my last oil changed i had them change the diff. oil . this time i went back and my diff oil is still black????? wtf?? does any one have any advice ? how to clean the case out??
Are you positive they actually changed it out? In the future this is something you can do in the garage very easily. How many miles you got on the truck? To clean it out you would just take off the diff cover and go to town. Dont' use cleaning solution though
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"Good saddles ain't cheap, and cheap saddles ain't good."
she has 145,000 93 rrclassic lwb
still runnin strong !!! i am pretty sure they changed it .. what would you suggest i use to clean it?? some one said carb cleaner??
is there a seal to replace??
There is no diff cover on our classics...just two plugs to remove to drain the oil...makes it a simple drain and top off operation.
What to do is remove the bottom plug first...then right after remove the one on the front face to aid in the draining. If you want, you can use sealant tape, for fittings on the threads of the plugs, once you've cleaned the plugs, to prevent future leaking.
Put the bottom plug in tight/snug. Then top off the diff with either 90W gear oil, or 80W (both have different protection temperature ratings...but in the dead of summer, I'd go 90W. Fill the diff til' the level in the gear oil reaches the level of the fill plug. Tighten the top plug, and that diff is done!!
Repeat for the other diff. Hehe, damnit I gotta do mine still. It will stink, that's for sure, in smell that is.
Oh and there is no need to use any kind of cleaner, that will not be good for the gears.
Almost forgot...there is no easy way of cleaning the interals of the diff as far as the gears are concerned...they don't really create sludge like the engine does. If one really wants to clean the inside of the diff and the gears, they'd have to pull the carrier which is a really big task...and is not practical. Unless you're swapping gears to a different ratio, which of course requires you to remove the carrier, cleaning is not needed.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator
"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.
-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Brush Gaurd, meant for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, now fitted to the RRC
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
Last edited by RageRover : 08-03-2006 at 02:05 PM.
What to do is remove the bottom plug first...then right after remove the one on the front face to aid in the draining. If you want, you can use sealant tape, for fittings on the threads of the plugs, once you've cleaned the plugs, to prevent future leaking.
I've always heard to remove the filler plug first. Just in case you can't get it off you won't be left with an empty diff.
how often do u change the diff oil? so the level marking for the diff is part of the plug? the only way to check the level and to c if clean is my the plug? so it is pretty easy? how did u get the oil into the hole. did u find a pump that fits around the bottle?
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
how often do u change the diff oil? so the level marking for the diff is part of the plug? the only way to check the level and to c if clean is my the plug? so it is pretty easy? how did u get the oil into the hole. did u find a pump that fits around the bottle?
Changing the oil should depend on how hard you are on your vehicle. ie: I often wheel in wet and muddy conditions, so I change the diff oil quite often. Now if driven only on the street just follow LR's service guide lines. Yeah you know it is full when you fill it level to the top fill hole, really easy. As far as how to get the oil in there there are a couple different ways. I found the buying a fluid transfer pump for like $10-$15 is the easiest way for me, found at any autoparts store.
Changing the oil should depend on how hard you are on your vehicle. ie: I often wheel in wet and muddy conditions, so I change the diff oil quite often. Now if driven only on the street just follow LR's service guide lines. Yeah you know it is full when you fill it level to the top fill hole, really easy. As far as how to get the oil in there there are a couple different ways. I found the buying a fluid transfer pump for like $10-$15 is the easiest way for me, found at any autoparts store.
everyone, thanks for the tips! so it just when it is full to the top, that sounds good!!! i also read that u should take the filler plug off 1st so u dont get stuck. i didnt check the manual, they should have the oil type to put in there?
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
It does make a great deal of sense to remove the filler plug first, good thinking Kevin!
Yes the manual tells you what kind of oil you want, depending on the outside temp. ranges. Here in MI, dead of summer, and from what I see a dull winter, I would go 90W.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator
"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.
-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Brush Gaurd, meant for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, now fitted to the RRC
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
If it is black in such a short time, they either didn't do it or did not empty it all out. Don't worry about cleaning it out just cause the oil is black. Now if you saw metal shavings or cheunks, then you would want to explore some more.
Mike
you guys f---ing rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks for the tips. i got under the truck and saw there was no cap. but it it now makes sense THANKS RAGEROVER AND DISCO MIKE you both are a wealth of knowledge
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follow your heart .to central america
-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Brush Gaurd, meant for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, now fitted to the RRC
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
Just for the benefit of newer owners who might find this thread (or who are reading it now), the plugs are removed and retightened with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. This is obvious if you get under the truck and look at the plugs, but it seems almost too obvious the first time you look. It's an easy job, just a little stinky as RageRover pointed out.
OK, OK...a lot stinky. Don't spill it anywhere, trust me
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Becca
Land Limo & Wilks
It doesn't have to be fun to be fun. -- Mark Twight
i was going w/ the lucas 80/90 gear oil for the diffs like badger1 used for his rrc. should there be another grade for the winter or will the 80/90 gear oil will be good?
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
i was going w/ the lucas 80/90 gear oil for the diffs like badger1 used for his rrc. should there be another grade for the winter or will the 80/90 gear oil will be good?
Your 80/90W if fine for year round driving, Hell, I run 90/140W, my lockers love it.
Mike
your way, I think it will be too heavy, this is my first year in Colo. and I may drop mine, it is a wait and see thing.
Mike
thanks alot!! i was wonding w/ the MN -20's w/ out wind chills!! fun times. i hop to move in acouple of yr's. your way, CO, MT, or back to new england (Maine or VT or NH)? trying to look to buy a INN or B&B on some farm land and new england has alot of those but i love the rock mountains!
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
i was going w/ the lucas 80/90 gear oil for the diffs like badger1 used for his rrc. should there be another grade for the winter or will the 80/90 gear oil will be good?
Lets face it Lucas is no better than Casterol.. you can probably get synthetic for the same price as the lucas..
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Any advice given in this forum is my 2 cents, which is roughly the value of said advice!
Lets face it Lucas is no better than Casterol.. you can probably get synthetic for the same price as the lucas..
everyone has there brand! i always used castrol engine oil and i like lucas to. i did not say one was better then the other, if u have read all the above post. mike and badger1 just recommended lucas.
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
[quote=landlimo]I would say just buy whatever recognized brand the store stocks in sufficient quantity to complete the job.[/QUOTE
another good point!!!!
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld