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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I was planning to make drawers for parts and tools for the cargo area of my classic. Then i was looking at other people's ideas and saw that a lot of Jeep owners use military surplus ammo cans. I liked the idea, and for a lot less than I would of spent on the metal to build drawers, and much less time, here is what i came up with.
I bought 2 large ammo cans that are roughly twice the capacity of .50 cal ammo cans. I think these held 40mm grenade rounds. One of these is for storing my Warn recovery bag and other recovery gear, the other is for miscellaneous fluids: radiator, oil, Power steering, brake etc. I got two enormous containers that held 81 MM explosive rounds (for tanks?). These will be for storing tool boxes, air tools, socket sets, etc. I got a 120 MM rocket can, which is a nice size for storing things like axles. 2 small plastic cases - one for storig my CB radio, the other for storing small parts (emergecy screws, nuts, bolts, bulbs etc) and smaller tools. I also got a British Army water can, a German army gasoline can, and a British Army first aid tin that was allegedly issued with Land Rovers. All of the metal containers were in state of slow decay but none was rusted badly. Sanded off surface rust, lime scale, and funny military decals warning of dire consequences. Generous coatings of primer followed by black rubberized paint. Then I made stencils by printing out the words I wanted on large military stencil fonts. Cut out the stencils, taped em on, and painted with signal yellow paint. Made a cool 'flammable' stencil for the gas can, and I preserved the neat German labeling of the fuel type. Ja, Benzin, alles in Ordnung. Danke. Anyway I think this is a practical, cheap alternative that is flexible, stackable, cheaper than pelican cases. If a box gets scratched up it adds character. If it gets really scratched, I'll paint it again. And if one gets crushed, I only paid 10 - 15 per box so who cares. I'll need to go out and get some foam inserts for some of these and I might add padlocks to some of them too. Still - heck of a lot cheaper and much less time than building a set of metal cargo drawers. Shot of the interior of Recovery box, which accomodates warn winch bag and still has room for high lift recovery base, and room to spare. Shot of all the boxes after stenciling ![]() The radio box and first aid kit ![]() All boxes in place ![]()
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Pat Herman |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 1,693
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Nice job been doing that myself in my cars for years... I get mine for free though lol
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#4 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 1,693
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Why not?
they really help out with traffic jams
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#5 (permalink) |
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2004 Discovery II driver
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i've been using ammo cans to hold all my ammo and tools for a while...just not in my car.... now that i think about that its a really good idea as long as you have a label on ALL sides. that last thing i want is a bunch of cops swarming all over my car in the parking lot because it looks like i have enough live ammo to take over a small country.
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![]() 2004 Discovery II SE7 - My Ride 2006 LR3 SE - Dad's Ride |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Ben
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Nashville,TN
Posts: 641
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That happened tome at school one day, I was called out of class and they had to search the ammo cans.
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1997 D-90 #1345- Bunch of stuff 1992 RRC LSE- for sale/ maybe crawler project 2002 Dodge ram 2500CTD- dd/tow rig |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 1,900
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All you have to do is hold them down. A suggestion is that you get some security mesh and put it on the floor. This gives you lots of anchor points to put ratchet straps onto and hold the whole load down.
Should also really get a cargo barrier to make sure what is in the back stays in the back. Like these: Milford Industries... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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2004 Discovery II driver
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you can always drill into the boxes and put on an eye to tie it down to the existing eyes in the cargo floor already...or do RRCs not have the tie down eyes like my disco has?
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![]() 2004 Discovery II SE7 - My Ride 2006 LR3 SE - Dad's Ride |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 1,900
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It is not a matter of having them, but having them in exactly the right spot. You actually tie down the mess to the existing tie downs and then all the cargo to the mess. The mess has holes in it around 2 inches in diametre and is made from a tough security aluminimum.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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great suggestions guys. a cargo barrier and or tie downs are on the list... having a loaded steel ammo can come crashing through between the seats would be bad!
classics do not have factory tie downs, at least my year did not, so thats going to take a bit of work any suggestions
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Pat Herman |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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2004 Discovery II driver
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Quote:
haha, i didn't think about that. yeah, an empty can could probably kill ya if it hit ya in the head at any speed. ![]()
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![]() 2004 Discovery II SE7 - My Ride 2006 LR3 SE - Dad's Ride |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 8
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Check out US Cargo Control for these
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/airlinetrack6piece-p-227.html ![]() And these http://www.uscargocontrol.com/singlestudfittingwring-p-75.html ![]() Just like Mac's (i.e. Expedition Exchange) but way less $$. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Me either!? As I don't relish getting brained by a metal canister! Right now I'm thinking:
1. A cargo separtor between 2nd row and loadspace 2. 4 - 8 rings attached to the loadspace floor 3. straps through those rings, and/or a military surplus cargo net if warranted. Velocewest, very cool stuff, thanks! Question. WTF does that first thing with all the holes do? Do you secure that to the load floor and then it provides you with 6 lashing points per side? 2nd question i have been considering is what kind of backing I will need to have welded underneath the floor to support mounting rings like those - so the rings dont just pull out of the floor on a bumpy trail. Do you guys have any experience w the mounting these?
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Pat Herman |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 8
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First thing is rail, it mounts to truck. Second thing is lashing ring, it locks in rail. Rails come in lengths 2" (single mount point), 6", and 48" I believe.
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Tony 1992 RRC "Thirsty" 1970 BMW 2800CS |
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