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#1 (permalink) |
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ryans ROVER
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 180
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my low oil pressure light has been blinking only when idling...as soon as i accelerate, the light turns off...iv heard this could be the oil pressure sender...but i cant find where it is? i also noticed that when i got my oil changed it was replaced with 10w30 instead of 10w40...im guessing the problem is the oil pressure sender
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ryan mura 1994 range rover county lwb -BIG BLUE 3" coil spring suspension lift -Procomp ES3000 shocks -custom snorkel -glasspack exhaust system -285/75/R16 all terrain tires -old school CB radio from the 80s-cobra -speakers loud enough to set off car alarms -LR3 side air vent |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
Posts: 2,151
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The sender for your low oil pressure idiot light is the single wire sender screwed into the side of the oil pump. It isn't expensive, and easy to change, but don't be surprised if your light still flickers after you change it. Chances are better than not, that if you have over 100K on the clock, that your pump bottom plate is scored where the two gears contact it, allowing oil to bypass.
Parts people are always willing to sell you a new bottom plate, and sometimes con you into thinking you need to replace the whole front cover (since the pump housing is part of the front cover. I have had very good luck resurfacing the bottom plate, using emory paper on a piece of flat granite. Start with 400, then go to finer grit till you have no more signs of scoring. The gears can also wear the inside surface of the pump, but generally, unless oil changes were not done regularly, it is only wear, but not severly scored. Check the gap between the gears and the joint face of the housing. If it is excessive, remove stock from the joint face till you have the correct gap. While you're doing the job, replace the 12 point (12pt, 8mm socket) screws with allen heads. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 289
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Good advice Terry. These rovers have pretty low pressure anyway. I run 15-50 Mobile one in all my rovers but they all have over 145K (my 89 is probably around 300k). I have a pressure gauge on the 89 and it runs at about 10-15 lbs when it is hot and at idle. About 40 or so at revs. Also if youve had any starting or EFI problems you might be putting raw gas into the chamber. I had that happen to me once and my pressure was really low!! I was very worried but once i changed the oil all was fine. Just something to consider Gordo
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Gordo www.floridalandroverclub.com 00 P38 4.6 blinging 92 stocker RRC 73 hybrid wheeler |
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#4 (permalink) |
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ryans ROVER
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 180
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so i bought a new oil pressure sender yesterday and replaced it with the old one and still have my same problem...light blinks when idling
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ryan mura 1994 range rover county lwb -BIG BLUE 3" coil spring suspension lift -Procomp ES3000 shocks -custom snorkel -glasspack exhaust system -285/75/R16 all terrain tires -old school CB radio from the 80s-cobra -speakers loud enough to set off car alarms -LR3 side air vent |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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10w30 is too low in my opinion.
I run 20w50 in my 4.2. My light blinks when I first start her, about 6 times. But after that she goes off. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,325
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Ryan,
Thinking you might want to consider flushing the engine before you start looking at a list of parts. Rovers run rich, they build up carbon and lots of sludge which can restrict the flow of oil thru the pick up tube. Some people have even had to drop the oil pan to clean and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. The other possibilitys are a failed oil pressure sending unit and the oil pump as already mentioned. Good luck, Mike |
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#7 (permalink) |
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ryans ROVER
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 180
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im starting to think the 10w30 is way too low because the oil pressure light starts to blink after the engine gets warm an idling, im guessing because the oil is to thin..im considering trying 20w50, specially since my engine runs so hot
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ryan mura 1994 range rover county lwb -BIG BLUE 3" coil spring suspension lift -Procomp ES3000 shocks -custom snorkel -glasspack exhaust system -285/75/R16 all terrain tires -old school CB radio from the 80s-cobra -speakers loud enough to set off car alarms -LR3 side air vent |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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Low oil pressure is generally caused by the following:
Excessive main and rod bearing clearances. Only 0.001" of extra clearance in the main bearings can reduce oil pressure by up to 20%! Excessive camshaft bearing clearances. Excessive clearances inside the oil pump. Leaks between the oil pump and engine. Oil pump relief valve stuck open or installed backward. A loose or mispositioned oil pickup tube (too high in the oil pan). A defective oil pressure sending unit or oil pressure gauge. Low oil level in the oil pan. Cracks or leaks in the oil galleries or gallery plugs. Cracked oil pump housing (improper installation). Oil viscosity too thin for hot weather. Oil viscosity too thick for cold weather. BTW, do not flush the engine.
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 289
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Quote:
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Gordo www.floridalandroverclub.com 00 P38 4.6 blinging 92 stocker RRC 73 hybrid wheeler |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Series Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Lake district,UK
Posts: 532
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Rover V8s are notorious for low oil pressure the oil light flickering on at idle or even on permanantly at idle is no cause for concern,if the light comes on above idle or at high speed the that is the time to worry.
Its just the way they are ive had ones that run at 40-60 psi when running and ones that cant muster more than 15psi none have ever failed due to low oil pressure and I do put heavy mileage on my motors including towing a 2a trialer. Using fancy oils in an RV8 is a waste of time just use the prescibed oil as recommended by Landrover and you wont go far wrong,dont forget the engine design is nigh on 50 years old it isnt modern technology so dont treat as if it is!!!! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,325
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Ryan,
If you are going to try another oil, kill 2 birds with one stane and flush the engine first. If your engine is gathering sludge it won't help to just change the oil and filter, use a good cleaner first. Mike |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 219
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Ryan,
some good advice here. couple more things i would add: As mileage adds up and engine wear increases bearing clearances, it may be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if an engine originally factory-filled with 5W-30 now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. i would run 10w40 if i were you, it is a good trade off. Good luck.
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Greg M 1987 RRC Rovers haven't made it to the far reaches of the Earth worrying about warning lights. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: St. Croix Valley, MN
Posts: 1,300
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i live in MN and put in 5w-30 and have no problems 57,000 miles on '93 LWB. i have asked many LR owners and they all told me 5w-30?? lucus makes a petroleum-based oil stabilizer to cool engine temps and ect. i have not used it yet, has anyone here used it?
here is the link http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#leaks one good thing is to do, maybe have them or you do a computer check to see if you have any bad sensors before sending $$$ on your rover. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,325
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Quote:
Mike |
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