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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pascoag, RI
Posts: 312
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Well, I'm a little lost of where to go now. Only when it's cold out, for the first 30 seconds of running or so, it idles a little funky, and if you hit the throttle sharply, it almost dies , then picks up and goes. After about 30 seconds of driving, it's fine.
I've already replaced: Engine temperature sensor Temp sensor for gauge Throttle Position Sensor (non adjustable) and I've cleaned the whole PCV system.. I don't know where else to look. I do have pretty bad exhaust leaks (after the cats), could it be just a backpressure (lack thereof) thing? Where would you go next? I guess i could throw plugs or s distributor cap at it.. But i don't like throwing parts at it.. I'd prefer to diagnose it.
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Devon Yablonski 1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts http://ads.auctionads.com/pagead/lin...assZyieldsign2 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
Posts: 2,152
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Before you start it next cold morning, pull off the distributor cap, and rotate the rotor and let go. Does it spring back to it's rest sharply, or sluggishly? The pivots for the advance weights may be gummed up, or frozen. Check that and come back.
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#3 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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Is your air idler valve clean?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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I ran across this old thread when i was searching, so sorry to resurrect it, but mine is doing the same thing, especially the colder it gets. If I let it warm up a few minutes its not quite as bad. If it was a carb i would blame it on the choke, but who knows on these new fangled fuel injections.
So Devon, did you ever figure this one out?
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,888
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Could be what Okie said, IAC could be dirty, I know mine was, and afterwards it ran better.
Injectors could also be gummed up and once the truck warms to closed loop for fuel operation it would run better. A good decarbonizer might help...mine definately improved after I did it myself at the college. Also the throttle body could be dirty as well.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,888
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Hey Kickini....
Does your truck even start in cold weather like anything below 40 degrees? If so, how does it run...like what symptoms are there if any? It could be a bad Coolant Temp. Sensor. Or clogged IAC. Injectors too could be a cause...also I forgot about spark plugs....some plugs warm up slower or faster than others, just something to check. Also check the gap on them suckers. I will get a better idea once ya respond...best of luck!
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pascoag, RI
Posts: 312
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Nah haven't figured it out yet. Renovating the truck again this winter.. so don't really need to figure iet out until next winter since I won't be driving it.
I am somewhat worried if it is broken teeth or slack in the timing chain/gear, as someone said you would get sluggish response from that, and my old one acted strange when cold up until the chain went. Probably will try to do a chain job before i put it back on the raod to make sure.
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Devon Yablonski 1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts http://ads.auctionads.com/pagead/lin...assZyieldsign2 |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
Posts: 1,300
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hello, 1st start by cleaning the stepper motor like okie stated, also clean or replace your pvc filter, then sea foam the the rover through the induction system and see what happens. i had the samething the 1st winter after i got my rrc (05) and i would start up then if i hit the gas it would take 5 seconds or to kick in. it went away in the later part of winter in 06. i had the spark plugs, cap dist changed. i just cleaned out the stepper motor acouple of wks ago for the 1st time, sea foam the induction system last sunday. last spring i got a new pvc filter and crackcase filter. i will get u know how it goes this winter but it has not did that idle slow go since the 05 winter and i did not clean the stepper motor, or etc.
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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Thanks guys. Its not the stepper motor. Not only is it clean, but it think it would still run rough at all temps. I was hoping temp sensor, but that's not it either since there's a new one in. Could be the hot wire in the MAF, could be the injectors. Whatever, its running lean.
I've been letting it warm up to over 100 degrees on the guage before i drive it. It's better, but still not right. So Pat how did you "decarbonize" your injectors? Daway, isn't it cold enough in MN by now? ![]()
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
Posts: 1,300
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Quote:
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
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Quote:
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. Last edited by Greg M : 12-01-2006 at 02:47 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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Okay, I did as Terry had suggested, and sure enough the mechanical advance is stuck. Did my research and found this on rangerovers.net
http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails/misc.html#advance Shame on me for not doing this as part of the routine maintence. Lesson learned.
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
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Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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So are you going to elaborate or not? Ever taken one apart before? I am pretty clever at figuring things out, but any words of wisdom are appreciated.
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. Last edited by Greg M : 12-02-2006 at 12:40 PM. |
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