body lift

[GreatDivide1]

well just got done with my toddco body lift
went in super easy and i only did a couple things diffrent then the distruction... one i put almost all the bolts in from the bottom up where they want some up and some down..two i didnt remover the bumpers like they want u to....other then that went in great super easy and no change to the way it drives at all.. i would reccomend it to anybody who wants lift without big money.....

[ArmyRover]

how many inches did you do and what did the body lift run you I've been considering that next along with the extended brake hoses

[stolenheron]

pictures!!!!

[GreatDivide1]

i did the 2in lift as thats all they offer...umm i think 230ish shipped ... sorry it was a rovertym lift will work on pics

[ArmyRover]

hmmm guess I'll go for the brake lines than I'll get the body lift after we get our tax rebate checks

[p76rangie]

Relatively easy to maek your own lift kit. Just buy 2 inch round solid aluminium bar and cut it into sections the length you want the lift. Drill a hole up the centre and get the required longer bolts. The only fiddly bit is making some bracket extensions for the seat belt tie-downs. You don't need extended brake lines, only have to move the mounting brackets.

[carlosz]

hell even better I went to a local off road shop where i was able to obtain 10 3 inch blocks like those used on american body lift kits, then i went to my local steel suplier
(potomac steel in springfield va) and purchased 10 6inch long x 3/8 grade 8.5 fine thread bolts with locking nuts and a couple pounds of flat washers all for less than 50 bucks.
i have some more custom work to do before install but once compleeted and said and done I may have spent 100.00 at most.

[ArmyRover]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

You don't need extended brake lines, only have to move the mounting brackets.

oh but I do I have a 3'' old man emu lift

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by ArmyRover

oh but I do I have a 3'' old man emu lift

I have a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch spring lift (4 inches total) and run standard brake lines without issue.

[carlosz]

ideal, i plan on doing a 3 inch body 5 to 6 inch suspension, 33's, 411 gears. custom front and rear homemade bumpers, side sliders, arb front and rear lockers, lowered radious arms and redrilled swivel balls.
most of it will be done by me some other stuff i will buy or have custom made.
hope to have all compleeted by this september.

[ArmyRover]

I'm aiming for the 2 or 3 inch body lift on top of the 3 inch suspension lift so brake lines wouldn't be a bad idea before to long plus mine are 17 years old and probably should be replaced sooner or later regardless

[pie4foou]

I went with rovertym lift as well. The 2" body, and they recommended longer break lines with the suspension that i'm running. I'd have to say I'm quite pleased with the results. I've had the lift for about 5 months or so. Going to pay my friend at the tire wholesaler a visit this summer... hopefully i'll be sitting on 35's for around $50 a tire... but its nothing set in stone. anyone have a problem fitting 35's with just a 2" body lift and 1" suspension? i think at worst i'll have to shave off one side of the wheel wells

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by pie4foou

I went with rovertym lift as well. The 2" body, and they recommended longer break lines with the suspension that i'm running. I'd have to say I'm quite pleased with the results. I've had the lift for about 5 months or so. Going to pay my friend at the tire wholesaler a visit this summer... hopefully i'll be sitting on 35's for around $50 a tire... but its nothing set in stone. anyone have a problem fitting 35's with just a 2" body lift and 1" suspension? i think at worst i'll have to shave off one side of the wheel wells

It depends on the width of the tyre and the offset of the rim. To maintain your turning circle and to increase stability, you need to increase the offset of the rims. This then pushes the tyre outside the current limits of the body. Therefore, if you still want you wheels to move up and down, you will need to cut a fair bit off the wheel arches and get flares. If you put in a bigger spring lift and put in really stiff springs, you may get away will a smaller cut. But basically the cut is slightly bigger than the ridge that you have going around your wheel arches. You have to cut the rear doors as well.

[pie4foou]

i never thought of that... about makin it more stable. Makes perfect sense too. I'm going to be buying some steelies pretty soon, what size should i be looking for?

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by pie4foou

i never thought of that... about makin it more stable. Makes perfect sense too. I'm going to be buying some steelies pretty soon, what size should i be looking for?

Something close, but not perfect, is to reverse the steel Discovery rims. Here in Oz, nearly all the early Discoveries came with steel rims. Of course everyone wanted alloy wheels, so the dealers took off the steel rims and put alloys on. This made the steel rims relatively cheap then (more expensive now they are rarer). By cutting the centres out, reversing them and welding them back in, they gave a pretty good offset. This what I have on my car.

Went I fitted them I went from a 1 inch body lift to a 2 inch lift and bigger tyres. The car was more stable afterwards than what it was before the changes. I run 255/85/16 BFG MTs on those rims and they are my road tyres. I also have a set of 15 inch rims which are an extra inch wider. The extra width on on the inside and the outside distance is the same as the Disco rims. On these I run my off-road Simex tyres.