Best Drag link? Rovertym?

[TNRRClassic]

No more wasting my time on trolls. If anyone needs any specific details on drag links, feel free to send a PM. Thanks.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by TNRRClassic

No more wasting my time on trolls. If anyone needs any specific details on drag links, feel free to send a PM. Thanks.

What advice would that be?
When people try to help others out here, you are the first to post stupid comments.
I have seen steering boxes smashed in the bush from the impact to a wheel. I have bent track rods and drag links from impacts to wheels. Bent track rods make it a little difficult to drive, but you can straighten them out in the bush. But I was bending them too often and upgraded to a HD maxidrive version. But I will not change the drag link. Firstly it is too easy to protect them from impact and secondly I have driven with a bent one for a couple of years before I finally bother to straighten it.
I only offer advice as to what can happen. People can still do what they want.
It is just idiots like yourself that seem to only be able to put forward their own ideas by putting down others.
So I have explained why I do not believe you should put in heavy duty drag links. Can you put any case forward for why you should outside calling people names.

[LANDY96]

Well..... while you all act immature, and give me a discoweb flashback.... I will tell you that I made a mistake. I need the tie/track rod, the one with the steering damper..... I want to upgrade mine, and relocate the damper. Talked to Steve a RTE, said you can do that, but if you want to upgrade the drag link later, you have to get a new steering damper mount, as the diameters are different. So.... I need to do something fast before my $200 dollar MTR's chop away....

[Denny]

Landy96, thats not exactly true. I can't remember the part# but I'll try to find it. What I did was buy a damper made by Black Diamond that they sell for a CJ-7. It comes with two sizes of U-bolts and brackets (one that fits the stock Rover drag-link and one that fits a larger bar) and a frame mount that you can mount to the bottom of the frame on the right side. The whole thing cost me about $55. In the lower pics you can see the size of the bar the larger U-bolts will fit. And I would have to agree with p76rangie that the drag-link is the week link in the set-up that would give up first and be much easier to fix than a steering box demo'd by the shock of a hard lick from a rock. But as you can see I didn't go that route and hopefully won't have to endure such failures. I stayed with the same size bar because for the size of the stock rod ends and went with 3/4" rod ends and thats just my taste and also they have a breaking strength of 10,500lbs. The real issue with these is drilling out the knuckles out to 3/4" cause once it's done you can't go back and I don't plan on that anyway.

Just my opinion and not intended to sway you either way.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by LANDY96

I need the tie/track rod, the one with the steering damper. I want to upgrade mine, and relocate the damper. Talked to Steve a RTE, said you can do that, but if you want to upgrade the drag link later, you have to get a new steering damper mount, as the diameters are different.

I would just relocate and worry about upgrading the drag link if you decide to later. The bracket is not that expensive.