HELP No Spark!!!

[RageRover]

I dunno what happened, and whatever happened I need to get it fixed ASAP!!

I was driving around last night, and all of a sudden she started missfiring like no other, and when I lighty or sometimes give it some gas, she dies down, and doesn't accelerate. Then as soon as I turn down my street, I give it little gas, and then it dies.

I push her into the driveway, and start looking at the basics. She gets fuel, I can smell it. Gets plenty of air. I looked at the spark plugs, they look fine, but she doesn't spark at all when I crank her, with the fuel injectors' fuse pulled and the spark plug grounded outside to see if it sparks. It doesn't spark.

This really has me baffled. The cap and rotor are brand new, and show no signs of wear, nothing.

Whatelse is there? The pick-up coil? Could that thing have gone bad last night? The plug wires are new, brand new. The coil is brand new.

I need help ASAP, this truck needs to run before I head out to Colorado!!

[OkieRover]

Check your fuses. I had the same issue and it was a fuse.

[RageRover]

I had checked the fuses, for the ignition circtuits and for the ignition coil....all are good.

Could be the amplifier module on the side of the disty? This thing has a three wire connection, and looks to have two wires, running inside the disty to the pick-up coil. How do I test something like this?

I am getting nervous and anxious, I gotta get the truck running ASAP.

[RageRover]

UPDATE:

I just tested the pick-up coil in the disty, and it is within spec, which is 2K-5K ohms, and mine read 3.8K ohms.

The amplifier, that I had to pull off the disty to get that reading above, had a reading of 16.88K ohms, and I have no idea if the amplifier/ignition module, what ever it is (it says ignition module on the back of it) is with in spec, or if there is even a spec. I does have continuity running through it, so it still works, I think.

What is next? I am goin' crazy over this, and it being so close to MRM too.

[RageRover]

Ok, I found a flow chart in the RAVE manual about testing various parts of the Lucas Disty, and I followed it step by step, and then noticed my coil was not arcing like it should when you take the lead off the disty for the coil, and put it next to the intake to arc, and nothing.

I went and got my stock coil (thank god I kept around), and hooked it on there, and watch the sparks fly!

I hooked everything back up and cranked her over, and she ran like no tomorrow!!

Tomorrow, or later tonight, I will talk to Accel, to have them send me another coil or something, cause I have heard cases of people buying new, bad coils. And I fell victim to that situation.

[John C]

There is an ignition amplifier relocation kit which you can get from AB. The stock ign amp gets warm and fails. Maybe yours is messing up your coil.

[RageRover]

That's a possibility, I will look into the amp. re-location kit from AB, might come in handy, cause over the last few days, OMG did it get hot and humid, real shitty conditions, even worse than the desert.

Thanks for the heads up!

EDIT: WOW, that relocation kit is well....$259.95 expensive! I bet it would be cool to have, but it is just a hell of a ways expensive right now.

[Badger1]

Good to hear it's running alright again(knock on wood).


Enjoy your trip.

[hamrendan]

Its a love / hate relationship.. One day its running great the next its like trying to figure out what else has gone wrong.. You would think that with the engines and trannys running hundreds of thousands of miles, that the rest of the electronics, and other systems could be half as reliable.. I replaced EVERY part of the ignition system on my 93 rr.. except the amp module..then when I finally replaced it BP told me that I needed a $45 dollar connector.. Yea 2 wires and 2 connectors.. I guess thats the price for Genuine LR.. anyway $175 later including shipping the rovski is fixed... of course that didn't take into account new wires plugs cap rotor and coil.. Now I have spares i guess...

But the point I am making is that Rovers need to be more reliable.. Take for instance the Mark 3 Range Rovers designed by BMW.. the Front differential goes out every 20K miles due to a design flaw.. you would think that an $80k dollar car would at least have differentials that would go 100K.. not the case.. and Ford is not going to do a damn thing about it... thier reasoning is that most people lease them up front ( rich folks ) then they put the 20K on it then the second tier people will buy them.. if it breaks under warrantee they will replace it once.. then the second owners will sell it to the 3rd tier people who want the car for a status symbol, but are not as rich , and when it goes out again they are stuck with a $4k repair.,,, Nice Ford! you guys are a buch of IDIOTS... you could just make up a bunch of front drive shafts with dual universal joints on each end to fix the problem, but I guess spending money to save your reputation is not worth it to you... It would be worth it ... Hey its BMW's design flaw...you could do the right thing... you won't.. I guess you dont need good press after the Firestone fiasco...

My 2

[daway]

Originally Posted by hamrendan

Its a love / hate relationship.. One day its running great the next its like trying to figure out what else has gone wrong.. You would think that with the engines and trannys running hundreds of thousands of miles, that the rest of the electronics, and other systems could be half as reliable.. I replaced EVERY part of the ignition system on my 93 rr.. except the amp module..then when I finally replaced it BP told me that I needed a $45 dollar connector.. Yea 2 wires and 2 connectors.. I guess thats the price for Genuine LR.. anyway $175 later including shipping the rovski is fixed... of course that didn't take into account new wires plugs cap rotor and coil.. Now I have spares i guess...

But the point I am making is that Rovers need to be more reliable.. Take for instance the Mark 3 Range Rovers designed by BMW.. the Front differential goes out every 20K miles due to a design flaw.. you would think that an $80k dollar car would at least have differentials that would go 100K.. not the case.. and Ford is not going to do a damn thing about it... thier reasoning is that most people lease them up front ( rich folks ) then they put the 20K on it then the second tier people will buy them.. if it breaks under warrantee they will replace it once.. then the second owners will sell it to the 3rd tier people who want the car for a status symbol, but are not as rich , and when it goes out again they are stuck with a $4k repair.,,, Nice Ford! you guys are a buch of IDIOTS... you could just make up a bunch of front drive shafts with dual universal joints on each end to fix the problem, but I guess spending money to save your reputation is not worth it to you... It would be worth it ... Hey its BMW's design flaw...you could do the right thing... you won't.. I guess you dont need good press after the Firestone fiasco...

My 2

in 05 they changed to Jaguar AJ-V8 engine to replace the BMW M62 V8 in the Range Rover. Pat iam glad everthing is a ok (trip to CO!!!)

[OkieRover]

Originally Posted by John C

There is an ignition amplifier relocation kit which you can get from AB. The stock ign amp gets warm and fails. Maybe yours is messing up your coil.

I had horrible troubles until I relocated mine.

[hamrendan]

Originally Posted by daway

in 05 they changed to Jaguar AJ-V8 engine to replace the BMW M62 V8 in the Range Rover. Pat iam glad everthing is a ok (trip to CO!!!)

Yeah the Jag engine is a pile... no power... and has nothing to do with the front differential problem.... Plus now they have a bunch of electrical issues.. Lucas strikes again ( ok Lucas Like )

Who would buy an 80 thousand dollar car with known electrical issues??

a fraternity brother of mine had a shirt in college it said...

"friends don't let friends drive Fords"