![]() |
![]() |
|
|||||||
| Register | Home | Forum | Active Topics | Gallery | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 73
Gallery:
0
|
1990 classic- on the drivers side of the engine, I hear a 'tapping' or clicking sound, somewhere near the head area. I can't tell if it is an internal engine noise, or the exhaust manifold with a leak. Any common problem this may be? I'm going to have a mechanic take a listen, but thought I'd run it past you guys first.
![]()
__________________
90 Range Rover 'Classic' |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Beautiful British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 124
Gallery:
0
|
Hi Ron,
I have a 91 RRC with exactly the same symptons as you describe! I have been ignoring it for a while but I guess it is time to act!! (getting fed up with people listening to it running & asking, "is that a diesel you have in there?" So I have been told it could be the Rockers (tappits) that need adjusting... but I've also been told that they are hydraulic, self adjusting ?? Has anyone reading this actually fixed "tapping tappits", if so whats the scoop, why do they need adjusting if they are self adjusting??? How do we adjust, self adjusting tappits? Thanks in advance... Andy |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 79
Gallery:
0
|
Hydrolic lifters take up the slack in the valva train using oil fed from your oil pump, like the rest of the engine. Occasionally a lifter can become gummed up or clogged, in which case it fails to "pump up", resulting in a gap that can cause tapping. If this is the case, you may be able to free it up using one of the many oil additives/treatments available for just such a problem. You could also try one of those pre-oil change sludge-remover treaments, as they have solvents in them.
Although I have never replaced any lifters on my RR, I have done it on other vehicles. They all require removing the valve cover, rocker-arm nuts and pushrods, and some require the removal of the intake manifold to remove the lifters. I would suggest just replacing the whole set if you were going to do it. I think a set runs around ~$150, give or take a bit. -Coach |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 265
Gallery:
0
|
My Classic with 190,000 on it never makes this sound except when the cats went; my 4.0 on the other hand when its warm does make some clattering noise--the rover techs said it was the rocker arm, worn down and oil isn't getting through, etc--what has already been said here. Not too bad of a job, I'll do it in the spring.
__________________
Current: 1992 Range Rover County 2000 Land Rover Discovery II Also current: 1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Wagon 2002 Volkswagen Eurovan GLS 1996 Ford Explorer LTD 2WD 1982 Volvo 240 GL Diesel Previous Rover: 1995 Range Rover 4.0SE |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
|
I get this too. But after I run some injector cleaner through her she gets quiet again.
One time it sounded like that and it was just the exhaust had gotten loose. Tightened it back up and sound when bye bye. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 73
Gallery:
0
|
I visually checked the exhaust- looked ok, but it could be coming from where the exhaust manifold connects to the y-pipe-, or at the head itself, I can't tell exactly, but it is in that area that I hear the sound. I'm going to run a bottle of injector cleaner through it, and do the oil- flush stuff when I change oil, see if that frees a sticking lifter, if that is the culprit.
__________________
90 Range Rover 'Classic' |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 37
Gallery:
0
|
Take a good look at the flanges. I chased this for a long time. Look for a reddish discoloration where the flanges that mate to the manifolds meet the pipe. You also want to take note if the ticking is more pronounced at cold or when warm. The best way to diagnose this would be to take a 2'-3' length of small diameter hose and "listen" around the flange using the hose like a stethoscope. That is how I found out my flanges were cracked. The cracks are probably really small. I had mine welded up, with strong discouragement from the shop indicating that the welds wont last long. Oh well, I guess I will find out. Also, a word of wisdom, if you do take the "Y"-pipe off, order up new gaskets and a stud and nut kit. This will make life much simplier, trust me.
--Kris |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Beautiful British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 124
Gallery:
0
|
Hey Thanks guys for all the good feedback, I'm still leaning towards the tappet theory (in my case anyway) The only reason for this is I noticed when I last changed my oil the tapping actually stopped .....then a couple of days later it came back again. I will try the oil treatment thing, let you know in a couple of days how it went,
Ron, let us know if you have any success with your, regards, Andy |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|