fuel pump fuse keeps blowing

[WNCclassic]

Hey guys, 95 classic shuts down while driving down the road. Blown fuel pump fuse. Replaced it 4 times and immediately blows when I turn on the ignition. Where can I start? 116,000 miles on the clock. My only transportation and hoping someone can help expedite this process. I'm brand new to the forum as a member but have enjoyed the wealth of info and entertainment for some time now. Thanks everyone!

[RageRover]

Hi WNC, Welcome to LRO for starters.

That is a similar problem I had with my other car, but that was a different kinda case. I ended up tracing the problem back to the MAF Sensor, and the fuel control circuit in it was fried, and the fuel pump would turn off, and stay off. I used a jumper wire from that circuit directly to ground so the pump would run all the time from the second the key is turned to on.

In your case, you might have a short in the circuit. Also try to disconnect the battery for 15 secs or more, to reset the computer. But before you do that, have to ask, do you, or did you have a check engine light at all?

Also the pump could have high resistance in the pump itself and doesn't pump at all, and blows the fuse. But does the fuse blow when the key is turned to On, and the engine off?

[WNCclassic]

Thanks Pat, No check engine lights or codes being thrown. It does blow the second I turn on the key, If it does crank its just barely runs with obviously minimal fuel getting there. Checked the wires to the fuel pump, connections ok but the cluster just above the rear muffler (resonator ) seem a little brittle and may have some heat damage from the exhaust.

[Disco Mike]

Might start symple, check your relay, is it fried, how about a pinched wire? Unhook the power connection to the pump and replae the fuse, see if it still blows, that will rull out a bad pump and indicate a bad wire or relay.
Mike

[Rovin4life]

Disco Mike is right. Thats the only way to check an short in the system.

Cut off the leaves first on the tree and then the smaller branches before you cut the cut off trunk.

In a car you start with everything at the end of the circuit and then continue till the end.

Heres a trick if it doesnt short out with the pump, then cut the wire a short distance after the harness if need be.

If you can buy yourself a circuit breaker.

I got one and its works miracles. No extra fuses needed and has a light that goes off when there is no longer a short in the system.

[RageRover]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Might start symple, check your relay, is it fried, how about a pinched wire? Unhook the power connection to the pump and replae the fuse, see if it still blows, that will rull out a bad pump and indicate a bad wire or relay.
Mike

x2, Mike has it good here, just a simple test to see if the relay is bad, or wire.

[WNCclassic]

Got It!! Thanks Disco Mike, Pat, and Yoda. GIven my lick lately I was ready to cut the trunk off and buy a fuel pump. All I needed was some wire, shrink wrap and about 5 bucks! It was the set of wires above the rear muffler that go to the fuel pump and fuel filler release. Thanks guys, Now anyone have a way I can get rid of the rotoflex setup for cheap!

[RageRover]

They do make rear dirveshafts, that eliminate the use of the rotoflex, but is in the $400 range, and so I decide just to use what hasen't yet broke, and drive on the rotoflex. If you off road a lot, a spare rotoflex is usually recommended, as I heard they can go bad frequently on off road conditions.

I am currently just trying to find a used rotoflex as a spare for a long trip to CO next month.