DIY Transmission Replacement Questions

[BullDogSix]

Hello all. New Rover convert here.

I've just obtained a VERY nice 1994 RRC LWB with 80k and a blown transmission.

I've done this a couple of times with other makes (GM, and Infiniti) so I know the basic procedure. Is there anything special I need to know to pull or reinstall the trans? Special tools? Hints? Tips?

Thanks, you all Rock!

[57loboy]

Just did mine in a '95 LWB not too long ago...in my garage, on jackstands with no air tools, just me and a creeper!

Mechanically the concepts are the same as others you've likely worked on. That said, the English did do things a little odd when compared to others.

First off, get yourself the factory service manual on CD or from the links out there on the web...much very useful information there including step-by-step for the tranny removal. I'll summarize my experience here and am sure others will chime in with some details I am sure to overlook.

First, the tranny/xfer case combo is very heavy and awkwardly shaped compared to anything else I've ever worked on. If you have access to a lift, you'll be a step ahead. I did mine in my garage on jackstands. Not the easiest, but doable. I used two floor jacks to tilt/lift and get the unit(s) out and in.

To sum it up:
You'll have to remove (in no particular order): the front & rear drive shafts, exhaust y-pipe (watch for broken studs in the manifold!), remove the engine cooling fan (the engine needs to tilt quite aways back and you'll stuff the fan into the radiator otherwise) and also remove the frame crossmember. (that is easier said than done as you must spread the frame slightly to remove it - really!)

Depending on how well maintained yours has been, it may have been out for routine transmission filter changes at least once before. It was common for this service to be skipped because there is no way to remove the tranny filter without taking it out. I used a large prybar to lever it out without too much effort. Others have used bottle jacks and even a hi-lift jack to spread the frame. If you find rust holes behind the flanges, don't be surprised...

I took the xfer case off first and then the tranny as it made it easier to remove than the whole unit at once. I did the reverse for the install. While in there, I suggest replacing the rubber mounts (heat beats them up bad) and put in a new tranny output seal and the same one for the xfer case where the spud shaft goes in (same PN as the rear seal on the tranny)

Some say to remove the intake plenum to get at the upper bellhousing bolts - I didn't have to even though I had removed the heads for a valve/head gasket replacement at the same time.

To remove the xfer case you'll need to remove the interior console to get at the shift linkage and parking brake cable. The parking brake is a big drum on the back of the xfer case. It sounds scarier than it really is.

Also make sure your tranny cooler lines are in good shape and you should be fine.... PM me with any questions, Good luck!

[BullDogSix]

Thanks for the info. I've been reading a bunch up on the RRC here and other spots around the net...so I feel pretty confident. However spreading the frame rails to allow the tranny to be removed is a first...that's just messed up.

[Elemental]

Actually, you would be smart to take off the Intake to get to the top bolts. With the intake off you can use a box wrench.

And, before someone says..."But my intake isnt leaking, why take it off."

Come on, it's a Rover, you KNOW its leaking anyways.

[57loboy]

Originally Posted by BullDogSix

Thanks for the info. I've been reading a bunch up on the RRC here and other spots around the net...so I feel pretty confident. However spreading the frame rails to allow the tranny to be removed is a first...that's just messed up.

The English are known to do things that are, well - different... I am married to one so I've had some interesting experiences as a result.

I reacted the same way when I found out about the crossmember and was almost ready to farm out the work for big $$. I am glad I did it myself in the end as it really wasn't all that bad. My LWB doesn't have any of the usual rust as it was a NYC garage queen its entire life before I got it from the original owner. I know I lucked out in that - hopefully yours is not too bad.

When you look at the flanges on either end, if they look like thay've been manhandled out of the ends are bent a little, chances are it's been out at least once during its life. I was surprised at how easily it came out once a got it levered down a little on one side.