Its official, my head gaskets are shot. What else besides the gaskets do I need to get in order to do this job? Do all of the head bolts need to be replaced? For those of you who have done this would you do it again? I'm going to be operating in an air conditioned garage but I won't have a great deal of space. Not really looking forward to it but I'm not willing to shell out more than I paid for the truck to have someone else to do something that I can get through even though it may take me weeks of spare time.
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
If you have a manual (very important) and some tools, are a carefull and methodical worker there is no reason you can not replace the headgaskets yourself. Yes you will need to replace the head bolts with new one's or you could go for studs for better sealing/even clampload etc. Now is also the time to renew any/all gaskets,plugs,hose's,belt's etc that look worn and clean everything within a inch of its life. While the engine is in bits take a look at the condition the heads, valves, pistons, rings, cylinders, block etc and anything else you can get to, might as well know the whole story before you put it back togeather. Oh, and don't forget to change your oil and coolant.
__________________
"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" Charlie Croaker. The Italian Job. 1969.
As roverandom stated, it is not that difficult. As indicated, replace the bolts with studs as this will prevent the head gasket going again. Only specialised tool you will need is a tension wrench and a manual.
All the gaskets you will need will come in a kit. It is called a Valve Grind kit, rather than a full engine gasket kit.
If I could do it, I'm sure you'll be just fine.
When I did mine I also changed the cam, tappets, & pushrods. And the timing set too. Giving your milage you should think about it.
Get lots of cleaners!
Here's a link to mine.... Top End Rebuild
If you haven't do a search here. There's a lot of info on it.
Its official, my head gaskets are shot. What else besides the gaskets do I need to get in order to do this job? Do all of the head bolts need to be replaced? For those of you who have done this would you do it again? I'm going to be operating in an air conditioned garage but I won't have a great deal of space. Not really looking forward to it but I'm not willing to shell out more than I paid for the truck to have someone else to do something that I can get through even though it may take me weeks of spare time.
Just buy a kit from Atlantic British or one of the other guys.
It comes with everything you could possibly need. Get the instructions from the manuals and get busy.
Would I do it again?
I had a very good friend help me swap my motor instead of doing a gasket job. Both of us looking back would have preferred to have done the head job.
Get a "valve job" or "head job", it's called different things in different parts of the country, when you get the heads off the motor. It's just a couple of extra hundred but it will mean you have a complete new top end when you finish. Another reason for the head job, is over heating is one of the ways this problem comes up, and once you warp the head with over heating hit has to be planed to correct any problems that may have caused.
Good luck and let us know how it all turned out.
__________________ www.okierover.com
1993 Range Rover LWB
2003 Discovery (R.I.P. wrecked)
Thanks for the replies, it will take me a while but I'll post my experience when I'm done.
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
So far so good, I've got the head off of the passenger side and just have to take the bolts off of the drivers side to get it off. There was a ton of stuff to take off!
Why would the center exhaust valves would be white. Any ideas??
Good news is that I can still see the boring marks on the cylinders so it seems like at least the oil was changed on a regular basis. I've heard of 150K on a Volvo and still being able to see those but I was quite surprised/impressed to see it on this.
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
Isn't white due to steam?
I can't remember. In any event you are taking the heads to a shop to have them "done" so that will be all resolved no matter what.
__________________ www.okierover.com
1993 Range Rover LWB
2003 Discovery (R.I.P. wrecked)
Yeah, I'm taking them to a highly recommended shop. I am figuring $250-300 to get it done. Am I in the ballpark?
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
Did you get them pressure tested for that price or just planed?
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
I've got it put back together and the turn over is very labored and it backfired and blew a few vaccum hoses off. Is this a timing issue? I marked the base of the distributor but it could be off by a degree or two. I supposed it is possible that I put the rotor in opposite of what it would have been. That would explain the backfire but why the labored turnover? Any hints???
Thanks,
Bill
__________________
Bill
93 LWB Sable Edition 170+k miles
ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate!
PTSchram- "If you're willing to go through this with a non-runner, you're VERY well suited to Rover ownership."- THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A TRUER THING SPOKEN!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.