Engine Removal / Replacement - Land Rovers Only

Sign Guy · 10-30-2007, 04:11 PM

I have an engine on the way (well as of tomorrow when I pay for it). Local shop wants $1500 plus an estimated $300 in unforeseen parts to do the swap. OkieRover says this job is hell. Anybody else done it? How bad was it for you? I am planning on getting everything to the point of hanking it out and then renting an engine hoist. Any tips?

ArmyRover · 10-30-2007, 05:22 PM

1. Sacrifice 2 female virgins must be no older than 21.
2. For 2 weeks before the start of the project bang your head repeatedly against the front bumper this will serve to harden your head for when you get fustrated and start banging it against the wall
3. Buy the rover a full set of new tires always good to bribe it.

Seriously label everything you disconnect take tons of pics bag all bolts and nuts and label them also take notes to go with the pics and labels

above all else take your time when you get in a hurry is when you screw up and it's usually costly.

p76rangie · 10-31-2007, 01:59 AM

Just completed one last week. Pulled out 2 motors, fully stripped one, partially stripped another, rebuilt partially stripped and refitted.
Just pulling one out and putting another in is probably a weekend's job

TerryS · 10-31-2007, 06:08 AM

The WORST part of the job are the bellhousing bolts. The ones one the upper side are so close to the bulkhead, you'll be talking to yourself.

p76rangie · 10-31-2007, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryS

The WORST part of the job are the bellhousing bolts. The ones one the upper side are so close to the bulkhead, you'll be talking to yourself.

Two things can make it easier.
1) Remove the RUBBER engine mount and lower the motor so that it is just the two metal mounts resting on each other. This increases the working space to a useable level.
2) Get an old 9/16th spanner that you don't care too much about and bend it. Makes it a lot easy to use in the tight space.

57loboy · 10-31-2007, 07:10 AM

If the engine is coming out anyway, I've been told to remove the heads first to get to the top bellhousing bolts with more room. I'll be doing that on my '95 as I need to pull the tranny and do the headgaskets...

roverandom · 10-31-2007, 11:46 AM

x2 on the bagging and labeling of stuff you remove, also taking lots of pic's.
It is not as hard as you may think to R&R a engine. Just be sure that you have everything you need before you start. Inspect and replace anything that could be damaging to your new engine or will be hard to get at once the engine is re-installed.
Re-core your rad, for the money it costs to have it re-cored it is worth it. You don't want all that crap from your old rad running into your new engine.
Try to get your engine out and the new one in as soon as possible. This way everything will still be fresh in your mind. Don't get it out and then call it a day, then get tied up doing something else. I did this once and 3 years later the engine is still sitting on the shop floor waiting for me to install it. Worst of all, I can't find half the crap I removed off the engine!
As always a buddy, a six pack and a pizza make it more fun!

57loboy · 11-01-2007, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverandom

Try to get your engine out and the new one in as soon as possible. This way everything will still be fresh in your mind. Don't get it out and then call it a day, then get tied up doing something else. I did this once and 3 years later the engine is still sitting on the shop floor waiting for me to install it. Worst of all, I can't find half the crap I removed off the engine!
As always a buddy, a six pack and a pizza make it more fun!

Been there, done that and I agree completely! That's why I've not yet started on my project though I have all the parts ready to do all that I need to do. I want to do it all at once so it's fresh and I leverage the "momentum" to get it done.

Elemental · 11-01-2007, 07:33 AM

Take off the intake for the upper bolts. Install the engine without the intake to tighten them. Makes it SO much easier.

Bolt your chain to the intake bolt holes to get it back in....

Actually, as far as engines go, Classics are pretty easy to replace...

Worst engine of my carrer to replace was a 95 Bonneville with a 3.8.... Jesus Christ that thing was aweful!

roverandom · 11-03-2007, 09:27 PM

A Ford V10, only 4 of the 10 cylinders are ahead of the windscreen!
A Jaguar V12....... need I say more!

p76rangie · 11-04-2007, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elemental

Bolt your chain to the intake bolt holes to get it back in....

A lot of the motors have eyes bolted to the heads to lift the motor out. If they are there, they are on the back passenger side and front drivers side. I am not sure whether I would risk damaginng the intake manifold bolts or threads by using them to pull the motor out.

TerryS · 11-04-2007, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p76rangie

A lot of the motors have eyes bolted to the heads to lift the motor out. If they are there, they are on the back passenger side and front drivers side. I am not sure whether I would risk damaginng the intake manifold bolts or threads by using them to pull the motor out.

100% agreed. Even though the LR long block isn't that heavy, only use the lifting eyes they provide, or some other point where the bolt is either horizontal (in shear) or vertical (in Tension) anytime you hook up to one out of vertical or horizontal, like the intake bolt threads in the head (at 45 degrees) you run the risk of bending the bolt, and f'n the threads in the head

Sign Guy · 11-04-2007, 07:37 AM

What does the long block wiegh? I read through the manual and it does say to pull the motor mounts to ease access to the upper bell housing bolts. Going to pull the radiator today as a first step and hope to have the whole thing done over the course of two weeks. I already have plenty of pictures and all the wiring is still labeled from the head gasket replacement. Thanks, for all the response!

Elemental · 11-04-2007, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p76rangie

A lot of the motors have eyes bolted to the heads to lift the motor out. If they are there, they are on the back passenger side and front drivers side. I am not sure whether I would risk damaginng the intake manifold bolts or threads by using them to pull the motor out.

What risk? Those holes arent any stronger then the ones for the intake.
I have to have r&r'ed at least 30 Rover engines in my carrer and had zero failure doign it my way.

I dont use the intake BOLTS, I use bolts with the same thread and hook them up in the holes.

10-30-2007, 04:11 PM	#1 (permalink)
Sign Guy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Newnan, GA Posts: 114 Gallery: 0	Engine Removal / Replacement I have an engine on the way (well as of tomorrow when I pay for it). Local shop wants $1500 plus an estimated $300 in unforeseen parts to do the swap. OkieRover says this job is hell. Anybody else done it? How bad was it for you? I am planning on getting everything to the point of hanking it out and then renting an engine hoist. Any tips? __________________ Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! O Crap! decals - $3.00 to your door.

10-30-2007, 05:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
ArmyRover Rebuilding Rover Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NH Posts: 2,292 Gallery: 0	1. Sacrifice 2 female virgins must be no older than 21. 2. For 2 weeks before the start of the project bang your head repeatedly against the front bumper this will serve to harden your head for when you get fustrated and start banging it against the wall 3. Buy the rover a full set of new tires always good to bribe it. Seriously label everything you disconnect take tons of pics bag all bolts and nuts and label them also take notes to go with the pics and labels above all else take your time when you get in a hurry is when you screw up and it's usually costly. __________________ "Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://www.wheelinrovers.com/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater

10-31-2007, 07:10 AM	#6 (permalink)
57loboy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Newtown, CT Posts: 139 Gallery: 0	If the engine is coming out anyway, I've been told to remove the heads first to get to the top bellhousing bolts with more room. I'll be doing that on my '95 as I need to pull the tranny and do the headgaskets... __________________ '95 RRC LWB, '05 Suburban Z71 (not stock), '94 F350 (only the cab shell & rear bumper is original), '62 International 404 tractor (red & white) & many other project cars in the past!

10-31-2007, 11:46 AM	#7 (permalink)
roverandom Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Alberta,Canada. Posts: 402 Gallery: 0	x2 on the bagging and labeling of stuff you remove, also taking lots of pic's. It is not as hard as you may think to R&R a engine. Just be sure that you have everything you need before you start. Inspect and replace anything that could be damaging to your new engine or will be hard to get at once the engine is re-installed. Re-core your rad, for the money it costs to have it re-cored it is worth it. You don't want all that crap from your old rad running into your new engine. Try to get your engine out and the new one in as soon as possible. This way everything will still be fresh in your mind. Don't get it out and then call it a day, then get tied up doing something else. I did this once and 3 years later the engine is still sitting on the shop floor waiting for me to install it. Worst of all, I can't find half the crap I removed off the engine! As always a buddy, a six pack and a pizza make it more fun! __________________ "Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" The Italian job 1969.

11-01-2007, 07:33 AM	#9 (permalink)
Elemental Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3,293 Gallery: 0	Take off the intake for the upper bolts. Install the engine without the intake to tighten them. Makes it SO much easier. Bolt your chain to the intake bolt holes to get it back in.... Actually, as far as engines go, Classics are pretty easy to replace... Worst engine of my carrer to replace was a 95 Bonneville with a 3.8.... Jesus Christ that thing was aweful! __________________ I only worry about myself, screw the others.

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10-31-2007, 01:59 AM	#3 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,140 Gallery: 0	Just completed one last week. Pulled out 2 motors, fully stripped one, partially stripped another, rebuilt partially stripped and refitted. Just pulling one out and putting another in is probably a weekend's job

10-31-2007, 06:08 AM	#4 (permalink)
TerryS Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life. Posts: 2,229 Gallery: 0	The WORST part of the job are the bellhousing bolts. The ones one the upper side are so close to the bulkhead, you'll be talking to yourself.

11-03-2007, 09:27 PM	#10 (permalink)
roverandom Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Alberta,Canada. Posts: 402 Gallery: 0	A Ford V10, only 4 of the 10 cylinders are ahead of the windscreen! A Jaguar V12....... need I say more! __________________ "Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" The Italian job 1969.

11-04-2007, 07:37 AM	#13 (permalink)
Sign Guy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Newnan, GA Posts: 114 Gallery: 0	What does the long block wiegh? I read through the manual and it does say to pull the motor mounts to ease access to the upper bell housing bolts. Going to pull the radiator today as a first step and hope to have the whole thing done over the course of two weeks. I already have plenty of pictures and all the wiring is still labeled from the head gasket replacement. Thanks, for all the response! __________________ Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! O Crap! decals - $3.00 to your door.

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