DOH!!! Ball Joints - Land Rovers Only

Kevin88RRC · 06-25-2005, 11:51 AM

Just noticed that all my ball joints are shot! There is A LOT of movement. I can rotate the drag link and the track rod about 45º. And I think it might have toasted my stabilizer too.

So... is this a project for a newbie? The 3 ball joints seem straight forward, but the drop arm seems a little intimidating. I want to do the work plus I can't pay for a shop. I figure I could buy the needed tools for the same price that a shop would cost. A ball joint splitter/extractor and a large vice?

Also, what would cause them to go? Last time I was under doing work they seemed fine. I do have a 3" lift without any castor adjustment... would that do it?

Thanks!

Kevin88RRC · 06-25-2005, 12:23 PM

Actually, after looking at her again, how do I know if they are shot? Being that they are ball joints shouldn't they rotate some?

TerryS · 06-25-2005, 01:32 PM

Yes, they should rotate a bit though I don't think it's as much as 45 degrees. Have some one get in the car (engine running) and lightly turn the steering wheel back and forth. You, of coarse, will be taking the leap of faith and lying underneath the front of the truck watching each joint. Only turn the wheel a small amiount, maybe 30 degrees. If the joint is tight, you will not see any movement between the shank and ball.
If you have a 3" Lift, lay in a fore and aft relationship with the truck. This way, If the person behind the wheel is suddenly overcome by demons, they will drive right over you without injury.

choffa@comcast.net · 06-25-2005, 05:44 PM

The rotation is normal. Check as per the other post, any play is grounds for replacement. Removing them is straightforward. Get a small gear puller, remove cotter pin & nut, put puller on & apply tension, then smack the sterring arm with a hammer, joint should pop out. Or use a fork & smack it hard. Pitman arm (steering box drop link) is more difficult depending on year. Older ones have the replacable joint in the drop arm. This is a bitch to replace. Arm is splined to the steering box, held with a large nut & rusted tight. You'll need a stout pitman arm puller, penetrating oil & likely a torch. Joint can be replaced with a vice & snap ring tool.

When removing the old tie rod ends, count the number of turns to allow the new ones to go in relatively close. Use penetrating oil on the adjuster links the night before to help break them free. Loosen only one side (next to the tie rod end, so you don't lose the alignment.

CJH

glenncof · 06-26-2005, 05:45 PM

Ball joints ? You mean tie rod ends, I believe, as these babies use swivel housings.

Anyhow, I have replace tie rod ends without re-alignment. I measure the length 'very' carefully and I do one side at a time (if two are needed), checking alignment after each side. I would say accuracy needs to be 1/8".

Yea, I did screw up once and was able to correct. It was a Porsche 911, I had to estimate where a locking nut was judging from the rust. After I realized my mistake, corrected it and it was perfect.

Kevin88RRC · 06-27-2005, 04:40 AM

Thanks for the replies.
Well I think I panicked a little. The tie rod ends/ball joints appear fine. But the drop arm ball joint has a little hop to it. Is that something that could be fixed by re-torqueing?

glenncof · 07-03-2005, 05:12 PM

I doubt. I think these are called pitman arms. Look at it carefully when someone is moving steering wheel.

I did have one replaced on Chevy Tahoe and had vibration at highway speed. They needed to retighten. (They even forgot to tighten the tie rod ends that were removed to replace the arm, shops....arrr)

Triple R · 07-16-2005, 12:09 PM

I had the misfortune of doing all my joints and did not sit the circlip on the pitman arm correctly.One 1/2 mile later extremely loose steering and the sound of clinking as the circlip,spring and the small disc that held it all together fell out and hit the ground running.Luckily I had saved all the old pieces and had to reinstall them.TAKE YOUR TIME..get a small brush(old toothbrush and clean the groove the circlip sits in).I was lucky I was not far from home,If I had been on the highway I would been very sorry..Good luck

John C · 07-16-2005, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

Thanks for the replies.
Well I think I panicked a little. The tie rod ends/ball joints appear fine. But the drop arm ball joint has a little hop to it. Is that something that could be fixed by re-torqueing?

There is a repair kit for the drop arm tie rod/ball joint. Very easy to fix and yes they do go bad.

OkieRover · 07-17-2005, 08:08 PM

Tie rods
Read about my experience here.

http://www.okierover.com/tierod.htm

I think you can do it if you have the tools.

06-25-2005, 11:51 AM	#1 (permalink)
Kevin88RRC Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 702 Gallery: 0	DOH!!! Ball Joints Just noticed that all my ball joints are shot! There is A LOT of movement. I can rotate the drag link and the track rod about 45º. And I think it might have toasted my stabilizer too. So... is this a project for a newbie? The 3 ball joints seem straight forward, but the drop arm seems a little intimidating. I want to do the work plus I can't pay for a shop. I figure I could buy the needed tools for the same price that a shop would cost. A ball joint splitter/extractor and a large vice? Also, what would cause them to go? Last time I was under doing work they seemed fine. I do have a 3" lift without any castor adjustment... would that do it? Thanks! __________________ Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey"

06-25-2005, 12:23 PM	#2 (permalink)
Kevin88RRC Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 702 Gallery: 0	Actually, after looking at her again, how do I know if they are shot? Being that they are ball joints shouldn't they rotate some? __________________ Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey"

06-25-2005, 05:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
choffa@comcast.net Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Suburbs of Philadelphia, PA Posts: 60 Gallery: 0	The rotation is normal. Check as per the other post, any play is grounds for replacement. Removing them is straightforward. Get a small gear puller, remove cotter pin & nut, put puller on & apply tension, then smack the sterring arm with a hammer, joint should pop out. Or use a fork & smack it hard. Pitman arm (steering box drop link) is more difficult depending on year. Older ones have the replacable joint in the drop arm. This is a bitch to replace. Arm is splined to the steering box, held with a large nut & rusted tight. You'll need a stout pitman arm puller, penetrating oil & likely a torch. Joint can be replaced with a vice & snap ring tool. When removing the old tie rod ends, count the number of turns to allow the new ones to go in relatively close. Use penetrating oil on the adjuster links the night before to help break them free. Loosen only one side (next to the tie rod end, so you don't lose the alignment. CJH __________________ CJH 1990 Rangie Philadelphia, PA

06-27-2005, 04:40 AM	#6 (permalink)
Kevin88RRC Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 702 Gallery: 0	Thanks for the replies. Well I think I panicked a little. The tie rod ends/ball joints appear fine. But the drop arm ball joint has a little hop to it. Is that something that could be fixed by re-torqueing? __________________ Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey"

07-16-2005, 12:09 PM	#8 (permalink)
Triple R Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NYC Posts: 52 Gallery: 0	Make sure you install the circlip correctly. I had the misfortune of doing all my joints and did not sit the circlip on the pitman arm correctly.One 1/2 mile later extremely loose steering and the sound of clinking as the circlip,spring and the small disc that held it all together fell out and hit the ground running.Luckily I had saved all the old pieces and had to reinstall them.TAKE YOUR TIME..get a small brush(old toothbrush and clean the groove the circlip sits in).I was lucky I was not far from home,If I had been on the highway I would been very sorry..Good luck

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06-25-2005, 01:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
TerryS Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life. Posts: 2,139 Gallery: 0	Yes, they should rotate a bit though I don't think it's as much as 45 degrees. Have some one get in the car (engine running) and lightly turn the steering wheel back and forth. You, of coarse, will be taking the leap of faith and lying underneath the front of the truck watching each joint. Only turn the wheel a small amiount, maybe 30 degrees. If the joint is tight, you will not see any movement between the shank and ball. If you have a 3" Lift, lay in a fore and aft relationship with the truck. This way, If the person behind the wheel is suddenly overcome by demons, they will drive right over you without injury.

06-26-2005, 05:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
glenncof Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 95 Gallery: 0	Ball joints ? You mean tie rod ends, I believe, as these babies use swivel housings. Anyhow, I have replace tie rod ends without re-alignment. I measure the length 'very' carefully and I do one side at a time (if two are needed), checking alignment after each side. I would say accuracy needs to be 1/8". Yea, I did screw up once and was able to correct. It was a Porsche 911, I had to estimate where a locking nut was judging from the rust. After I realized my mistake, corrected it and it was perfect.

07-03-2005, 05:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
glenncof Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 95 Gallery: 0	I doubt. I think these are called pitman arms. Look at it carefully when someone is moving steering wheel. I did have one replaced on Chevy Tahoe and had vibration at highway speed. They needed to retighten. (They even forgot to tighten the tie rod ends that were removed to replace the arm, shops....arrr)

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