O.K. so week before last my 90 classic wouldnt start. Replaced the rotor arm and distributor cap and she fired right up. Today drove her to work, went out to go to lunch and no spark at the plugs. Had bought the GM IAM to relocate it but had not got around to it yet. Got everything together and installed it according to what I had found on this forum. Now i am getting no spark from my coil. Can anyone give me an idiots guide as to which wires go where from the module to the coil and the module to the pick up in the distributor. Would be really nice to drive her home tomorrow. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Are you the person I was helping via...email? Did you get the pictures I sent?
IAM & COIL:
The 2 blue wires on the right side of the IAM come from the original plug on the distributor...essentially they are just extensions. They will only work one way so try reversing the wires on the IAM posts.
DISTRIBUTOR:
Did you keep track of the wires that were originally attached to the coil positive and negative posts?
This is directly from the Solihull Societys GM IAM Upgrade page (Solihull Society - Denver, Colorado » Blog Archive » Tech: Chevy Ignition Module Install: ) "The connections are simple. The W and G terminals go to the pickup in the distributor. W is supposed to be the positive lead and G the negative. I have no idea which is which, but it shouldn’t matter much as the pickup will create both a positive and negative pulse. get it wrong and your timing might be off by a couple degrees at most. C goes to the negative side of the coil and B to the Positive."
You have to pull the wires that were going from the coil to the IAM out of the wire loom...one of them (positive wire I think) has a resistor in it...that needs to stay if you are using an OEM style coil.
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So the white and white and black wire originally connected to the IAM i cant just use those from the distributor to the new IAM? I have those going to W and G. B and C i used new wires to connect to the - and + sides of the coil. Is this wrong or should i use new wires from the distributor to the new IAM?
So the white and white and black wire originally connected to the IAM i cant just use those from the distributor to the new IAM? No, Those need to be used on the NEW IAM...they are from the coil.
I have those going to W and G. That's WRONG. You need to make new wire extensions from the dist. to the IAM.
B and C i used new wires to connect to the - and + sides of the coil. Dig those original wires out of the loom that passes by the alternator on its way to the distributor. One of them them has a resistor on it.
Is this wrong or should i use new wires from the distributor to the new IAM? Yes, new wires from dist. to IAM. Original IAM/Coil wires need to be used in same capacity to new IAM.
Don't worry you'll get there.
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So here is my epic fail of the day. Before attempting to rewire my IAM to Bulldogsix's specifications I took the distributor cap off and broke of the metal piece from my rotor arm. In a quick fix attempt, I epoxied it back on in the rivit hole and let it get good and hard. I rewired IAM put everything back together turned the key and she fired right up. Turned it off and stuffed wires back in wire loom to get it all pretty, turned the key again and she fired right up. She ran for a minute and died. Took cap off and the metal is loose on the rotor arm. So my new rotor arm will be in at 10:30 tomorrow morning so my rover has to sit here in the parking lot again overnight. Thanks for all your help on this matter Bulldog, I guess I will see tomorrow if everything is right.
Did you use a fairly hefty piece of aluminum for your heat sink?...I ended up using a 6"w x 8"L x 1/2" thick piece and have had no problems so far. You'll know if your heat sink isn't big enough if you get an intermittent miss after about 10-15 minutes of driving...that means the new IAM is getting too hot. I paid $10 for a 6"x17" piece of 1/2" aluminum...so no worries, it's a cheap fix!
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I actually pulled a 6" long 3" wide 2 1/2" thick heat sink from a blown main power board from a hospital laboratory centrifuge. Thats what i do as a Biomed, i pilfer random items from the broke stuff i fix. Just another hobby. Yea i will let you know how everything is after i get my new rotor tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help.
I actually pulled a 6" long 3" wide 2 1/2" thick heat sink from a blown main power board from a hospital laboratory centrifuge. Thats what i do as a Biomed, i pilfer random items from the broke stuff i fix. Just another hobby. Yea i will let you know how everything is after i get my new rotor tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help.
well, I bet the heatsink isn't the problem.
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Mason
'00 DII, $G Front Bumper, Hella 4000s w/HIDs, TW Front DS, "Custom" Exhaust work
Well I installed the new rotor arm turned the key and she fired right up. Idelling at just over 1000RPM, ran for about 30 seconds then RPM's dropped by about 200-300, ran like that for about 8 seconds, then dropped another 200-300, ran like that for about 8 seconds then dropped all the way out and died. I can keep giving it gas little by little and it will jump back up to 1000. Does this sound like a wiring problem to the IAM and Coil?
Problem Solved! My distributor cap was off canter by about an 1/8 of an inch. removed and rearranged wiring from yesterday, cap sat down perfect, she fired up and away i went. Again thanks for your help...
Problem Solved! My distributor cap was off canter by about an 1/8 of an inch. removed and rearranged wiring from yesterday, cap sat down perfect, she fired up and away i went. Again thanks for your help...
That's great! Glad I was able to help.
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IAM help!!
Glad I was able to help.
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