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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 15
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In my 95 LWB I have 75/140 Mobil 1 gear lube in Front & Rear final drives, as well as the transfer case, and she LOVES it (major improvements). However, last week, the parts counter at Flatirons Rover in Boulder, Co. told me to hold off on putting in the same fluid (75/140) in my swivel pin housings, because Rover had introduced some grease in tubes that didn't leak out, etc. Like an idiot, I decided to wait until they got some more in, and, of course, made a trip from Denver to Grand Junction only to hear that dreaded "clicking sound" when I got off the highway. I immediately drained both housings to confirm my suspicion that they were indeed almost totally empty. I added .8 quart of gear oil to both, and buttoned her back up. The clicking noise is still there, only not nearly as bad as before
. All I can assume at this point is that I did indeed "toast" the Driver's side CV, but it looks (sounds rather) like I caught the passenger side just in time. My question: if I keep them well lubricated, how far can I drive with this clicking CV Joint WITHOUT causing additional damage? Can I go 400 miles back to Denver? Also, as I do all my own work, I intend to do the CV myself. Are there any tech-tips anyone can offer on this project and any guidance about a great place to by the CV Joint, seals, and special hub-nut tools, etc? Lastly, I am guessing that I should do BOTH sides at roughly the same time, just to be safe. Thank you so much for any assistance! Denver Dan ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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4x4 Adventure Gear
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tappan, NY
Posts: 1,175
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I don't like the grease 'cause I do alot of water crossings and it's hard to drain the grease, I prefer oil (140 wt). Just my experience.
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John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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Can't say on the 400 miles. I'd do it.
Does it click going straight or is the click only when you turn? http://www.okierover.com/cv-joint.htm I did mine as they failed. The only "special" tool is 12 point sockets to get the new seal in. Which I didn't have and didn't replace yet. I broke a torx head but all that info is in the write up. Good luck. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the info and the info on your tech site! It makes the noise when going straight, AND when the wheel is turned to the left, but NOT when turned to the right... Thanks again! Denver Dan
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#5 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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I would recommend repairing as soon as possible.
When that sucker explodes your done. When mine went I was luckily only a couple of miles from home. I got there no problem. My buddies failed right in front of his shop. Lucky him. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 15
Gallery:
0
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Thanks to all who responded! I was very lucky, I took the time to add gear oil to the swivel pin housings before I made the 400 mile drive, and, as soon as I got home I drained, purged and cleaned as much of the old grease/oil combo as possible, before adding almost a full quart to each housing (.8 qt). The noise disappeared entirely, and my mechanic confirmed that the lack of fluid was allowing the components to "click" inside the housing. He suggested that you can go about 500 miles like that before causing MAJOR damage. (whew!) Anyway, thanks again, and now I'm staying with the 75/140 because it is MUCH easier to drain AND to assess how much really is inside. Of course I'll be checking these housings about once every two weeks until I find the time and tech tips to go in and replace the "Swivel Ball Seals". All the best! -Denver Dan
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#7 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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Dan,
If you go in to do the seals I would replace the CVs just because your there. You can shelf the old ones for an emergency. Good luck. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,841
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Stay away from the dealership !!! If you are in Denver you must check out www.jcrover4x4.com 720/227-9118 (no I'm not affiliated w/ him,,,just a very very satisfied customer,,,,check out previous posts on this shop). The money you save will blow you away,,,and you'll get honest advice.
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#9 (permalink) |
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ryans ROVER
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 180
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hey guys im about 2 replace both of my cv joints on my 94 rrc and im trying to decide where to buy the kit from...im looking at DAP and british parts. any suggestions on where to buy the kits from?
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ryan mura 1994 range rover county lwb -BIG BLUE 3" coil spring suspension lift -Procomp ES3000 shocks -custom snorkel -glasspack exhaust system -285/75/R16 all terrain tires -old school CB radio from the 80s-cobra -speakers loud enough to set off car alarms -LR3 side air vent |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: in Virginia
Posts: 260
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Quote:
BTW, I read Okierover's cv write-up...I never heard of a spindle called a "trumpet housing" before... ![]()
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The mere fact that a flame thrower even exists is proof that sometime, somewhere, somebody said to themselves, "You know, I'd like to set those people over there on fire, but I'm just not close enough to get the job done." |
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#11 (permalink) |
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ryans ROVER
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 180
Gallery:
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im thinking about buying a cv joint rebuilt kit from northeastbritishparts, has anyone bought a cv rebuilt kit from them?
__________________
ryan mura 1994 range rover county lwb -BIG BLUE 3" coil spring suspension lift -Procomp ES3000 shocks -custom snorkel -glasspack exhaust system -285/75/R16 all terrain tires -old school CB radio from the 80s-cobra -speakers loud enough to set off car alarms -LR3 side air vent |
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