ABS-BLoody confused

[MuddyRangeRover]

Ok, so I think I *have* ABS. I mean there is the computer thingy under my seat, and it says Wabco all over.




Ok, so now, I don't need to change anything, correct, as I have the post ABS? It would be just ideal to upgrade my axles to the Rovertracks when locking the rear, right?Or is there still something that needs to be changed?

What about the grease? Something wrong there?

Thanks very much guys. Really appreciate it.
I read the RR.net, but was still somewhat unclear. It can be a bit vague.
ALSO, since I never felt the symptoms of ABS, could it have been disabled? Unhooked? What should I check?

PSS- The silver tape on the plug under the hood is just there to keep water from going in. It is not holding it together.

[KevinNY]

Have you ever pulled your hubs to repack the bearings? Pulled the axles to check the splines? Easy stuff that will start to teach you how your truck works.

[Paul Grant]

My bet is you have half shafts with 10 splines at the diff. Unless the previous owner was an enthusiast who actually off-roaded the truck I think it's doubtful that they would have gone through the bother of upgrading the diff and half shafts. But, who knows, pull the half shafts and you might be surprised.

[Hank]

Unless someone changed it, you have 10-spline diff's.

You do have ABS.

Pull your junk apart and re-pack the grease before you have bigger problems.

[OkieRover]

Red=rust
Rust=water
So in Marine Corps terms you have contaminated grease. Pulling them and repacking them would be a good idea.

[MuddyRangeRover]

Ok, so regardless of whether or not i have ABS, it would be advisable to change my diffs to 24 spline.
If I were to LOCK my truck as it sits now, with TT or Detroit, how likely is it I will have broken shafts? What about if I used ARB air lockers? I don't wheel overly hard and rarely ever do rocks.

AS far as the grease goes, what would be the best procedure to re-grease them?
Remove the axles and use what to clean the old grease out? What grease should I use to put back in there? CV grease?

I have access to a 1992 RRC, would the stuff from that truck work on mine? What EXACTLY would I need to upgrade since I have ABS? (I was left witht he impression that if I DIDN"T have ABS, there would be more things involved in swapping)

Thanks a lot guys, greatly appreciated. I am definitely learning a lot. I will look at my workshop manual CD to see exact procedure for removing axles to pack them with grease.

[choffa@comcast.net]

The Pump should run for 30 - 45 seconds on start up (pressurizing system). On instrument panel, two lights should be on at start up, red Brake light (same one is on when parking brake is up), and yellow ABS light. The red Brake light will go off once the system is pressurized, yellow will stay on until you've driven a short distrance and all wheel sensors have checked out OK. If neither light is on at start up, the system is disabled. Check under driver's seat for a series of relays & fuses. If there was a problem the previous owner may have disabled it instead of fixing. The ABS controller is under the passenger seat. Connector is known to suffer from corrosion, clean & snap it in place a few times to clean terminals.

Parts are very expensive, $1200 for master cylinder/valve block, $800 for pump, $250 for accumulator (new prices)

Take a look here to get an idea of the system design & pitfalls:

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/abs.html

[Hank]

Jesus, you really have no clue, do you.....

I can't even believe I'm being this nice. You just better be glad it's not 9:00 yet.

First, take off the wheel, remove the dust cap, and remove the 5 17mm bolts on the drive flange. Once they're off, remove the snap-ring and two shims of the CV joint.

[Hank]

Since it appers the drive flange has never been removed, it may require some force with a hammer. Anyway, remove the drive flange.

(NOTE, in this picture, there is no CV installed. It will look a little different)

[Hank]

Remove the caliper using a 13mm 12-point socket.

(NOTE, the drive is back on. Don't put it back on. I just did the pics out of order. It's best to first remove the drive flange first so someone can hold the brake if the hub wants to turn. Not a problem with air tools.

[Hank]

Using a Hub Nut Tool, remove the first hub nut, the locking ring, and the second hub nut from the spindle.

Once the hub nuts are off, remove the rotor/hub assembly.

[Hank]

Remove the 5 17mm bolts holding on the spindle.

[Hank]

From there, I would sure hope you can figure it out.

In the above picture, note how two bolts are missing from the spindle. This is how you will re-fill the knuckle (or swivel) with oil. You pour in the top hole untill it comes out the middle hole....

Be sure to use blue loc tight on EVERYTHING.

[Hank]

Drink a beer.

[Hank]

Put it all ack on in the reverce order you took it off and you're ready to rock.

.....oh, and don't think about lockers until you can do axles, too. I would do axles now while you have it apart. But, thats me. What do I know....