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Old 07-20-2006, 07:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How hot is too hot?

So now that i've done away with my electric temp guage, I was curious to know what the normal operating temps are, and how hot is too hot?
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Old 07-20-2006, 07:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Anything above 210F you should be concerned. I think normal operating temp, is like 200-210 in that range, anything really above that, things won't turn out great.
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I start to get worried if I get over 210 too. Since you have an early rangie switch over to a 7lb radiator cap instead of the factory one. You can buy them anywhere. I would rather the cap blow early. I run a 160 thermostat in my trail toy and it runs about 180-190 when it is hot out. However, I would stick with the factory thermostat unless you are having problems. Gordo
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Old 07-20-2006, 09:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thats hot !
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Old 07-20-2006, 10:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do not drop the pressure in your cap as the motor will boil ealier. For example, the boiling point of water is 100C (212F), but due to it being under pressure and the coolant, the boiling point should 120C (248F) in your car.

I have a 84C (fully open) thermostat and the car will usually run at 80C (176F). Your car should be alright up to 210F, you start getting a little concerned at 230F and pull over and let it cool down at 245F.

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Old 07-20-2006, 10:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p76rangie
Do not drop the pressure in your cap as the motor will boil ealier. For example, the boiling point of water is 100C (212F), but due to it being under pressure and the coolant, the boiling point should 120C (248F) in your car.

I have a 84C (fully open) thermostat and the car will usually run at 80C (176F). Your car should be alright up to 210F, you start getting a little concerned at 230F and pull over and let it cool down at 245F.

Ian
I agree...

Believe me when I say, it WILL scare the shit out of ya when that needle starts to creap above normal range which for me is right in the middle between H and C. Although it was due to an air pocket stuck in the block, and bad coolant that lost it's corrosion protection and boil over protection.

And who really wants to run the heater all the time on a hot day cause the engine overheated?
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"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 07-21-2006, 12:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p76rangie
Do not drop the pressure in your cap as the motor will boil ealier. For example, the boiling point of water is 100C (212F), but due to it being under pressure and the coolant, the boiling point should 120C (248F) in your car.

I have a 84C (fully open) thermostat and the car will usually run at 80C (176F). Your car should be alright up to 210F, you start getting a little concerned at 230F and pull over and let it cool down at 245F.

Ian
Thanks Ian. You're right about the cap. My engine runs right at 180F and will creep to 190F -195F when running the AC idling in traffic, even with it being 100F here. Of course I had the radiator serviced while i had the engine out, so I didn't expect it to run hot, but i was just curious as to when to pull over if for some strange reason something went wrong. Thanks to everyone.
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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when i got my a/c recharged i was idling for about 15 or 20 minutes with the a/c on max and right when i shut the engine off the coolant started spraying out of the tank from the cap, when it cooled off enough 4 me 2 touch it i unscrewed the cap and the coolant was boiling! im not sure if my head gaskets are causes this pressure/over heating or if it is my radiator...or..both...?
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ryan, without know alot more, I won't guess at what the cause is, but keep in mind, ALOT of heat is being blown off the AC condensor, and guess where it goes next....................Through the radiator. The more you ask the AC system to cool, the more heat it needs to extract.
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Old 07-21-2006, 06:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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and when your sitting still, theres no air flowing thru the radiator so its gonna get alot hotter with the A/C Running
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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so u think my radiator could possibly be seized or would this be because of one of my condensor fans being slow?
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If it dosen't usualy overheat I would say you prob overheated it from :

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanc8514
when i got my a/c recharged i was idling for about 15 or 20 minutes with the a/c on max
When your sitting still, theres no air flowing thru the radiator so its gonna get alot hotter with the A/C Running

Check all of your hoses and replace if dry rotted or cracked , also check between your radiator and tranny cooler and make theres not a bunch of leaves or mud in there.
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had to replace my front condensor fans cause they did not turn at all, even with a soild 12 volts going to them. I put in a slightly bigger replacement condensor fan and it worked, and pulled some decent CFMs through the radiator and condensor; I could feel air being pulled through the grill, and when I put my and in the fan shroud for the engine driven fan (with engine off, and ignition on+A/C on) air was being pushed through the radiator, like it should.

Also, even with no A/C on, then condensor fans, are to come on when the temp. is getting a little warm at idle. Mine does this on hot days, and muggy nights. Plus thanks to Terry's rig I made to burp the system of air, I never overheated, even when towing a 4000 lb. Heep, on a dolly, and A/C running.

Again thanks Terry!
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"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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