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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
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I'm convinced that an issue I'm having is either related to the Mass Air Flow or the Throttle Position sensor, I've looked around but, I can't find a step by step instruction on how to clean them, with pictures.
Why with pictures? I'm an idiot, and I don't know what I'm doing - does anyone know of any out there, or would they be willing to snap a few pictures for me? Your help would be GREATLY appreciated! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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at some point it will break . . . and I will ATTEMPT to fix it!!
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Taos, NM
Posts: 31
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What are your symptoms?? Has a Check Engine Light come on??? I've never had to "clean" a MAF on any vehicle, all of my problems usually required replacing it.
More details would help
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1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 717/2000Arias Pistons/Eagle Rods, '94 Talon Tranny -Fun as hell, always broken 1986 Chevy K20 AKA White Lightning 350, 4 Speed, 3" Lift, 32" Maxxis Buckshot Mudders-Never broken, always out of gas 1995 Range Rover CountyLWB AKA Darth Vader,K&N air filter, coil spring conversion, Maxxis Bighorn Mudders -The ULTIMATE TAOS VEHICLE
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 706
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What year Rover? Earlier ones had adjustable TPS. Have not heard of cleaning them though.
Sorry no pics, but it's a really good write up on cleaning the MAF. rangie.com - The Range Rover Knowledge Base - by Matthew Reeve - Sponsored by bigyellowdesign Some info on adjusting / checking both TPS & MAF RPi Engineering - V8 Engines
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Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey" |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
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1993 SWB 3.9L. The check engine and service engine light came on basically together. While accelerating occasionally the.. well.. acceleration will cut out instantly, its the equivalent of sliding your foot off the side of the pedal so that you instantly are not gaining any speed, as a matter of fact you start decelerating, not violently or anything, it's literally the exact same as if you slide your foot off the side of the accelerator, if you push more or release a little bit, it will kick back up to wherever you are supposed to be. I haven't had a chance to check the codes yet but, from everything I've read, I've got a sneaking suspicion it's one of those two things.
Unless the fact the exhaust pipe has cracked AFTER the catlytic converter could be causing it, but I doubt it as I just cracked it 2 days ago and it had this symptom prior to me doing that. Last edited by Madison : 05-22-2008 at 05:33 PM. Reason: Typo - 1993 not 1992 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
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Just checked the fault indicator, code 17. Guess I need a new TPS! Anyone know a good place to buy from, and any instructions online for how to replace it? I don't have a shop manual!
![]() Code 17 Throttle potentiometer Usually indicates a bad throttle position sensor. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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RRC Owner in training
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Check Atlantic British, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Etc for the part...Make sure you order the TPS with the correct connector (round or rectangular)
Replacement is easy...2 screws and an electrical plug on the other end...5 min job if you are slow.
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...But we in it shall be rememberèd; We few, we happy few, we band of brothers; For he to-day that sheds his blood with me Shall be my brother... 1994 RRC LWB, 82k miles, 4.2, Cornish Cream/Lightstone Interior, spring converted. |
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