just lifted RRC LWB 3" and...

[sodirty]

over the weekend i installed 2" spacers all the way around and while I was under there I realized I have medium duty OME's which ended up giving me 3" total. Ive got nasty vibrations up front when i accelerate or turn. Im guessing its the U-joints? What is the cheapest wisest way to go about rectifying my problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

[drg]

Originally Posted by sodirty

over the weekend i installed 2" spacers all the way around and while I was under there I realized I have medium duty OME's which ended up giving me 3" total. Ive got nasty vibrations up front when i accelerate or turn. Im guessing its the U-joints? What is the cheapest wisest way to go about rectifying my problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

You need a double-cardan front driveshaft. Lifting that far, the front driveshaft is at just too much of an angle for the u-joints to work smoothly. You pretty much need to replace it, because it's under stress now and will fail. The DC joint can handle double the angle of the standard U-joint.

Great Basin Rovers has them for $400. It's a bolt-on deal, easy to swap.

Other suppliers may have them cheaper.

You may have a separate problem, which is that having lifted it that far, the front pinions are at a different castor angle relative to the ground. You may have some substantial tendency to wander on the highway. There are a few solutions to this. The only inexpensive one is to put in offset radius arm bushings, but that binds up the front end and makes it lose flex (and you've already lost some during the lift). If you put a TrueTrac in the front, it may reduce the problem enough that you can deal with it, but differential upgrades are expensive. You can use offset radius arms, but those too are expensive.

[WCURoverD90]

Originally Posted by sodirty

over the weekend i installed 2" spacers all the way around and while I was under there I realized I have medium duty OME's which ended up giving me 3" total. Ive got nasty vibrations up front when i accelerate or turn. Im guessing its the U-joints? What is the cheapest wisest way to go about rectifying my problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

You have pictures......

[sodirty]

no but ill post pics tomorrow.

[WCURoverD90]

Cool deal....

[p76rangie]

Welcome to the issues with spring lifts compared to body lifts. Watch double carden shafts if you use the car off road. They tend not to last long and can do a lot of damage when they let go.

Ian

[keptin]

IMO best way to go for rovers is a Tom Woods shaft.....double cardan for front....may be able to get a single cardan for the rear......anything to get those rotoflexes out.

http://www.4xshaft.com/

Ian, what about something like this? http://www.4xshaft.com/bigelow.html

How does a double cardan shaft not last as long?

[sven]

FWIW, I also have a 3" lift on a LWB. And I agree with DRG...you'll NEED a DC front shaft and pinion correcting radius arms. Time to spend more $$

Also, I had to rebuild my Tom Woods DC shaft after 3 years. Costed me about $60 in parts.

[p76rangie]

The best advice is to take the spacers back out. That is the cheapest way to fix your problem.

Ian

[gordo]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

The best advice is to take the spacers back out. That is the cheapest way to fix your problem.

Ian

Amen, try onlinemetals.com and get 4 1" spacers (cut to order 4" aluminum rod) for 25 bucks. They should give you a bit more lift and might elimnate the vibs. Gordo