Just a quickie... - Land Rovers Only

Gillah11 · 06-06-2006, 06:43 PM

Hey everyone...

Just a quick question.

Any tricks or talents I should have up my sleeve in changing the oil pan gasket? I would think it's pretty straight forward, but about the time I think that....

Well.... you know.

If not, great, but if any of you have replaced yours and can offer advice, or at least a good story, I'd appreciate your time!

Greg M · 06-06-2006, 07:56 PM

Its very straight forward. Undo the wires for the oil level sensor. Buy some gasket sealer (no 2 I think), the black stuff that remains pliable - to hold it in place while you bolt it on.

There is a specific tightening sequence for the bolts.

You'll want to clean the bottom of the pan and the screen for the oil pump pickup tube.

That's it really.

p76rangie · 06-06-2006, 08:00 PM

Make sure you get a paper (cardboard) gasket and not a cork one. The cork ones tend to spread when you tighten up the bolts.

Ian

Paul Grant · 06-06-2006, 08:19 PM

Or you can ditch the gaskets entirely and go with the Right Stuff or black Permatex. I used the Right Stuff on my truck 6K miles ago and the seal has held up well. The key is to get the mating surfaces as clean and dry as possible before applying the sealant.

RageRover · 06-06-2006, 11:46 PM

Plus I notice that Corked gasket material leaks sometimes, so IMHO they should be used mostly for intake accesories like IAC/V, etc..

Rubber ones are ok, as long as you don't tighten the bolts too hard. But using the paper style material and some RTV, works real good, never had a problem with that for oil pans, and valve covers.

sven · 06-07-2006, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Grant

Or you can ditch the gaskets entirely and go with the Right Stuff or black Permatex. I used the Right Stuff on my truck 6K miles ago and the seal has held up well. The key is to get the mating surfaces as clean and dry as possible before applying the sealant.

X2 on the Right Stuff. I think LR even stopped using pan gaskets after 95.

Muddy Oval · 06-07-2006, 07:23 AM

Make sure you take off all the bolts. Sounds like stupid advice, but people try to pry them off without looking to see if all the bolts are out and mess 'em up ALL the time. I'd make a gasket, personally... but whatever floats your boat.

DiscoPilot · 06-07-2006, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

Make sure you take off all the bolts. Sounds like stupid advice, but people try to pry them off without looking to see if all the bolts are out and mess 'em up ALL the time. I'd make a gasket, personally... but whatever floats your boat.

I used the benz black sealant and I will have to pry the damn thing off after using a gasket cutter when I do my rear main, However that thing will never leak form the oilpan again....ever... I love Benz black sealant just don't put it on anything you want to easily get apart any time soon. And for something a little less hardcore I prefer the grey Hondabond, both can be had from their respective dealerships

06-06-2006, 06:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
Gillah11 Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: South Dakota Posts: 32 Gallery: 0	Just a quickie... Hey everyone... Just a quick question. Any tricks or talents I should have up my sleeve in changing the oil pan gasket? I would think it's pretty straight forward, but about the time I think that.... Well.... you know. If not, great, but if any of you have replaced yours and can offer advice, or at least a good story, I'd appreciate your time! __________________ "The trouble with the rat race is that even if you win, you're still a rat." -Lilly Tomlin 1990 RRC SWB

06-06-2006, 07:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
Greg M Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Boise ID Posts: 219 Gallery: 0	Its very straight forward. Undo the wires for the oil level sensor. Buy some gasket sealer (no 2 I think), the black stuff that remains pliable - to hold it in place while you bolt it on. There is a specific tightening sequence for the bolts. You'll want to clean the bottom of the pan and the screen for the oil pump pickup tube. That's it really. __________________ Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights.

06-06-2006, 11:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	Plus I notice that Corked gasket material leaks sometimes, so IMHO they should be used mostly for intake accesories like IAC/V, etc.. Rubber ones are ok, as long as you don't tighten the bolts too hard. But using the paper style material and some RTV, works real good, never had a problem with that for oil pans, and valve covers. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

06-07-2006, 07:23 AM	#7 (permalink)
Muddy Oval Otherwise known as STEVE Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vermont Posts: 1,968 Gallery: 0	Make sure you take off all the bolts. Sounds like stupid advice, but people try to pry them off without looking to see if all the bolts are out and mess 'em up ALL the time. I'd make a gasket, personally... but whatever floats your boat. __________________ 2002 Freelander 2000 DII w/CDL 1967 SIIA 109SW Former Rovers 2004 Modded "S" Disco, R.I.P. 2004 G4 Disco 2002 Modded Freelander 1995 Modded Disco 1994 D-90 #8 1993 NAS D110 1990 Range Rover County 1973 SIII 88 1972 Range Rover 2 door

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06-06-2006, 08:00 PM	#3 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,101 Gallery: 0	Make sure you get a paper (cardboard) gasket and not a cork one. The cork ones tend to spread when you tighten up the bolts. Ian

06-06-2006, 08:19 PM	#4 (permalink)
Paul Grant Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT Posts: 914 Gallery: 0	Or you can ditch the gaskets entirely and go with the Right Stuff or black Permatex. I used the Right Stuff on my truck 6K miles ago and the seal has held up well. The key is to get the mating surfaces as clean and dry as possible before applying the sealant.

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