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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lexington Kentucky
Posts: 25
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I own a 95 County classic SWB and recently bought a second one. Both had soaked front padding and rusted floor boards. Is this a common problem? I hear it is from clogged air condition drains. If anyone has had this problem I would love to hear what you did. I think I am going to pull up the padding, address the rust, dynamat the floor boards and put back new insulation under the carpet.
If you have never checked you classic you should go out and stick you finger under the padding....you might have the same problem and never knew it. Thanks in advance! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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4x4 Adventure Gear
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tappan, NY
Posts: 1,175
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It could be the drains but it could also be a leaking windshield (common problem). First thing I do to all my rovers is remove the carpet and foam.... just herculine the whole interior and I won't have to worry about rusty floors.
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John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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^^^^^x2
The kind of free float the windshield in the rubber and eventually it leads to leaks. I have a page about removing the carpet on my site, www.okierover.com. There are lots of little bolt holes in the floor board as well and sealing them will help with the water off the road coming up into the padding as well. You'll definately want to put some kind of padding and heat shield down when you pull up and replace the old stuff. The floor gets hot in the summer and the sound deadening is also important for ride comfort. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Centre of PA
Posts: 373
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I have a 95 RRC with the same problem. Its not the AC drains or the windsheild. Remove your hood and decker panel. Under the decker panel is a welded seam that rusts and allows water to enter from under the padding. I siliconed mine 2 years ago and it temporarily helped. But it came back again. The right way to seal it is by cutting the rust out and welding in new metal. I plan on doing this sometime soon..
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99 D1 73 Series SWB 95 RRC LWB - Sold |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 103
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sven
how far is this welded metal seam down from the bottom of the windscreen? i have this same problem. When I had a new windscreen put in a year ago, installer said there was rust around/below windscreen and there were no guarantees..... |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 103
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sven
how far is this welded metal seam down from the bottom of the windscreen? i have this same problem. When I had a new windscreen put in a year ago, installer said there was rust around/below windscreen and there were no guarantees..... |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
Posts: 1,300
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also check inside of your wheel wells and around were the front mud flap brakets r located. i had a small hole that started under the driver side mud flap bracket that caused h2o to come in and make the carpet damp. i took the bracket off (PIA!) and patched the hole w/ alum sheet, self tap'n screws and alot of heavy duty silcone. i should have got the underbody coated this fall but will do next this winter or next summer.
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Reusing this thread instead of creating a new one. Working on interior of my Classic so I took out all the foam and rubber insulation pads. Overall very little surface rust. However, to my alarm, a huge mofo-ing hole in the passenger floorboard. you could literally stick your foot through it and touch the catalytic converter.
I've cut out all worst rust, and am cleaning off the surface rust in preparation for patching the hole. Some Questions: 1. is floorboard steel or aluminum? It seems highly magnetic and was a bitch to cut through with Dremel tool, so I'm guessing steel but can someone confirm? 2. my plan is to cut a patch out of sheet metal - what thickness, anyone know? 3. planning to attach the patch with pop rivets and a some kind of silicone sealant designed for high heat. is that good idea or bad idea? I dont have welding tools or experience, and don't want to pay a ton of $ for someone else to patch it. 4. is there supposed to be a heat insulator/reflector between the cabin and the catalytic converter? there aint one and i was wondering whether this contributed to the metal rusting out. 5. what is recommended simplest practical way to seal small screw holes in the floor boards? solder? putty? jbweld? Will be putting down a coat of herculiner on entire interior floor so I just want something that will seal these holes so water doesnt get up in anywhere. thanks
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Pat Herman |
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#11 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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Aluminum is non metalic. So your working with steel.
A cheap welder is only 89$. So I'm not sure what you thought you'd have to pay to get that welded. Check with your local muffler shop. They weld stuff for me all the time and only charge me 10-20 bucks. http://www.bostonindustrial.com/arcwe150amp1.html just for reference. Heat and rust? Ummm. I'd say the water is your worst enemy. Heat would assist in paint removal...maybe if it was close enough and got hot enough. I wouldn't try to do it with rivets. After you get it patched putting herculiner on it is a good idea. Lots of guys are doing that. If I had to take mine down again, I'd do the same. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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Pat Herman |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alberta,Canada.
Posts: 387
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Remember to seal the outside of the patch panel also (under the truck), after all that is the source of all the water (hopefully, and not as noted above). I guess you could use the truck bed liner if it can handle the exhaust heat or get some of the do-it-yourself undercoating spray or your new panel will rust out again from the underside in time.
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"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" The Italian job 1969. |
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