Insulation - Land Rovers Only

AfroRover · 06-27-2006, 04:49 AM

At some point a PO re-carpeted my RRC, problem is that all the insulation (floor and bulkhead) got stripped out and was not replaced. The heat from the exhaust is making the floor quite toasty and although it is nice now that it is winter, in summer it is going to be unbearable. Is there anything you guys can recommend that would be a good replacement insulation?

Disco Mike · 06-27-2006, 11:13 AM

There are auto heat pad insulations made by aftermarket groups, I haven't check but I bet you could do a little research on the web and find some good material you could use.
Mike

RageRover · 06-27-2006, 05:02 PM

I think Dynomat might have something, not sure, they make insulation to dampen sounds from the engine and wind roar across panels, not sure about heat padding. Check them out, they might have something.

AfroRover · 06-28-2006, 12:12 AM

Thanks for the Dynomat tip, saw something like that being advertised
locally, makes sense that if it is thick enought to dampen sound it should
also block radiated heat. Now I just have to remember where I saw it ....

p76rangie · 06-28-2006, 12:50 AM

You can put a heat sheild between the exhaust and the floor. It is only a piece of metal that is positioned about 10mm from the floor. It takes and holds the heat rather than the floor.

AfroRover · 06-28-2006, 06:00 AM

Think I'm sorted now, have found local mnfr called Acoustex that make sound insulation for the auto trade and they in turn linked me with a distributor called Bondstick. They can supply a combination audio/thermal insulation (not cheap at USD85.00/metre @ 1.6m wide) that they say will even mute my howling transfer case.

The metal plate idea is also a good one, want to replace current exhaust in near future with stainless ''Powerflo" system and can get it done at the same time.

Thanx again!

RageRover · 06-28-2006, 03:55 PM

Glad to hear you got things sorted out. Yeah Ian was right on the metal sheild thing, never thought of that, cause my floor gets a little warm, not too much, and it is the dead of summer up here in the states, so if I'm wearing sandals, yeah, I can feel the heat. But I do have some peices of aluminum laying around, never used, I can cut into sections and install them.

p76rangie · 06-28-2006, 05:00 PM

Above your muffler on under your floor you should find a heat sheild fitted at the factory. This will give you the idea of what you have to make. I still have my insulation, but I found alot of heat still coming up through the floor under the driver's (in USA case Passenger's) feet. I fitted a heat shield and it cooled down significantly.

Ian

06-27-2006, 04:49 AM	#1 (permalink)
AfroRover Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cape Town, South Africa Posts: 15 Gallery: 0	Insulation At some point a PO re-carpeted my RRC, problem is that all the insulation (floor and bulkhead) got stripped out and was not replaced. The heat from the exhaust is making the floor quite toasty and although it is nice now that it is winter, in summer it is going to be unbearable. Is there anything you guys can recommend that would be a good replacement insulation? __________________ The holes in the floor are to drain the water leaking in through the windows right? 1998 VW Golf 2.8 VR6 (Sold) 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.5 V6 GLS (Sold) 2001 P38 4.6 V8 HSE (Sold) 2006 Renault Megane 2.0T Sport 1980 RRC

06-27-2006, 05:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	I think Dynomat might have something, not sure, they make insulation to dampen sounds from the engine and wind roar across panels, not sure about heat padding. Check them out, they might have something. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

06-28-2006, 12:12 AM	#4 (permalink)
AfroRover Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cape Town, South Africa Posts: 15 Gallery: 0	Thanks for the Dynomat tip, saw something like that being advertised locally, makes sense that if it is thick enought to dampen sound it should also block radiated heat. Now I just have to remember where I saw it .... __________________ The holes in the floor are to drain the water leaking in through the windows right? 1998 VW Golf 2.8 VR6 (Sold) 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.5 V6 GLS (Sold) 2001 P38 4.6 V8 HSE (Sold) 2006 Renault Megane 2.0T Sport 1980 RRC

06-28-2006, 03:55 PM	#7 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	Glad to hear you got things sorted out. Yeah Ian was right on the metal sheild thing, never thought of that, cause my floor gets a little warm, not too much, and it is the dead of summer up here in the states, so if I'm wearing sandals, yeah, I can feel the heat. But I do have some peices of aluminum laying around, never used, I can cut into sections and install them. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

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06-27-2006, 11:13 AM	#2 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,683 Gallery: 0	There are auto heat pad insulations made by aftermarket groups, I haven't check but I bet you could do a little research on the web and find some good material you could use. Mike

06-28-2006, 12:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,126 Gallery: 0	You can put a heat sheild between the exhaust and the floor. It is only a piece of metal that is positioned about 10mm from the floor. It takes and holds the heat rather than the floor.

06-28-2006, 06:00 AM	#6 (permalink)
AfroRover Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cape Town, South Africa Posts: 15 Gallery: 0	Think I'm sorted now, have found local mnfr called Acoustex that make sound insulation for the auto trade and they in turn linked me with a distributor called Bondstick. They can supply a combination audio/thermal insulation (not cheap at USD85.00/metre @ 1.6m wide) that they say will even mute my howling transfer case. The metal plate idea is also a good one, want to replace current exhaust in near future with stainless ''Powerflo" system and can get it done at the same time. Thanx again!

06-28-2006, 05:00 PM	#8 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,126 Gallery: 0	Above your muffler on under your floor you should find a heat sheild fitted at the factory. This will give you the idea of what you have to make. I still have my insulation, but I found alot of heat still coming up through the floor under the driver's (in USA case Passenger's) feet. I fitted a heat shield and it cooled down significantly. Ian

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