Help!! 94 LWB won't start!

[ronpopeil7]

Hi everyone… So I have a problem in that my 1994 LWB will not start. It cranks fine, like it wants to turn over, but just won’t go. My mechanic has had it now for quite some time, and they tested fuel pump, injectors, it has spark, they say the ignition switch is fine. They thought it may be the ECU. So I ordered a used, working ECU (from Paul Grant – great to buy from, by the way), and the numbers don’t match (was AMR 2943, got AMR 1423) but in reading and talking to Paul, that doesn’t matter. Anyway, the new ECU is installed, and the Rover fires up and runs rough (like one would expect as the new ECU is learning). They then shut the truck off, and now it won’t start again, just does the cranking thing. Can anyone give me some more suggestions on what might be wrong, I appreciate any ideas. Thanks,


Chris

[ronpopeil7]

actually, they didnt shut the rover off. After they installed the new ECU it ran rough for 3 minutes and then died, and they werent able to get it started again. Doh. I am off to talk to the mechanic tonight.

[olmectech]

There's more than 15 pieces to that puzzle.

It looks like you've tested 4 of them, but you have more to go. You need to download the workshop manual for RRC, and test the rest of the fuel injection system. Start with the cheapest and easiest parts first. They need to test your fuel pressure, and see if it's holding with ignition off.

I would also look at distributor and make sure timing is set correctly and amplifier is good on side of distributor. Bad coil and wires can also give no start symptoms.

I hope this helps.

[DevynsDad]

I second the "check your coil and wires." My truck was running rough and cutting out out on me. Then it wouldn't start, wouldn't start, wouldn't start, then crank right up and run fine. On and on this went until I finally replaced the fuel pump, and it started and ran fine... until the next morning, when it wouldn't start.

It was a bad coil the whole time. By the time I replaced my fuel pump I could crank it until the battery died but it wouldn't catch.

[bartell]

Originally Posted by ronpopeil7

Can anyone give me some more suggestions on what might be wrong, I appreciate any ideas. Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris,

Diagnosis is a process of elimination.

You need three things for an engine to start (and one of them you can't do much about). Fuel, air and a properly timed spark.

Start with fuel. Have them do a pressure test. They can use the fuel temperature sensor socket on the fuel rail if they want to install the pressure gauge fast. Then they will have to bypass the protective feature in the AFM ( by jumping in power to the fuel pump directly with a spare battery.

Now, what is the reading (if any) they get? If it is around 36 lbs (cold engine) you're ok though there is still a chance (which we can deal with later) that one bank of injectors is earthed (aka grounded) and your engine is flooding. (That could explain why the new ECU worked. You gave the engine enough time to dry out while you waited for the other unit to arrive. It then caught and quickly flooded itself again.)

But if you have fuel pressure, remove the gauge and let's move onto spark. Do you have one? This can be tested by removing a plug and holding the end on the block..a exhaust bolt will do. Ideally, they should be tested with an oscilliscope. I have the correct readings if you have an oscilliscope handy.

The stock V8 distributors are lousy...putting out a very weak spark at best. They will work, but everything must be in order. They rust underneath the inner plastic cover, and that should be cleaned. The cap should be examined and the rotor changed.

If you have fuel and a spark, we can test the integrity of your injectors and think about whether your timing is askew.

James

[roverandom]

Take it to a Mechanic that knows what he/she is doing! Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out without resorting to parts swapping or having the owner need to ask for help over the Internet, If it was a mechanic at my shop I would die of embarrassment!
Why-oh-why do these guys do two or three "tests" and then assume the ECU is to blame? I bet the "mechanic" or should I say "numbnuts" felt really stupid when your Rover quit again after he talked you into buying a replacement ECU, and so he should.
Half the requests for aid on this forum are down shitty mechanics trying to hide there own incompetence and rip off Land Rover owners.
If you pay for a mechanic to fix your vehicle then that is what you should get.........your vehicle fixed!