driving lights on brush bar (hooked up to highbeams)
i have a '93 LWB which has driving lights that are hooked up to high beams (i followed the wires). i bought her last year & did not get to look at the lights (mn winter/ baby). next to the battery there is the water sealed fuse & relay. there is a "copper o-ring wire" that looks like it was hooked around the postive battery side? do i disconnect the negtive and then the postive, then put the "o-ring" around the postive side then reconnect the pos. then neg battery cables? i could summit a photo if i didn't explain this well. thanks for your time.
When you say offroad lights are you referring to rooflights or the ones that are level with the headlamps? If its the latter then they are most likely driving lights. I just finished doing my own wiring for 4 rallye 4K lights using the Hella harnesses made for them. I figured since I wasn't sure which goes with what, meaning rooflights on with low beams or high beams I just went with the low beams for now.
Assuming yours were already installed when you purchased the vehicle. And you say you see a relay with one of the wires appeared to have been previously connected to the positive terminal, I suppose you can do what you suggested earlier. By the way, what color is this wire with the copper loop? Red I suppose? Either way, once you reconnect everything it'll just blow the fuse if you made a mistake. It would help to check the fuse first to see if its intact.
When you say offroad lights are you referring to rooflights or the ones that are level with the headlamps? If its the latter then they are most likely driving lights. I just finished doing my own wiring for 4 rallye 4K lights using the Hella harnesses made for them. I figured since I wasn't sure which goes with what, meaning rooflights on with low beams or high beams I just went with the low beams for now.
Assuming yours were already installed when you purchased the vehicle. And you say you see a relay with one of the wires appeared to have been previously connected to the positive terminal, I suppose you can do what you suggested earlier. By the way, what color is this wire with the copper loop? Red I suppose? Either way, once you reconnect everything it'll just blow the fuse if you made a mistake. It would help to check the fuse first to see if its intact.
they are driving lights (hooked up to brush bar). the fuse looked good, i forget the color wire to the cooper loop. i just bought a new 875cc battery in the winter and did not want to do anything before i got some feed back. i will add a photo tonight. thanks
this is the photo that i took for the question above. i circled the copper ring, does this hook up to the positive terminal (battery)? the yellow wires on the bottom of photo come from the head lights & driving lights. has anyone seen this type of hook up.
is the negative connevted to the chassy or u have the wire running into the compartment too? if it does not have a fuse and u dont know where ur negative is this may be ur nagative coz black wires are generally used for -ive
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-Nikunj
1993 Range Rover Classic LWB
1995 VW JETTA
Check your local laws about how many beams you can have facing forward while on the road. We have a limitation here in Okie Land.
i tried to look for the laws online, but did not find anything for MN on how many beams i could have, i found everything else. the type that i have are highbeam connected, mounted on the brushbars. i tried hooking the copper loop to the poss term. and started the RR up and it did not do anything w/or w/out the highbeams. the copper loop is broken and i thought it might need to get a new one to get a better connection to the battery? the copper loop is connect to a red wire to the fuse, it's black at the end near the loop (someone re-wired to the red and added the black). any other ideas. fun wkend projects.
Why don't you cut the plastic ties so you can unravel the wires. That should give you an idea which is the fused one which is almost always the positive. In your case, w/o cutting the ties it's somewhat obvious that it connects to the terminal below it considering the length of the wire. Unless of course the previous battery was installed with its negative terminal towards the right fender.
Here's an idea, if it was red to begin with why don't you buy like say a foot red wire, a connector and a wire loop and replace the black wire altogether to make it uniform. Make sure you get the same size of wire as the red one not smaller. If you don't know the size, snip a little bit and bing it with you. IMHO, if it is fused, I'd try connecting it now before replacing any connectors wires etc. to see if it even works. It'll only blow the fuse if you did it wrong. Have someone at the controls while you press the connector against the positive terminal (don't handle the connector with your bare hands maybe at part of the wire near it) and have them swithed on to see if they work.
Why don't you cut the plastic ties so you can unravel the wires. That should give you an idea which is the fused one which is almost always the positive. In your case, w/o cutting the ties it's somewhat obvious that it connects to the terminal below it considering the length of the wire. Unless of course the previous battery was installed with its negative terminal towards the right fender.
Here's an idea, if it was red to begin with why don't you buy like say a foot red wire, a connector and a wire loop and replace the black wire altogether to make it uniform. Make sure you get the same size of wire as the red one not smaller. If you don't know the size, snip a little bit and bing it with you. IMHO, if it is fused, I'd try connecting it now before replacing any connectors wires etc. to see if it even works. It'll only blow the fuse if you did it wrong. Have someone at the controls while you press the connector against the positive terminal (don't handle the connector with your bare hands maybe at part of the wire near it) and have them swithed on to see if they work.
thanks for your tips. on sunday i did cut the plastic tie and it is a mess. i am going check the current flow this wkend at my dad's. i was just hopping that they will work, besides buying a pair. thanks again, i will let u know what happens.
one more question, does there need to be a ground wire to make the driving lights work or are they grounded to the headlights? in the photo there is the fuse, then above the fuse there in the connecter/relay, there is a single blue wire that is not connected to anything. does anyone know about that wire. i am guessing that the driving lights came with the gen. brush bar. thanks for all the help.
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
i got the lights to work. alot of the wires were the wrong color. found which one was the ground! it took my dad and i about 30min or so and we did not need to buy any parts.
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
i got the driver lights that r connected to the high beams to work awhile back. it works for along time then the fuse blows, so i thought it might have happened because it was a old fuse that had been in their since i bought the rrc and so i changed it w/ a new one then it blow after along time again. they r the factory ones that (chrome) came w/ the brush bar.
1. does anyone that has a rrc still have there driving lights that r connected to the highbeams?
2. when i bought the rrc it had a 25 fuse in it so i have been using that
same #? is that the right fuse #?
3. could the fuse blow because of a lose wire?
i have a pic above that shows that it is connected to the pos battery term. also when the fuse blow out the 1st time i noticed the lights to flicker just before it blow. i hope i could get some feed back! thanks alot aaron
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
i got the driver lights that r connected to the high beams to work awhile back. it works for along time then the fuse blows, so i thought it might have happened because it was a old fuse that had been in their since i bought the rrc and so i changed it w/ a new one then it blow after along time again. they r the factory ones that (chrome) came w/ the brush bar.
1. does anyone that has a rrc still have there driving lights that r connected to the highbeams?
2. when i bought the rrc it had a 25 fuse in it so i have been using that
same #? is that the right fuse #?
3. could the fuse blow because of a lose wire?
i have a pic above that shows that it is connected to the pos battery term. also when the fuse blow out the 1st time i noticed the lights to flicker just before it blow. i hope i could get some feed back! thanks alot aaron
First of all, it is a federal law regarding the running of any additional lights along with your high beams, and from what I have heard, a real pricey fine so switch them back to your low beams.
Also you will burn out the trucks front wire harness and that isn't a cheap fix.
If you want a little more headlight power, up grade to some of the aftermarket bulbs that can bring you up from 55 watts to 100.
Mike
First of all, it is a federal law regarding the running of any additional lights along with your high beams, and from what I have heard, a real pricey fine so switch them back to your low beams.
Also you will burn out the trucks front wire harness and that isn't a cheap fix.
If you want a little more headlight power, up grade to some of the aftermarket bulbs that can bring you up from 55 watts to 100.
Mike
1st of all it was how the rrc came when the person bought it from the LR dealer and they were never connected to the low beam? my low beam lights r connected to the fog lights and the high beams r connected to the driving lights on the brush guard. when i turn the high beams on my fog lights turn off like all rrc's. i read the mn laws and they did not state anything about extra lights w/ high beams. i will try to find more info. why did LRNA have this option if it is fed law not to have extra lights w/ high beams? also hella sells lights that r connected to your high beams still. how can the front wire harness burn out if this lights r set up w/ the highbeams and it runs direct to the pos battery w/ a rely and fuse? i have seen alot of lr that have this set up.
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
does anyone know laws about driving lights that r hooked up to your highbeams. i tried to look again on the web? mike when i 1st wrote this thread i thought they were called offroad lights. they are the driving lights. i think i confused some members when i wrote this thread. i just read the old replies and the start of this thread.
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1993 RRC, county LWB "bertha"
1991 RRC (dad's), parting out (email me or check out the link below) myroverworld
does anyone know laws about driving lights that r hooked up to your highbeams. i tried to look again on the web? mike when i 1st wrote this thread i thought they were called offroad lights. they are the driving lights. i think i confused some members when i wrote this thread. i just read the old replies and the start of this thread.
Daway~ You know what I would do? I would stop by my local law enforcement office and see what they say. Maybe the State Police (State Troopers), or a local Police Department, or maybe the DMV will have a booklet of rules and regulations for MN. Take the truck with you of course, this way you can show them exactly what you are dealing with.
OkieRover is correct. Oklahoma State law requires that "Off-Road Lights" have a cover over them. This law is very rarely enforced nevertheless if and when a Police Officer decides to enforce it the fine can often be VERY hefty!
Another resource is the Minnesota State Patrol's Information Desk which is available to answer questions at 651/297-3935.
Also just to be safe, I might get it in writing! When they give you an answer. Lastly, do you have vehicle inspections in your state? If so, I would stop by one of the certified Sate Inspection places (usually an automotive shop, Tire Store, ect) and ask them as well.
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2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red
2002 D2 4 SALE
2001 D2 CDL 1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired) 1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)
driving lights on brush bar (hooked up to highbeams)
Linear Mode
