95 LWB Loss of Power - Land Rovers Only

milorg45 · 06-11-2007, 07:43 PM

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a 95 LWB that is for the most part in pretty good shape. She runs great for about thirty minutes....much longer if there are no inclines. Then there is a sudden drop in rpm, and the speed starts bleeding off. When I apply more pedal the rpm needle jumps slightly and then drops again. As long as I keep the rpms between 2000 and 2500 and the speed about 30 she's will continue to run. If I pull over and let the engine idle for a moment it seems to fix the problem for a while. Any help would be appreciated. I am thinking it could be bad seals in the tranny or perhaps a timing issue.

roverandom · 06-11-2007, 09:55 PM

Yikes, I don't have the time to list all the possible faults it could be right now. Sounds like a temerature sensitve ign problem to me, when the "speed bleeds away" is there a stumble/hesitation etc?

RageRover · 06-12-2007, 02:03 AM

Sounds like what happened to me for awhile. Turned out to be a bad ignition module. But we'd need to here more about the problem.

milorg45 · 06-12-2007, 09:13 PM

So today was a much cooler day in Lower Alabama..much cooler than yesterday anyway. I decided to drive around with the windows down to try and catch any abnormal noises. Other than the exhaust that needs some adjusting I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. Needless to say I did not experience the powerloss today. The engine is idling high though at least in park. In reverse and in every other gear its about five to seven hundred. In park it sits about 800-900. The check engine light came on (fault code #44). I believe thats the O2 sensor if I am not mistaken. The sensor was just replaced though. Perhaps I will see what tomorrow brings. Go figure I can trouble shoot a helicopter and a RR classic has me stumped.

Thanks for the replys so far.

carlosz · 06-26-2007, 07:45 PM

your truck is quite similar to a discovery as far as component location, that being said lets cunduct a simple road side test.
you will need a cup of ice and a rag or a jug of cold water and a terry cloth.
of course we could use ohm tester and so forth but this back to basics.
of course you know were your coil and module are located(module by the radiator undr the p/s fill coil on the fender well).
run the ngine until if beging to fail when it does feel the coil it will be hot but beareble not burning hot, if it is the latter cool it with the water soaked rag or terry cloth or ice over the rag.
see if that fixes the problem if it does not, then go to the module and try it again, this way you should be able to do a quick road side diagnostic and pinpoint your failure.
good luck............
carlos.

06-11-2007, 07:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
milorg45 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: I move around Posts: 2 Gallery: 0	95 LWB Loss of Power Hi everyone, I recently purchased a 95 LWB that is for the most part in pretty good shape. She runs great for about thirty minutes....much longer if there are no inclines. Then there is a sudden drop in rpm, and the speed starts bleeding off. When I apply more pedal the rpm needle jumps slightly and then drops again. As long as I keep the rpms between 2000 and 2500 and the speed about 30 she's will continue to run. If I pull over and let the engine idle for a moment it seems to fix the problem for a while. Any help would be appreciated. I am thinking it could be bad seals in the tranny or perhaps a timing issue.

06-11-2007, 09:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
roverandom Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Alberta,Canada. Posts: 407 Gallery: 0	Yikes, I don't have the time to list all the possible faults it could be right now. Sounds like a temerature sensitve ign problem to me, when the "speed bleeds away" is there a stumble/hesitation etc? __________________ "Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" The Italian job 1969.

06-12-2007, 02:03 AM	#3 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	Sounds like what happened to me for awhile. Turned out to be a bad ignition module. But we'd need to here more about the problem. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

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06-12-2007, 09:13 PM	#4 (permalink)
milorg45 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: I move around Posts: 2 Gallery: 0	So today was a much cooler day in Lower Alabama..much cooler than yesterday anyway. I decided to drive around with the windows down to try and catch any abnormal noises. Other than the exhaust that needs some adjusting I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. Needless to say I did not experience the powerloss today. The engine is idling high though at least in park. In reverse and in every other gear its about five to seven hundred. In park it sits about 800-900. The check engine light came on (fault code #44). I believe thats the O2 sensor if I am not mistaken. The sensor was just replaced though. Perhaps I will see what tomorrow brings. Go figure I can trouble shoot a helicopter and a RR classic has me stumped. Thanks for the replys so far.

06-26-2007, 07:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
carlosz Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 107 Gallery: 0	your truck is quite similar to a discovery as far as component location, that being said lets cunduct a simple road side test. you will need a cup of ice and a rag or a jug of cold water and a terry cloth. of course we could use ohm tester and so forth but this back to basics. of course you know were your coil and module are located(module by the radiator undr the p/s fill coil on the fender well). run the ngine until if beging to fail when it does feel the coil it will be hot but beareble not burning hot, if it is the latter cool it with the water soaked rag or terry cloth or ice over the rag. see if that fixes the problem if it does not, then go to the module and try it again, this way you should be able to do a quick road side diagnostic and pinpoint your failure. good luck............ carlos.

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