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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 683
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this is the POS bumper that is on there now:
![]() I want to replace it with a winch mount/ more sturdy bumper. I have pretty well narrowed the field to these 2 replacements: ARB: ![]() or this one from RoverTym ![]() I am leaning towards the RoverTym as I am going to go with their sliders, and theirs has that skid plate as an option. Any of you guys have either one, what do you think?
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current rides: 2004 Land Rover Discovery II SE7 (still stock) 1992 Range Rover Classic (work in Progress) 2003 Audi allroad (more than a little modified) 1999 BMW R1100S 2001 BMW 330i (wife needed something to drive) |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Large Land Mammal
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Around....
Posts: 149
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I have a GDE, like the ARB. I like the clearance of the Rovertym and HD recovery points. I like the ARB as it has a more "complete" bumper look, not the chopped look.
For form, ARB. For OFFROAD function RT... Also, you can get a skid plate in aluminum for under the ARB from like RN/Ab too....
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" We sleep safely in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm." G.Orwell. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Forward!
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Go RT!!
A much more stout piece, and like said above if you plan on wheeling....the RT bumper is a much better bumper. Have an ARB on my 2000 D2, and am planning on upgrading to the Rovertym one. The ARB is just not sturdy enough and acts like a plow when offroading.
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1997 Disco 1 2000 Disco 2 1989 RR(gone but not forgotten )Miami Valley Land Rover Society www.mvlrs.com ON WISCONSIN |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Get in, hold on!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 627
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Per your sliders... if you're gonna do any serious wheeling here in colo. i wouldn't get sliders that mount to the body. I've seen even reinforced body mount ones come up into the doors. i would get some that are frame mounted. there are a few shops around where you can find the frame mounted ones, rockware down in the springs does pretty good work.
These are a set I made for SoDirty on the board... ![]() ![]() I also made a set for rovertrain his was for a discovery, i've watched him slam his into rocks and they haven't moved at all.
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Quote:
-TsiArt ![]() 1989 Mercedes 190D 1985 Toyota 4Runner 1985 Subaru GL wagon |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
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I'd have to disagree with the lower sill mount issue. First you should look at the boxing and check for rust which could cause the slider to go into the doors if it is weakend by serious rust. Second don't buy any sliders that only mount to the outside of the lower sill and use the existing rivnut holes, These will definitly smash your doors and you'll have to bend them back to get your doors open. I build some for Classic's and DI's that I would put money down that they won't bend at all period. You need to look for the ones that are built like channels and clamp the sill with bolts that go thru the sill. I don't know him but I've seen the ones that Mark Oliverres (hope I spelled that right) builds and these are like that and He's not too far from you if he's still building them.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Rocky Mountain High
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9,996
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Quote:
I disagree... every sill mount that gets serious use here just bend the hell out of the truck!! Frame mount is the only way to go... |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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Get in, hold on!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 627
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Quote:
because like just about anything everyone is going to have their opinion, so i'm just stating some points, here in colorado most of our harder trails (if not all) are rocky, rocks which are bigger than the truck. so when your slider falls on these rocks, they don't give, period. this is unlike most other places that i've seen other than similar places out west, (moab, california, etc) from most of what i've seen of other area's while narly you're dealing with smaller rocks and more dirt and mud. both of which will give when you put a 6k lb rig on top. and while i agree if you have a rusted body you're going to have trouble, but i've watched perfectly rust free body's give under slider stress.(after all this is colorado and rust isn't a huge problem here) So with this in mind is why i say go to the frame here in colorado. the sliders that i build for people out here consist of 1/4" box and 1/4" plate for mounting, because of the terrain out here. when i watch rovertrain land on a rock, my sliders have 0 deflection. what you get should depend on your needs.
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Quote:
-TsiArt ![]() 1989 Mercedes 190D 1985 Toyota 4Runner 1985 Subaru GL wagon |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Solihull Society, CO and High Desert Rovers, NM Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,270
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I was wondering how a 1995 crush can bumper ended up on your 1992.
I've done an ARB to replace a bumper just like yours with new crush can covers from Rovers North, and I made more selling the bumper on eBay that I spent on the ARB. I found the bumper to be sufficient for off road, I have seen them twist under hard hits on the outside. My 1992 has a thin type (Safari Gard) and I certainly don't have clearance issues, it does take a bit to get used to the fully exposed guts look of the thin bumpers though.
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Todd Carpe Rangius Roverum |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,101
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I would go for the ARB bar. They are designed to give the required strength with a minimum of weight. The approach angles on both bars would be virtually identical and not enough to make any real difference.
If regard to side protection, I would not waste my money on the type of rock sliders listed above. They may protect you from rocks coming up from underneath, but offer very little protect from the side. Your side panels srick out further that the rock sliders above, without taking into account any angle of the vehicle. To have any real strength, they also need to be mounted back to the chassis as well as the sills. That my 2 cents worth. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,889
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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Get in, hold on!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 627
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__________________
Quote:
-TsiArt ![]() 1989 Mercedes 190D 1985 Toyota 4Runner 1985 Subaru GL wagon |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 683
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thanks for the input guys. it will probably be a month or two until I do anything about the bumper or the sliders.
I will have to look for some sliders that attach to the frame, mostly because that sill by the drivers door does have some rust. I hadnt really looked at how those RT ones mount. I do like the usefulness of the step though. hmmm, I'll have to see what I can find and will chase down some of these recommendations. oh, and FWIW, the previous owner left me with the reason why the sliders are needed - some nice door dents from not having them: ![]()
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current rides: 2004 Land Rover Discovery II SE7 (still stock) 1992 Range Rover Classic (work in Progress) 2003 Audi allroad (more than a little modified) 1999 BMW R1100S 2001 BMW 330i (wife needed something to drive) |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Orange, VA
Posts: 29
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95 D1 91 RR Hunter Eastnor Green |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 683
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__________________
current rides: 2004 Land Rover Discovery II SE7 (still stock) 1992 Range Rover Classic (work in Progress) 2003 Audi allroad (more than a little modified) 1999 BMW R1100S 2001 BMW 330i (wife needed something to drive) |
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