brake light,ABS light,TC light on when brakes applied??
It was doing this every now & then especially when you hammered the brakes quick..now I have changed the brake pads on front & rear as one of the pads was in the rotor & now the brakes feel spongy..doesnt want to stop as good & all 3 lights come on at the same time when brakes are applied normally..any ideas?
What year is your Rover.. It sounds like your abs pump is not getting enough pressure, or if you have a pre ABS model 88-90 i think then you may need to get a brake booster rebuild kit, you may as well rebuild the master cylinder while you are at it.. Look at the engine where the brake fluid is ( assuming is a non abs model) the fluid reservior sits atop the master cylinder, which is bolted into the booster ( larger round unit) If there is a leak below where the Master Cylinder and booster connect, you will see the paint peeling off the booster.. that needs to be fixed, and you will probably have a puddle of fluid in the booster.. BTDT..
Any advice given in this forum is my 2 cents, which is roughly the value of said advice!
My guess would be ABS accumulator. With the car running, see how many times you can depress the brake pedal until the ABS pump kicks in...
Ill try that tomorrow & see what happens..the accumulator is the little ball thing..right?
It is a 98 model RangRover HSE sorry I didnt state that..any ideas of what I need to be looking for on this model then hamrendan?
Most all of the brake parts under the hood (pump, accumulator, etc) are incredibly expensive on any Range Rover and certainly the P38 which has a rare electric servo design combined with the super-sophisticated Rover / WABCO ABS system. Did you have any problems when changing the brakes?
I just did pads all the way around on my 4.0 and when compressing the pistons on the the pass front one of the pistons actually popped out! THis led to a slight loss in brake fluid, etc, but the worst problem was the fact that air got in the system and the brakes were very spongy, soft on the first try, pumping the brakes would harden the pedal but quick pumps would cause ABS / brakes / ETC lights all to come on then they would go out.
Before you spend money you should bleed the brake system (maybe even change brake fluid) Air in the system will cause your problems. See if the fluid is at all low--if it has ever dropped below the "min" mark air can get in even if the cap is on!
Unfortunantly bleeding brakes on a RR is not fun--the nature of the ABS system means once air comes in (in my case it was only at the right front wheel piston) the air can spread over the entire brake system, so you have to bleed everything. There are several procedures online, but I used the factory manual to do it as it was the only one which worked. The job involves going around to each wheel as bleeding a little fluid off, plus bleeding three things under the hood, and doing the whole thing twice. You need two people to do it as someone has to operate the pedal and the ignition to turn the brake pump on / off. The good news is you need no special tools. You should have a short plastic hose and a can to collect fluid. That's it. If you don't feel like doing this yourself, take it in-the job (when I had the instructions) only took 1.5 hours and a can of Castrol brake fluid. Not too bad, if you don't mind crawling under the car.
Sounds like your accumulator is bad, if if the pump turns on after two pumps. I would bleed the system first, if that does not fix the problem you will probably have to change the accumulator. The accumulator screws off with a open ended wrench. Be sure to replace the "O" ring.
I have all three lights coming on. Today i found the issue. When this happen a few years ago i took it to a shop in Virginia, they said they fixed it, and I did not have any issues for a few days, and then it came back on all three lights. I found that they never even connected the passenger's side back into the system, instead, they cut a hole in a boot on the firewall and ran the wire threw and wrapped it up, with the two bare wires exposed to my other wires under the glove box. Now i have to get a sensor and do it right. I paid over 350.00 for that service job. Like they did me a favor. They screwed me. if you need to know the name and location just let me know I'll give you everything you need to know about them. they sux big.
Doing research for the last 7 days tells me that is is an on going issue with tons of Land Rovers. basically we have junk under the hood. If you go to the dealer they are going to charge you an arm and a leg to fix the issue. From reading all of the post this should be a recall and they won't do that, too much money to fix everyone. This will be my last Land Rover I purchase. What I found was the bypass method to my ABS unit, taking the front passenger sensor and running it to the computer. The wires came out causing my issue. My brakes work fine, but the lights are killing me.I'm currently trying to find out where these wires go into the harness of the computer and My lights will and should go out. Can't seem to locate my CD on my truck and can't find the ABS computer diagram, for my truck. Brakes were changed and I have slotted rotors installed. Just need a blow out diagram for a 1999 Land Rover Discovery II.
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