Hesitation off idle

[norville]

HEy folks, I have another anoying problem and your input would be appreciated. I have a slight hesitation when I first take off. It's worse when cold almost wants to stall, but even after it's warmed up. If I come to a full stop I get a slight studder and then it goes. Also I have a miss a t higher speeds and rpms but does it less when warm. I don't seem to have it at idle. I've run a bottle of seafoam through it and I hace some lucas injector cleaner going through this tank along with some 93 octane.

So whaere to next the wires look new and the PO claims they are. Can I use any kinda coil, or is it rover specific(accel ect). I can start pulling plugs and checking them for wear/burn. And I should change the fuel filter. I planned to do all this in the spring. I was hoping I could diagnos it quick and wait till spring for the full tune.

Lastly I'm in the north east. I got a good deal on synthetic 10/30 for suv's . Is it alright to runn this ligh of an oil in the winter. The book ssay's OK but I'd like your opinion. PO claims always use synthetic.


thanks
bob

Side note my two quality head units will not work with the amp/wiring of the rover. The crappy 15w blowplunked is running fine. Must have something to do with the floating ground or the lack of rca outs??? I'll deal with it in the spring.

[LANDY96]

Well, it could be your vacuum advance giving out? Mine just died saturday. I have the same symptoms as yours. I am told this goes out often. It also could be your Idle control valve. Do a search on how to clean the Idle control valve, and follow the intructions. It is easy and quick. An easy way to check the vacuum advance is take the distributor cap off, pull the vacuum line off the plenum, and suck on the hose. If the cam engages inside the distributor, then it is good. Also check to see if your mechanical advance is working. This is a good site. Read all you can. Stick with 93 oct fuel. I see a HUGE difference even if I drop to 89 oct.
http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#rotor

[OkieRover]

^^^x2
Other than the fuel. Mine runs great on 87 down here in Oklahoma.

[LANDY96]

Originally Posted by OkieRover

^^^x2
Other than the fuel. Mine runs great on 87 down here in Oklahoma.

You lucky dog!! I don't know why, but mine runs like crap with less than 93oct. I also get about 3mpg difference.

[norville]

Well the vac adv is busted now. It was stuck then I got it to move with a crunchy sort of noise. Now it's busted good. thanks ?? I assume you can't just get another vac adv what do used distributor's go for??


thanks

bob

Oh, I just plugged it runs the same.

[Greg M]

Originally Posted by norville

Well the vac adv is busted now. It was stuck then I got it to move with a crunchy sort of noise. Now it's busted good. thanks ?? I assume you can't just get another vac adv what do used distributor's go for??.

You assume wrong. Check the usual places like rovers north, british pacific, etc. Their about a $100 bucks or more.

[LANDY96]

Just bought one from roverparts.com $85.00. Sounds like the mechanical advance might be stuck too. With a new VA it will run SO much better!!! I think mine was stuck too, I had mud on the engine, washed it down, then accidently got water under cap. Dried the water off, and when I did that I pulled the vacuum line off. I think that is when my advance snapped back....GRRR! I know how you feel!!!!! Total delivery in 2 days was $94.00. BTW if you ever want a new distributor, buy one from Rovers Down South. They mostly have Defender and Series parts, but some crossover like the distributor. I called he doesn't have just the VA!

[norville]

I'm getting some parts off a guy thats parting a rover. Should I just get new one or is used OK if it's in working order?? Price??? The more I drive the more I see neglected and sitting. I nearly got stranded over a wire that connects to coil. Wouldn't start. corroded wires. I should have known when my driving light came on with hi beams??? Then I notice aftermarket relay is green and furry.

I wish it was spring!

New / used???

bob

[LANDY96]

NEW! Don't mess with used on a part like that. It is a time bomb! I know it sucks to pay so much, but in the long run it's worth it. Mine only has 68k, and I have had quite a few little issues that make me mad. But when it runs smooth, there isn't much left on the road I would rather drive!

[norville]

do I have 2 pin or a 3pin??

bob

[LANDY96]

Found out today, it don't matter. That is for a plug, not for the VA. That is what the guy said at roverparts.com!

[p76rangie]

Have you actually removed it to test it. The vacuum advance only makes a difference at cruise. Once you remove it from the distributor, but a small bit of hose on it and such until the shaft has moved all the way in. If it moves it passes the first test. Once you have sucked it all the way in, put your tongue over the hole in the hose to stop any air going back in. If the shaft stays in it passes the second test and is fine. If you want to buy second hand, just do the same tests.

Based on your running and on higher octane full I would say that your advance is stuck on. Have you checked your timing with a timing light. But if the vacum advance was not seized on, I would say the issue is with your mechanical advance and not the vacuum.

[norville]

It's definetly gone. first test failed. I sucked on it and had zero movement but it had resistance. Second test I physically moved rod --- crunch, creak, now it moves but, holds no vacuum. This may or may not have been the original problem but it was/ is broke.

I didn't check the timing what is it supposed to be set at? and where is the mark?

thanks
bob

[p76rangie]

The timing markings are on the front timing cover to the top left of the bottom pulley. The timing mark is on the bottom pulley. It is probably dirty and painted and not easy to see. So once you find it you should put a dab of liquid paper or white paint on it so you can see it easily when doing the timing. Not sure what the exact timing is on your motor, but most likely around the 4 degrees BTDC. I would have a gues and say that yours was stuck up around 10 Plus BTDC. But it could have been the vacuum adance seaized, so that it for a run now that you have taken it off to see how it works.

The easy way to check your mechanical advance is to give the motor a rev why you have the timing light on it. You show see the timing noticeably advance as you give it a rev. It won't do any harm running the car without the vacuum advance on for a little while. Just make sure you put a plug in the hose that went to the vacuum advance.

[TerryS]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

Have you actually removed it to test it. The vacuum advance only makes a difference at cruise.
.

Not so. The vacuum advance only operates on the initial opening of the throttle plate on EFI engines, then the mechanical advance takes over.

The method to check the mechanical advance is to remove the distributor cap, rotate the rotor, in the running direction and let go, an it should move back to the rest position. There whould be about 35 degrees of movement of the rotor. Facing the engine, the timing pointer and marks on the fron pulley are at about 2 oclock. Timing at idle should be 8 degrees BTDC.