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Old 04-17-2008, 04:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hard Brake Pedal

Just finished installing new calipers, pads, & rotors (non-ABS). After bleeding brakes twice, the pedal feels hard with just a short movement. I will bleed them again to make sure there's no air stuck. Does air make a hard or soft pedal? Vacuum leaks cause soft pedal too right?

When I was changing out the calipers, the brake fluid dropped extremely low in the reservoir. Could that have done something to the master cylinder or servo?
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Old 04-17-2008, 05:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Air in the lines in my experience makes for a very soft squishy brake pedal.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If I am not mistaken RRC brakes are supposed to be firmer. They are not vacuum assisted but pressurized by pump.
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Old 04-17-2008, 12:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If I am not mistaken RRC brakes are supposed to be firmer. They are not vacuum assisted but pressurized by pump.
Kevin's truck is non ABS, he has no pump. If it were an ABS truck it would point to bad accumulator, diaphragm gone, no nitrogen cusion. Very hard pedal in a non ABS truck makes me think servo isn't functioning. Short travel may be just that you have new pads and clearance to disc is minimum (which is OK)
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Old 04-17-2008, 01:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Very hard pedal in a non ABS truck makes me think servo isn't functioning.
Is there a way to test the servo?
The pedal feels a lot better now. Initially I could not hear not hear the servo but it seems to be working. Also feels better with a higher RPM. I think the new Insky cam creates less vacuum at idle
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Old 04-17-2008, 03:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Also feels better with a higher RPM. I think the new Insky cam creates less vacuum at idle
That's probably more perception than reality. Your highest vacuum will be when the throttle plate is closed, especially coming off a high rev, but close even at standing idle. Check the connections at the servo, the rubber grommet on the servo, and the connection on the righthand side of your plenum base plate. Look the hose over for cracks. If you're still suspicious of a vacuum leak, get some carb cleaner and spray all the connections and along the hose, with the engine running. If you detect an increase in rpm, there's your leak.
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