my wife turned on the key, I got in the back and listened for the fuel pump. Couldn't hear anything at all... so it may be the pump.

Again, thanks for all the help. I certainly appreciate it.

texasdiver72 · 10-26-2009, 09:06 PM

Also just noticed that each time the brake pedal is pressed (with the key on) I can hear the brake pump(?) start and run for a second. Press it again and it does the same. Doesn't sound normal, but this is my first RR... Is this normal, and if not, could this be due to bad brake install? Could the pedal be in a different place because of that?

Just guessing and will defer to your experience

BullDogSix · 10-30-2009, 10:15 PM

Do you have the RAVE CD?...if so do the checks to make sure you are getting power back to the pump as it goes through a couple of other systems.

Regarding the brakes...sounds like your accumulator is going bad. The pump should run for 30 sec or so on startup and then only come on after 12-15 presses of the pedal. You could try bleeding the system to see if there is any trapped air. Make sure to follow the procedure in the manual exactly...do not skip or shortcut. You may have to run the procedure more than once also.

texasdiver72 · 11-01-2009, 10:22 PM

Well, I checked everything along the path to the fuel pump and decided the pump was dead. I wasn't comfortable with the pump rebuild (once I got into it,) so I've order the entire assembly. It should arrive Wednesday and I will install it immediately.

Once I can get it started, I will check the brakes and see what it will take to get them working properly. BDS, I downloaded the rave information and have it handy. I'm sure it will be helpful as I need it.

Also, when I bought this rig, I assumed I would be replacing the exterior plastic parts because they were badly oxidized. I read on another forum that you should smear peanut butter on them to restore them to new condition. I tried it on a few spots today... the corner bumper pieces, the mirrors, and part of the grill. They looked almost new again! Couldn't believe the difference. I'm going to wait a few days to see if it continues to look good, then do the rest. If you haven't used this little trick, so far I highly recommend it. Although your garage will smell like Peanut Butter Cookies for a while.

FlagRover · 11-02-2009, 08:27 AM

You dont live in bear country do you? Mmmm peanut butter.

Rave CD is AWESOME. You will use it a lot.

Keep us posted on your outcome on Wed.

texasdiver72 · 11-03-2009, 03:47 PM

Well, the fuel pump from Atlantic British showed up a day early! I took it out to the garage and had it installed in around 10 minutes. Fit perfectly with no mods and all the accessories were included in the kit.

I read somewhere to turn the key to the on position a few times to put some fuel in the line, and after that it fired up on the first try. It's running a little rough and the exhaust smell is a bit strong, but I drove her around the neighborhood for a while and the tranny seems to be shifting smoothly, and the cooling system is working well. The AC even seems to be working!

I'm going to have to find a replacement for the new brake switch though... Brake lights stay on constantly because the replacement switch I just bought had a shorter plunger. I think the length is causing the problem... Probably also the reason I have to disconnect the battery to take the key out of the ignition.

All in all, a great day in my garage. Been waiting patiently to get her started and down the road a bit. And no bears were chasing me!

OkieRover · 11-04-2009, 10:06 PM

You need to probably clean up the rough running by cleaning the Air Idler Valve and the place wear the plunger rests.
OkieRover.com

After you do that, replacing the plugs and wires and cap and rotor are probably next. How long had it sat in its non running state? You may have sediment and rust from the gas tank. The fuel filter will help with that.

My site will have a lot of stuff you can read up on.