Block removal 1990 RRC

[rturbett]

I was just going to do the piston rings while the block was still in. I noticed that the top of each cylinder has a ridge. I thought this was just a build up, but it may very well be that the sleeves have worn, and putting new rings against that ridge will beat them up in a hurry. I have decided to pull the block and have them honed clean. this will also give my machine shop a chance to inspect the block for any other issues.

Any advice on disconnecting the engine from the transmission? Or on any other parts of this project?

Why are rings so expensive for this 3.9 engine? Anyone have any other source?

Thanks,
Rob Turbett

[TerryS]

Are you certain you can't hone the ridge with a spring hone? I've never seen them so bad they couldn't.
That's a pain in the arse job. Removing the engine with the torque converter still attached is OK, but unbolt it and put it on the input shaft when you go to reinstall or you can damage the pump.
The top bellhousing bolts are nearly impossible to get out, unless you remove the motor mount brackets and lower the engine as mush as you can to get access.

[rturbett]

Terry,
I am stretching my capabilities at this point, (Brakes and oil changes are my comfort level.) I do like the challenge.

I'm sure it can be honed in place, but I have never done that. I figured that while it is apart, I would do the job right. I would also like the shop to inspect the block, as I have not found a definite cause of the overheating. (none of the cylindres have that "steam cleaned" look, so I think it is ok) They have taught me a lot, and by having the block in front of them they can advise me on what to do.

With the block out and on a stand, I will be able to easily put in new bearings.

I'm having fun doing this an evening project. It would be a blast to be getting paid for this as a day job!

Rob

[bartell]

Originally Posted by rturbett

Terry,
I'm sure it can be honed in place, but I have never done that. I figured that while it is apart, I would do the job right. I would also like the shop to inspect the block,

With the block out and on a stand, I will be able to easily put in new bearings.
Rob

I'm with Terry. There is nothing you want to do so far that requires the risks and hassles of taking the engine out.

On the other hand, a ring job isn't much good for long if your bores are worn. (very possible). You can check that with a single new ring. Put it in and see what the gap is.

If your gap is within tolerance, do your ring job, change your bearings, have your heads professionally examined and skimmed if necessary. Yours is a pre-stretch bolt model, but I would still suggest you use new head and bottom end bolts.

If your gap is too wide, deeply consider pulling the engine to rebore for 20 over.

James

P.S. Rings should cost you around 40-50£ for a set.

[TerryS]

Originally Posted by rturbett

Terry,
I would also like the shop to inspect the block,

If you're going the distance, then pull all the oil gallery plugs, and the freeze plugs, and have the block boiled. This is the best way to insure that all the oil galleries are as clean as new. You'd hate to do the whole motor over and have an old freeze plug fail a year down the road.
Do the Cam bearings, and scrap the old cam for a good aftermarket such as Crane. You don't need to go overboard on cams, increasing lift just means more head machine work. It may be a 4.2, but to put thing into perspective, it isn't even a 289, and you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

[jimfoo]

Call Total Seal to see if they have rings. I bet they will be cheaper. Of course I live at a higher elevation, and my motor is only 8.13:1 but I'd want the compression to be at least 9.5:1 IMHO. When I rebuilt my 302 I got 10.2:1 and still ran regular. Had much better power and torque.

[rturbett]

The main reason I am pulling the block is so that The machine shop can give me additional professional advice (to go along with all your comments!)
The have done a great job teaching me about the heads, and I look forward to their inspection of the block.
I did spot a freeze plug that looks about a week from failing, so give me credit for that.

Also, I'm not sure how to pull the crank with the block in place to do the main bearings - just not sure how things go together at the back of the engine. In fact, my goal tonight is to gather as much info as I can on how to disconnect the block.

I do have some common sense and a 1/2 inch socket set, so I guess that makes me dangerous!

Thanks again for all the help.
Rob