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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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The fuse upgrade and the HOT seat panel was what got me thinking that all might not be well. As for 1 OHM wouldn't that indicate a broken wire. And the element would not heat at all. The reading I got on both seats for the resistance was .8-.9 ohms.
Anybody out there with both the elements working mind taking a reading on the main connector going into the seats? It is easy, just pull the carpet back from under the rear of the center console and the plugs are on either left or right. I had to add in the red wire as it was not in the pic. You can also see where I stripped back the sheath to get better access to the wires. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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Nevermind the 1 OHM comment, .8-.9 is pretty darn close to 1, my(
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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That pic is taken with the camera on the floor board behind the passenger seat looking forward. You can see the retaining clip in the top portion of the picture. I can run either the passenger or the driver with 20 amp fuse in, just not both.
Sven, you've been running this mod for a while, do your seats get to a certain temp and then modulate or do you just switch them off after they have been on for a while? |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
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Cool idea
Basic electrics: If the 2 heating elements are wired in series then doing this would subject the upper element 2 twice the normal voltage, more current and thus, more heat. This seems to be the case here. A resistor would have to match or be close to the wattage of the element to replace the missing wattage of the lower half. It would have to be a fairly big resistor like the ones used on old VWs to convert the original 6V system to 12V. Another way would be to go to a higher value resistor which will dissipate less heat but the seat will not get as hot. I will try this and measure the amp draw of the element to find the needed value of the resistor. I would just use it as is and turn the switch off when it gets too hot. Also don't run the passenger and driver at the same time. Don't change the fuse, you might melt wires! Thanks for this idea! ![]()
__________________
95 RR LWB , Sergs old rig! 88 RR, have owned it since almost new, still running strong. |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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A.
__________________
95 RR LWB , Sergs old rig! 88 RR, have owned it since almost new, still running strong. |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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__________________
2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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What if you ran the passenger and drivers seat in series? Would that accomplish what we want? The drivers and passenger seat would be controlled by the drivers side switch but the load on the circuit "should" be close to the same as a seat back and cushion. It would be an easy (hah!, haven't I heard that b/f) fix until we get the right resistor figured out. Any thoughts???
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Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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I have not gotten arrount to doing my homework on my seats yet. but I was thinking of that too. That should definitely work and be probably much easier and cheaper (free) then resistors. Only problems is negotiating with the wife about heat or no heat
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__________________
95 RR LWB , Sergs old rig! 88 RR, have owned it since almost new, still running strong. |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NOOnan, GA
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Finally had a chance to run the seats in series and it works great! Put the 20 amp fuse back in and no problems. I think they may even be kicking in and out once to temp. I used a shielded spade connector to create the circuit on the connector going into the passenger seat and then ran wire from the drivers side where I had previously cut and spliced the wires and connected them with the same on the passenger side and put everything back. Took about ten minutes.
__________________
Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! |
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#30 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
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thanks again
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2001 X5 3.0i "dodi" 1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha" 1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld |
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