Hub End Float - Land Rovers Only

Greg M · 05-10-2007, 07:32 PM

I'm finishing up a hub seal replacement and have a question about the end float. This is what the manual reads:

Fit the hub inner nut and using wrench 606435
tighten the adjusting nut while slowly
revolving the hub until all end-float is removed
then back-off the nut approximately half a turn
and retighten the nut to 13-15 in lb which will
automatically allow for compression of the
rubber on the new seal track spacer giving the
required hub end-float of 0.013 to 0.10 mm
(0.0005 to 0.004 in ).

I am having one hellava time finding a 2 1/16 socket. Only one i can find in stock is $50.00 plus i would need a 1/2 adapter. I really don't want to pay this. I removed it with a larger adjustable wrench, but of course its hard to get a torque wrench on that. So, how darn important is the 13 -15 lbs? 15lbs isn't too much past hand tight. Use my best guesstimate or buy the socket?

Opinions?

Paul Grant · 05-10-2007, 08:24 PM

Greg,
Here's what you need.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...ped-steel.aspx

As far as how tight to go, you're right, it's a little tighter than hand tight. You can do it without the hub nut tool but if you're planning on owning Rovers for the long haul the tool is well worth the purchase price.
Cheers,
Paul

p76rangie · 05-11-2007, 03:17 AM

Basically do the inner nut up tight and then back it off until you can feel a very slight movement when rocking the wheel (hub). Then put on the lock washer on and tighten up the outer nut tight. After tightening the out nut you should feel no movement when rocking the wheel in and out. No need to worry about torque settings, etc.

KevinNY · 05-11-2007, 05:58 AM

X2

You want to tighten the first night nice and tight to be sure that the seal is all the way seated, if not you will get a false reading and end up with a loose hub. Back off an tighten with just your hands on the stamped socket, when your greasy sweaty hands slip on the socket is perfect.

series1rangie · 05-11-2007, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinNY

X2

You want to tighten the first night nice and tight to be sure that the seal is all the way seated, if not you will get a false reading and end up with a loose hub. Back off an tighten with just your hands on the stamped socket, when your greasy sweaty hands slip on the socket is perfect.

X3

Make sure you seat the seal well, after my test drive I had to retighten both of mine, as there was too much float.

p76rangie · 05-11-2007, 04:27 PM

Just make sure that you have put the seal into the hub to the correct depth, otherwise it will have the end taken off and you will be repeating the process in a few months.

05-10-2007, 07:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Greg M Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Boise ID Posts: 219 Gallery: 0	Hub End Float I'm finishing up a hub seal replacement and have a question about the end float. This is what the manual reads: Fit the hub inner nut and using wrench 606435 tighten the adjusting nut while slowly revolving the hub until all end-float is removed then back-off the nut approximately half a turn and retighten the nut to 13-15 in lb which will automatically allow for compression of the rubber on the new seal track spacer giving the required hub end-float of 0.013 to 0.10 mm (0.0005 to 0.004 in ). I am having one hellava time finding a 2 1/16 socket. Only one i can find in stock is $50.00 plus i would need a 1/2 adapter. I really don't want to pay this. I removed it with a larger adjustable wrench, but of course its hard to get a torque wrench on that. So, how darn important is the 13 -15 lbs? 15lbs isn't too much past hand tight. Use my best guesstimate or buy the socket? Opinions? __________________ Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights.

05-11-2007, 05:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
KevinNY Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Guilderland, NY Posts: 788 Gallery: 0	X2 You want to tighten the first night nice and tight to be sure that the seal is all the way seated, if not you will get a false reading and end up with a loose hub. Back off an tighten with just your hands on the stamped socket, when your greasy sweaty hands slip on the socket is perfect. __________________ "The Goat",1973 Series III coil conversion, Daihatsu 2.8 Td, power steering, dual ARBs Etc. '91 RRC, bone stock

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05-10-2007, 08:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
Paul Grant Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT Posts: 941 Gallery: 0	Greg, Here's what you need. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...ped-steel.aspx As far as how tight to go, you're right, it's a little tighter than hand tight. You can do it without the hub nut tool but if you're planning on owning Rovers for the long haul the tool is well worth the purchase price. Cheers, Paul

05-11-2007, 03:17 AM	#3 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,140 Gallery: 0	Basically do the inner nut up tight and then back it off until you can feel a very slight movement when rocking the wheel (hub). Then put on the lock washer on and tighten up the outer nut tight. After tightening the out nut you should feel no movement when rocking the wheel in and out. No need to worry about torque settings, etc.

05-11-2007, 04:27 PM	#6 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,140 Gallery: 0	Just make sure that you have put the seal into the hub to the correct depth, otherwise it will have the end taken off and you will be repeating the process in a few months.

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